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> Fuel evaporation?
JFG
post Jun 11 2018, 01:07 PM
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I'm running twin 40's, previously listed and agreed ok. When my engine is hot (thermostat open) the engine struggles and dies.

I thought could be crap in tank / filter but have checked and replaced with no change.

As this happens only when hot could this be fuel evaporation due to manifolds being to hot on the head?
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SirAndy
post Jun 11 2018, 01:19 PM
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QUOTE(JFG @ Jun 11 2018, 12:07 PM) *
As this happens only when hot could this be fuel evaporation due to manifolds being to hot on the head?

Yes, it could be.

Are you running the phenolic (sp?) spacers/insulators between the intake manifolds and the heads?
They are important in keeping the manifolds (and carbs) cooler.

Also a good idea to utilize the return line to the tank to keep the gasoline moving. A lot of people plug it when they convert to carbs but moving fuel is less likely to boil in the float bowls.
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JFG
post Jun 11 2018, 01:34 PM
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I have the manifold fitted to head with only a gasket.

A quick search shows up spacers from 3 to 9mm. What should I be looking at? Too far and that may cause linkage issues on the csp bellcrank linkage.

No return so I may get a knock on from the bowls but I'll rule out one thing at a time.

These are an example

https://www.dellorto.co.uk/shop/weber-carbu...nsulator-plate/
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SirAndy
post Jun 11 2018, 02:09 PM
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QUOTE(JFG @ Jun 11 2018, 12:34 PM) *

I have the manifold fitted to head with only a gasket.

A quick search shows up spacers from 3 to 9mm. What should I be looking at? Too far and that may cause linkage issues on the csp bellcrank linkage.

No return so I may get a knock on from the bowls but I'll rule out one thing at a time.

These are an example

https://www.dellorto.co.uk/shop/weber-carbu...nsulator-plate/

The phenolic spacers are the ones that came stock on our engines with the fuel injection and insulate the runners from the heads.

Last i checked (it's been a few years) they were still readily available from all the usual sources.

I used them on my carbed 2056 and it made a big difference ...
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SirAndy
post Jun 11 2018, 02:25 PM
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They look like this and go between the head and the bottom of the intake runners, they are several mm thick:

PS: I used a thin film of sealant on both sides, not sure if that is needed but it seemed like a good idea at the time


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JFG
post Aug 31 2018, 11:52 AM
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after having properly driven the car the other day on a 6 mile loop i just about limped back onto the drive.

i have the spacers fitted at the bottom of the manifolds but i think it's not enough and i still have the same problem.

the car runs like a dream when cold and warming up but the driven heat seems too much.

i'm going to fit a return pipe back to the tank and hopefully that will cure the issue.

now i need to look at how to fit (in a tidy way) the return pipes in the engine bay.
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falcor75
post Aug 31 2018, 12:28 PM
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Also how old is your coil? it was discussed in another thread with the same symptoms...
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JFG
post Aug 31 2018, 01:08 PM
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the coil was new with the distributor about a year ago. i touched it to see if it overheated but wasn't very hot.
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914forme
post Sep 1 2018, 11:14 AM
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It seems to me that your jetting might be a bit off. All my Type-4s with carbs coughed , sputtered and spit when warming up then ran like champ one at temperature.

I am no carb expert to let you know. But your symptoms seem odd to me. That is why the -6 has a hand throttle to let them warm up.

Ignition is a possibility check you plug heat range as I got the parts counter guy slipped me the wrong ones once and it cost me a head.
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