1970 914 project Options

[mgp4591]

that Fitech efi setup looks sweet. i'm gonna run rams horns instead of shorty headers.

according to this video, rams horns are fine to 5200 rpm.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qe9ke0rQlT8

They make ram horns that have a 2 1/2" outlet that's probably more flow than you'd need - they came with the high hp Corvette smallblocks. The small valve heads will get you to that 5200 rpm that the ram horns are good to without a problem. It sounds like a good combination all around.

[dan10101]

I had a built 283 in a flat bottom boat. It had double hump heads, 10-1 compression, Duntov 30/30 cam, alum manifold and Holley 600. I suspect somewhere around 250-280hp. It moved it really good, but wouldn't idle for beans. Really tough to idle in a 5mph zone with 1000rpms and direct drive.

[Chris914n6]

FYI - Summit Racing has/had the FiTech on a pretty good sale for Christmas.

[jimkelly]

turns out these guys offer a 283 crate engine.

https://www.fivestarengines.com/shop/chevy-...d-crate-engine/

Q- can you advise what compression cam pistons crank bore etc etc
thanks
jim

A- "The compression ratio is 9.5:1 (good for pump gas). The pistons are a flat top design. The crank is a re-machined GM 283 crank with all new bearings and computer balanced. Every block is bored oversize and over 90% are .030 (first cut). The cam is a new Comp Cams high energy camshaft with .454 lift and 268 duration. Thank you for your interest. Chris. 623-939-0345"

and

Q- chris, so do they have powerpack heads? do you recommend 600 cfm 4 barrel carb? what horsepower and torque do you expect? thanks again, jim

A- "We do offer the powerpack heads and install 1.94 intake and 1.50 exhaust valves. We do recommend a 600 cfm four barrel carb. The peak HP is 280 at 5000 rpm. Thanks again, Chris."

AND A TIP FROM TOMREV TO ME SOME TIME AGO.

"Stick with a mild cam, add the roller tip steel rockers, like I did, (around $90. a set), small carb, 500 to 600 cfm, headers like mine, but with 2 1/4 in. dia. exhaust pipes, HEI type dist. (mine is MSD, very nice, but $300.), maybe lighten the flywheel some. The 283 is a sweetheart, and with the smaller port aluminum heads ($1100.) from Trickflow really runs nice. Have fun with your build!"

[1970-1914]

I will disassemble the 283 shortblock I bought and see if I can determine what cam is in it and maybe replace with something more appropriate for higher rpm? From the pics I have it looks like a stock type piston. Possibly worthwhile to go with a slightly higher compression piston set while apart. Won’t really know till after it gets inspected.

[jimkelly]

i don't know if you ever plan on getting stuck in heavy traffic but i think a less wild engine is probably better for traffic.

especially if you'll be using stock transaxle and avoiding the use of 1st gear, as most do.

2nd gear in stop and go traffic sucks, as it doesnt work well for sub 10-15 mph speeds.

probably would suck much more with a hotter cam and a bunch of compression?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

[1970-1914]

So as the " low-buck v8 outlaw" thread title says suggests... this car is being built on a very low budget and will be a V8. If you have read much before this post most of what is going to happen with this build has been detailed.... so what does this low budget look like and how am I doing?

My goal is to be all built and painted with +/- 250hp for around $5500-$6000.

This is only vaguely possible because the shell purchase was such a ridiculously good deal and I will be doing the remaining fab work, bodywork, paint and assembly myself. Quite honestly that is all the fun stuff for me anyway so looking forward to all that.

Starting with a shell that was media blasted, all rust work done, chassis reinforcements welded in, epoxy primed and the complete underneath painted is a really really big head start in time and money.

Costs so far:

Shell and parts purchased for $1800

Parts sold off:

Riviera wheels - $200
Stock 1.7 - $700
Misc efi parts - $200
Fender lip cut offs - $100
Stock steering wheel - $250

Total cost for shell: $350 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Parts bought:

Chrome cookie cutter rims - $500 then decided 6" wide was too skinny for the front and re-sold for $700. Bought second painted black set with tires for $250 so current wheels in total were $50.
VB adapter, flywheel, pressure plate and disc - $130
Power pack heads - $50
Intake and HEI distributor - $30
283 Shortblock - $200
2 new 914rubber bumper tops black Friday deal - $470
Front and rear stock used valences - $100
Dash frame and gauges (missing when i bought the shell) - $150
Heater control - $50
Wiper motor and arms - $30
Momo wheel and Luisi early adapter - $150
5 bolt rear conversion (new discs, redrilled early hubs, new wheel bearings and 20mm spacers) $350
Front 5 bolt adapters - for now - $90
Flared FG rockers - $250

All in cost so far: $2094

So right now I have a mostly complete rust free V8 914 for $2100 which I think is a pretty great place to be at this point in the build. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)


Still to buy:

Rad and cooling parts - $750
Windshield - $250
Misc v8 parts including headers and exhaust tubing/muffler - $750
Carb or efi set-up - $800
Misc interior parts (carpet, door panel recovering etc) - $500
Paint supplies - $500

Still needed: $3550


Target total cost: $5650

I'll be quite happy if that number jumps up another $1000 or so with the upgrading of the front suspension and brakes. I kind of see that as a phase 2 project after the car is up and running. If I go regular headers and carb instead of the 180* headers and efi it will shave about $1000 off the total. Also I think I can do better than budgeted on the cooling system if the right deals come up.

I would have loved to have gone with a 911 6 motor of some sort but the price point even for a pos core motor and install parts would exceed my projected total budget easily and still would have needed rebuilding $$$$.

[mobymutt]

Nice!

I'm probably close to your build price, and I have a rusty shell, and some crappy 1.7 I just bought off somebody. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[1970-1914]

Haha nice.

Have you gone any deeper disassembling the motor or are you just going to put the heads back on and run it?

Pierre

Nice!

I'm probably close to your build price, and I have a rusty shell, and some crappy 1.7 I just bought off somebody. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[jimkelly]

i had bad drone at about 2000 rpm with dual exhaust and shitty mufflers. once i changed to magnaflow mufflers, the drone went away, but some say a crossover pipe is a good idea.

and that fitech looks sweeeeet but you can save $500+- in the short term by using a carb BUT i wonder what kind of fuel economy improvement FI will give on a 283 in the long run?

lastly, the guy i got my 283 from advised me to add a zinc additive to my fuel and modern gas is unleaded and the 283 prefers leaded gas. something about wipping out the cam.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Zj0RMPKquw

[mobymutt]

Just gonna put the heads back on and run it!

Haha nice.

Have you gone any deeper disassembling the motor or are you just going to put the heads back on and run it?

Pierre

Nice!

I'm probably close to your build price, and I have a rusty shell, and some crappy 1.7 I just bought off somebody. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[1970-1914]

I picked up a nice set of doors today from Rich at 914 Werke - I was just really looking for a passenger door but I decided to update both for the newer style window regulators and crash bars. I can see the value in that as I was t boned in my 1971 years ago and it destroyed the side of the whole car - windshield out and the targa top went flying into the ditch.



And here is the 283 short block (- the camshaft).

[Tdskip]

So as the " low-buck v8 outlaw" thread title says suggests... this car is being built on a very low budget and will be a V8. If you have read much before this post most of what is going to happen with this build has been detailed.... so what does this low budget look like and how am I doing?

My goal is to be all built and painted with +/- 250hp for around $5500-$6000.

This is only vaguely possible because the shell purchase was such a ridiculously good deal and I will be doing the remaining fab work, bodywork, paint and assembly myself. Quite honestly that is all the fun stuff for me anyway so looking forward to …all that.

Starting with a shell that was media blasted, all rust work done, chassis reinforcements welded in, epoxy primed and the complete underneath painted is a really really big head start in time and money.

Costs so far:

Shell and parts purchased for $1800

Parts sold off:

Riviera wheels - $200
Stock 1.7 - $700
Misc efi parts - $200
Fender lip cut offs - $100
Stock steering wheel - $250

Total cost for shell: $350 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Parts bought:

Chrome cookie cutter rims - $500 then decided 6" wide was too skinny for the front and re-sold for $700. Bought second painted black set with tires for $250 so current wheels in total were $50.
VB adapter, flywheel, pressure plate and disc - $130
Power pack heads - $50
Intake and HEI distributor - $30
283 Shortblock - $200
2 new 914rubber bumper tops black Friday deal - $470
Front and rear stock used valences - $100
Dash frame and gauges (missing when i bought the shell) - $150
Heater control - $50
Wiper motor and arms - $30
Momo wheel and Luisi early adapter - $150
5 bolt rear conversion (new discs, redrilled early hubs, new wheel bearings and 20mm spacers) $350
Front 5 bolt adapters - for now - $90
Flared FG rockers - $250

All in cost so far: $2094

So right now I have a mostly complete rust free V8 914 for $2100 which I think is a pretty great place to be at this point in the build. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)


Still to buy:

Rad and cooling parts - $750
Windshield - $250
Misc v8 parts including headers and exhaust tubing/muffler - $750
Carb or efi set-up - $800
Misc interior parts (carpet, door panel recovering etc) - $500
Paint supplies - $500

Still needed: $3550


Target total cost: $5650

I'll be quite happy if that number jumps up another $1000 or so with the upgrading of the front suspension and brakes. I kind of see that as a phase 2 project after the car is up and running. If I go regular headers and carb instead of the 180* headers and efi it will shave about $1000 off the total. Also I think I can do better than budgeted on the cooling system if the right deals come up.

I would have loved to have gone with a 911 6 motor of some sort but the price point even for a pos core motor and install parts would exceed my projected total mibudget easily and still would have needed rebuilding $$$$.

Wow, well done.

Maybe I need to put you in charge of my budgets.

Mild cam for street use is a VERY good idea.

[1970-1914]

Motor is apart - had a later 283 cast crank and not a forged one which was a bit of a disappointment.




The block is still the standard bore which is pretty good for a 55 yr old engine. Of course 7 of the 8 cylinders look like they would clean up well with just a honing.... the other cylinder may be too rusty (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

[1970-1914]

In other more exciting news I found a much better dash pad for the car (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

[1970-1914]

I will be taking the block in to get hot tanked and mag'd in the next couple of weeks. If decent it will be getting bored .030 over and new cam bearings pressed in.

The shop I am using has a great history of building winning circle track, race boat and drag motors here in Vancouver. It is going to be a fairly simple build with a factory forged 3" crank, scat rods and metric ring pistons. Cam wise I will likely leave that up to him - he is aware of what I want out of this motor.

I will be turning my focus back to the body and paint side of this project for a while.

[1970-1914]

Thanks to Bob Burton and Jim Kelly for getting me some v8 mount measurements.

I was able to whip up this engine mount bar - just have to bring it in to work to mill the holes at each end for the bolt holes. There will be pipe sections going through the holes vertically to provide the right height spacing.

[1970-1914]

And now with the bar milled precisely for the end pipes. They are not cut down to the correct height and welded yet. Thinking I will put the motor in the car before I finalize that.

[djway]

Could you share the measurements?

[1970-1914]

Could you share the measurements?

I will post a drawing with all dimensions once I have it mounted in the car and ensure everything is correct.

Pierre