Home  |  Forums  |  914 Info  |  Blogs
 
914World.com - The fastest growing online 914 community!
 
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG. This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way.
Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners.
 

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

 
Reply to this topicStart new topic
> Thermostat Cable, It's off the pulley
Jackba
post Jul 13 2018, 05:02 PM
Post #1


Newbie
*

Group: Members
Posts: 40
Joined: 13-July 18
From: Sacramento
Member No.: 22,308
Region Association: Northern California



I was under my '74 2.0 and noticed that the thin cable that connects to the thermostat is no longer on the pulley. I live in a warm climate and my car has never been hard to start in any weather. Is it important to have tension on the cable in a warm climate? Or will the engine run hotter?
Appreciate help from the experts.
Jack
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Dave_Darling
post Jul 13 2018, 05:17 PM
Post #2


914 Idiot
**********

Group: Members
Posts: 14,981
Joined: 9-January 03
From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona
Member No.: 121
Region Association: Northern California



If there's no tension on the cable, it is more or less the same as if the cable is broken. The spring-loaded flaps will default to the "maximum cooling" position, and it will take longer for your engine to come up to operating temperature.

--DD
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
BeatNavy
post Jul 13 2018, 05:19 PM
Post #3


Certified Professional Scapegoat
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,924
Joined: 26-February 14
From: Easton, MD
Member No.: 17,042
Region Association: MidAtlantic Region



In a stock setup if the cable is not under tension you will be in "full cooling mode." The springs on the air flaps should push it to full open.

BUT...you really should run with the thermostat and cooling system in place. Leaving it like it is will result in the engine not coming up to temperature as quickly as it should, and that means more engine wear, and less efficient operation.

You've got all the pieces it sounds like. It's not that hard to hook it back up! Easiest way is to put heat gun on it, let the thermostat expand all the way, then take the slack out of the cable and secure it up top where it connects on top of the shroud.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Chip
post Jul 13 2018, 05:57 PM
Post #4


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 125
Joined: 1-April 17
From: Brigham City, UT
Member No.: 20,986
Region Association: Intermountain Region



QUOTE(BeatNavy @ Jul 13 2018, 05:19 PM) *

In a stock setup if the cable is not under tension you will be in "full cooling mode." The springs on the air flaps should push it to full open.

BUT...you really should run with the thermostat and cooling system in place. Leaving it like it is will result in the engine not coming up to temperature as quickly as it should, and that means more engine wear, and less efficient operation.

You've got all the pieces it sounds like. It's not that hard to hook it back up! Easiest way is to put heat gun on it, let the thermostat expand all the way, then take the slack out of the cable and secure it up top where it connects on top of the shroud.



Is there anything too complex for this forum? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/type.gif) java script:emoticon(':type:','smid_57')
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Jackba
post Jul 13 2018, 11:07 PM
Post #5


Newbie
*

Group: Members
Posts: 40
Joined: 13-July 18
From: Sacramento
Member No.: 22,308
Region Association: Northern California



QUOTE(Chip @ Jul 13 2018, 06:57 PM) *

QUOTE(BeatNavy @ Jul 13 2018, 05:19 PM) *

In a stock setup if the cable is not under tension you will be in "full cooling mode." The springs on the air flaps should push it to full open.

BUT...you really should run with the thermostat and cooling system in place. Leaving it like it is will result in the engine not coming up to temperature as quickly as it should, and that means more engine wear, and less efficient operation.

You've got all the pieces it sounds like. It's not that hard to hook it back up! Easiest way is to put heat gun on it, let the thermostat expand all the way, then take the slack out of the cable and secure it up top where it connects on top of the shroud.



Is there anything too complex for this forum? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/type.gif) java script:emoticon(':type:','smid_57')

What a great suggestion to use a heat gun! I'll do it!
Thank you.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
iankarr
post Jul 14 2018, 07:40 AM
Post #6


The wrencher formerly known as Cuddy_K
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,472
Joined: 22-May 15
From: Heber City, UT
Member No.: 18,749
Region Association: Intermountain Region



Here's the heat gun doing it's magic in-action

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WFrcKSB-oUM

What I'm not sure about is if the heat gun gets the thermostat to extend further than than the engine would. When my cable came off the pulley I loosened the set screw on the vanes and got it back on the pulley. Then drove the car for 30 minutes (so the thermostat was in its full "normal" extension), then pulled the cable so it was juuuussst barely tight on the vane without pulling it (so the flaps were in full cooling position). When the engine cooled I checked and saw that the vane was pulled back as it should.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post

Reply to this topicStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 



- Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 3rd May 2024 - 03:17 PM