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> Uncharted Territory, Clutch Replacement
loco914
post Apr 21 2018, 09:13 PM
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First engine/tranny drop was successful.
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Pulled the clutch and found this...
Attached Image
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The adventure begins...
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GeorgeRud
post Apr 21 2018, 10:18 PM
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I think you got your money’s worth out of those parts as the pressure plate definitely is worn out and the springs gave up in the clutch plate. Don’t forget to take the chance to clean the engine compartment and engine while it’s out as it’s a lot easier than when it’s installed.
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porschetub
post Apr 22 2018, 02:04 AM
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That's messy,don't often see a disk do that,have found weak loose springs before takes a bit for them to break away like that,any damage to the inside of the flywheel?.
Judging by the wear on the pressure plate I would say its on its second (and last) life,make sure you carefully inspect/measure flywheel to make sure it is suitable for resurfacing,post a pic of it that would help,good luck.
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Porschef
post Apr 22 2018, 06:23 AM
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Throw in some SS fuel lines while the engine's out.
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loco914
post Apr 22 2018, 12:12 PM
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Here’s the flywheel. Plan to remove and have it checked out.
Attached Image

Other progress today:
Attached Image


Learning that engine tin screws can be quite stubborn (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)
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loco914
post Apr 22 2018, 12:41 PM
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Thy wheels have left the rail...
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Just don’t understand why it would run hot.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

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98101
post Apr 22 2018, 01:42 PM
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Going to do my clutch (pushrod tube seals, rear main seal) also. I'm learning a lot from these photos.

Best to drop the engine too?
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loco914
post Apr 22 2018, 03:59 PM
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QUOTE(98101 @ Apr 22 2018, 02:42 PM) *

Going to do my clutch (pushrod tube seals, rear main seal) also. I'm learning a lot from these photos.

Best to drop the engine too?


I dont know if it’s best or not as I figured on pulling both to check a few things out.
(aka risk falling into the “while I’m in there” rabbit hole)

SS fuel lines
Find where all this oil is coming from
Clean and powder coat tin


Glad I did, hope to get it good and clean. Maybe air will actually move thru the thing an it will run cooler.
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loco914
post Apr 22 2018, 05:04 PM
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Ok. This is hopefully as far as I will go.

Attached Image



Having trouble confirming the source of all the oil on top as it is literally everywhere. Possibly coming from loose vacuum connections?
Leak on the bottom is from my arch nemesis the taco plate. Pushrod tubes seem to be holding their own.


Looking for thoughts on how best to clean all the crap off and out of the fins??

Can the oil cooler be cleaned or is it a lost cause?

Thanks.
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rgalla9146
post Apr 22 2018, 05:30 PM
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QUOTE(loco914 @ Apr 22 2018, 07:04 PM) *

Ok. This is hopefully as far as I will go.

Attached Image



Having trouble confirming the source of all the oil on top as it is literally everywhere. Possibly coming from loose vacuum connections?
Leak on the bottom is from my arch nemesis the taco plate. Pushrod tubes seem to be holding their own.


Looking for thoughts on how best to clean all the crap off and out of the fins??

Can the oil cooler be cleaned or is it a lost cause?

Thanks.


Some oil is over the tin, some under.
I'd do OP switch, every seal on the oil filler tower and check the seals on the
cooler.
Make sure your crankcase is vented properly.
Get the cheapest piece of 4' x 8' plywood and a gallon of mineral spirits
and get busy with any brush you can find. The filth will transfer from the engine
onto you.
Find some plugs for the cooler and wash it with mineral spirits, it will come clean.
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nditiz1
post Apr 22 2018, 05:38 PM
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Not trying to hijack, but can someone tell me how my clutch looks? Do I need to replace? Also flywheel?

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/farm1.staticflickr.com-18763-1524440307.1.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/farm1.staticflickr.com-18763-1524440307.2.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/farm1.staticflickr.com-18763-1524440307.3.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/farm1.staticflickr.com-18763-1524440308.4.jpg)
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porschetub
post Apr 22 2018, 06:00 PM
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QUOTE(loco914 @ Apr 23 2018, 06:12 AM) *

Here’s the flywheel. Plan to remove and have it checked out.
Attached Image



Learning that engine tin screws can be quite stubborn (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)


Ok flywheel appears ok,any ridges you can feel on the surface with your fingernail generally means it will need to be refaced if still in spec.
You can hit on the top the engine tin screws with a hammer and punch then use an impact tool on them ,if the slots are chewed out use some visegrips on them as a final solution.
To clean the long block completely seal off the inlet/exhaust ports ,etc,buy lots of decreaser and brush it on with a wash brush,let it soak it then hose or waterblast off.
If it was my engine I would take the cooler off after you have cleaned the block and have it ultrasonically cleaned,they get really dirty inside also.
Do all seals on the engine "while in there" you will thank yourself later (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) .
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IronHillRestorations
post Apr 22 2018, 07:16 PM
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You are going to run much cooler with all the motor smeg cleaned off.

If you pull the flywheel make sure you use a Sabo seal. Don't score the seal bore or you can make an oil leak.

You want a full flywheel package and replace the pilot bearing and felt washer too.

The plate under the flywheel bolts is a one and done, so make sure you get one of those too.
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loco914
post Apr 22 2018, 09:42 PM
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Thanks for all the tips! Keep them coming. It may be a couple of weeks before I get some free time to work on it, but will post on any progress.
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Dr Evil
post Apr 23 2018, 09:02 AM
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Don't forget the TOB and to see if you need to change the input seal to the trans since you are right there. Might as well check the output flange seals as well. The hard part has been done.
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Andyrew
post Apr 23 2018, 11:55 AM
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Spooling.... Please wait
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QUOTE(nditiz1 @ Apr 22 2018, 04:38 PM) *

Looks almost new.

Steel wool the flywheel and pressure plate to remove rust on the friction surfaces, and brake clean on the clutch disk.
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loco914
post May 5 2018, 06:55 PM
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A little progress last night and today. Got the muck off all the engine tin and got some pieces blasted. Using medium glass beads and it seems to work well.

Attached Image

Thinking about painting the impeller housing any thoughts? Still a ways away as it doesn’t want to let go of 44 years of crap. Could blast as well, but figure it is too soft for glass. Would walnut shell media be good for this? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

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porschetub
post May 5 2018, 11:56 PM
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A good clean on the housing you will be good,if you really prefer paint you have to clean more,total clean after prep with paint pre cleaner,heat it up a bit then apply etch primer let that dry for while (slow to dry) and apply few coats of Plasticote high temp wheel silver,its kind off a a mid gloss and looks great.
Get that shortblock cleaned right up,you have a nice looking car it all needs to be back in the engine bay ASAP (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)
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Amphicar770
post May 6 2018, 09:30 AM
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Fun stuff. Did mine about a year ago.

There are 1-tins that sit right against cylinders. Use high temp paint on those as powder coat could melt.

If you get flywheel resurfaced, have them tell you how much they took off so you can use washers to adjust ball cup.

One thing missed is gasket between oil filter mount and engine. If course that is where I have some seeping.

Lots of good threads to follow including my own. People here are great at answwering questions as you go along.

BTW, I replaced all if the awful cheese head tin screws with stainless he screws.

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Amphicar770
post May 6 2018, 09:53 AM
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Regarding oil cooler. They are not expensive. I got new one at busdepot.com (I went with genuine be part, they also sell aftermarket).

Here is my housing cleaned up and painted with Eastwood alumablast.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=279204&hl=
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