No Start, 1972 914 will not start |
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No Start, 1972 914 will not start |
Mike1981 |
May 13 2018, 08:13 AM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 212 Joined: 21-July 14 From: Detroit MI Member No.: 17,663 Region Association: Southern California |
Hello teeners
Looking for some advice please I have a 72 V8 conversion (I Know not a real 14) Really fun to drive I just tried to start it and I do get power to dash and radio but the fule pump cuts out and no crank when I turn the key to the full starting position. The 2 things I have notice 1 Battery was low (Now Charging) 2 No cranking no clicking nothing. 3 Fuel pump cuts out 4 flashers tied to the e-brake keep flashing could it be the e-brake sensor? Clutch sensor/switch? Starter? ignition switch? Checked all relays and fuses I can find All seem good. Thanks Mike |
Mike1981 |
May 20 2018, 06:11 PM
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#2
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Member Group: Members Posts: 212 Joined: 21-July 14 From: Detroit MI Member No.: 17,663 Region Association: Southern California |
OK Had an Idea.
I disconnected the 14 pin harness jambed a wire into pin 1 crimped on a spade connector and stuck it onto the S terminal on the starter. When I turned the key the starter cranked! However I noticed the fuel pump was not humming and I believe there is one relay that controls the fuelpump on this board. Is this the case? |
jcd914 |
May 20 2018, 11:28 PM
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#3
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,081 Joined: 7-February 08 From: Sacramento, CA Member No.: 8,684 Region Association: Northern California |
OK Had an Idea. I disconnected the 14 pin harness jambed a wire into pin 1 crimped on a spade connector and stuck it onto the S terminal on the starter. When I turned the key the starter cranked! However I noticed the fuel pump was not humming and I believe there is one relay that controls the fuelpump on this board. Is this the case? DISCLAIMER: When I wrote this I forgot the car was a V8 conversion, so my testing recommendations are following the stock wire configuration and there may have been changes made during the conversion that make the circuits different. This was a good test. It show the circuit from the battery to the ignition switch and back to the 14 pin connector works. Now you need to figure out why power stops there. Since you disconnected the 14 pin connector for this test the fuel pump won't run. As another quick test you could hook the starter back up as normal, yellow wire to the S terminal. Then take and unplug both the 12 pin and the 14 pin and make a jumper wire to go from T1 of the T14 connector to T6 of the T12 connector and then crank it from the key. This would bypass the relay board. If this works the engine will crank over but it won't start since the T12 and T14 connector are disconnected. Have you verified that the yellow wire is in position 6 on the T12 connector? Have you checked over the relay board? Take out out and turn it over, what does it look like? Jim |
Mike1981 |
May 22 2018, 06:58 PM
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#4
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Member Group: Members Posts: 212 Joined: 21-July 14 From: Detroit MI Member No.: 17,663 Region Association: Southern California |
OK Had an Idea. I disconnected the 14 pin harness jambed a wire into pin 1 crimped on a spade connector and stuck it onto the S terminal on the starter. When I turned the key the starter cranked! However I noticed the fuel pump was not humming and I believe there is one relay that controls the fuelpump on this board. Is this the case? DISCLAIMER: When I wrote this I forgot the car was a V8 conversion, so my testing recommendations are following the stock wire configuration and there may have been changes made during the conversion that make the circuits different. This was a good test. It show the circuit from the battery to the ignition switch and back to the 14 pin connector works. Now you need to figure out why power stops there. Since you disconnected the 14 pin connector for this test the fuel pump won't run. As another quick test you could hook the starter back up as normal, yellow wire to the S terminal. Then take and unplug both the 12 pin and the 14 pin and make a jumper wire to go from T1 of the T14 connector to T6 of the T12 connector and then crank it from the key. This would bypass the relay board. If this works the engine will crank over but it won't start since the T12 and T14 connector are disconnected. Have you verified that the yellow wire is in position 6 on the T12 connector? Have you checked over the relay board? Take out out and turn it over, what does it look like? Jim Hello Jim Took Our relay board Removed black backing All Traces looked good to me and ohmed out Going to keep testing board Any Suggestions?? https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=225...e=3&theater |
jcd914 |
May 22 2018, 11:06 PM
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#5
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,081 Joined: 7-February 08 From: Sacramento, CA Member No.: 8,684 Region Association: Northern California |
OK Had an Idea. I disconnected the 14 pin harness jambed a wire into pin 1 crimped on a spade connector and stuck it onto the S terminal on the starter. When I turned the key the starter cranked! However I noticed the fuel pump was not humming and I believe there is one relay that controls the fuelpump on this board. Is this the case? DISCLAIMER: When I wrote this I forgot the car was a V8 conversion, so my testing recommendations are following the stock wire configuration and there may have been changes made during the conversion that make the circuits different. This was a good test. It show the circuit from the battery to the ignition switch and back to the 14 pin connector works. Now you need to figure out why power stops there. Since you disconnected the 14 pin connector for this test the fuel pump won't run. As another quick test you could hook the starter back up as normal, yellow wire to the S terminal. Then take and unplug both the 12 pin and the 14 pin and make a jumper wire to go from T1 of the T14 connector to T6 of the T12 connector and then crank it from the key. This would bypass the relay board. If this works the engine will crank over but it won't start since the T12 and T14 connector are disconnected. Have you verified that the yellow wire is in position 6 on the T12 connector? Have you checked over the relay board? Take out out and turn it over, what does it look like? Jim Hello Jim Took Our relay board Removed black backing All Traces looked good to me and ohmed out Going to keep testing board Any Suggestions?? https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=225...e=3&theater Since your earlier test (jumper from T1 to the starter) showed power from the ignition switch to the wire at T1 of the T14 connector, I would be looking at the rest of the circuit. My next step might be to swap in a different relay panel but I have at least 3 of them that I know if. Did you try jumping from T1 if the T14 connector to T6 of the T12 connectors? Did the starter cranks? You can also jump power from the battery directly to T6/T14 and see if it cranks. If it does I would then plug in T12 and unplug T14 and jump from the battery to T1/T14 on the fuse panel, this would test power flow through the panel. On the fuse/relay panel traces, the traces all run on the bottom and if fried you can see it but they all connect to the pins and connectors going to the relays and connectors on top of the board. It is the connections from the traces to the connectors that are problematic. Corrosion or a loose connection can show good with and ohm meter but still not be able to carry the load of the circuit. I don't know how many amps a starter solenoid draws bur it is significant. Jim |
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