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> Time to start the SIX...
ArtechnikA
post Jun 17 2005, 08:37 PM
Post #21


rich herzog
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QUOTE (Kerrys914 @ Jun 17 2005, 09:31 PM)
The power light on the Hi-6 lights but it doesn't blink

mine doesn't blink with the cap off - i think sunlight overwhelms the sensor. works fine when all buttoned up. i use a DVM to do static timing. PITA but you only hafta do it once. i have all the Crane/HI-6 documentation if you want to compare notes...

yes on the 2 sealing washers on the cam lines...
are you using the restrictors or the originals?
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Kerrys914
post Jun 18 2005, 06:18 AM
Post #22


Dear, the parts I just sold paid for that part ;)
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Thanks..

the oil lines are OEM. I used some elbow grease on the cam feed lines and it seemed to stop the leak/drip.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)
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Kerrys914
post Jun 18 2005, 06:52 PM
Post #23


Dear, the parts I just sold paid for that part ;)
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(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif) Since I have some down time now (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif)

I was looking at my exhaust (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif)

Should the end of the headers be inline (or close) to the end of the tranny?

It seems the 914-6 headers are shorter then the the 2.0L heat exchangers??

I have a triad and the flanges are not deep enough to clear the tranny? I need a 6-8" piece to go between the headers and the Triad (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif) Wonder if I can get this piece at a FLAPS?

Cheers
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Trekkor
post Jun 18 2005, 07:18 PM
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You just want to run the motor on the test bench, right?

You don't need the CDI at this point to do that.

12v to the + coil.
condensor wire to the -.

Start it, please... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)

KT
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Kerrys914
post Jun 19 2005, 07:34 AM
Post #25


Dear, the parts I just sold paid for that part ;)
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???KT?????

I don't need a CDI?? Details Why is a CDI used on a SIX and not the four?

I am just running the engine out of the car to get it tuned and somewhat set up.

I have an XR 700 installed so are you saying I can hook up the engine like a 4 would be?

I am calling crane, on Monday, to see if they work on teh HI-6 units and if it would be cheeper to have it rebuilt by them to to buy a new one.
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ArtechnikA
post Jun 19 2005, 08:57 AM
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QUOTE (Kerrys914 @ Jun 19 2005, 09:34 AM)
I don't need a CDI?? Details Why is a CDI used on a SIX and not the four?

911's didn't get CDI until 1969. you don't need it just to start an engine on a test stand. yes, you can use standard Kettering Battery-condenser ignition just like every 911 from 1965-1968.

Kettering ignition runs out of energy at high engine speeds, and as engine performance increased, plug heat ranges got colder, and 911's started running richer for performance, and plugs started fouling. CDI is A Good Thing - but it is not a necessary thing to simply start and dial in a stand-alone engine.
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Trekkor
post Jun 19 2005, 09:12 AM
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I didn't add the MSD 6AL ignitition until after the motor had been in the car for some time.

It is highly recommended, as it will smooth out the idle and improve cold starting. ( day and night )
Acceleration is greatly improved, due to the ability to run a big spark plug gap and the rev limiter is the bonus...

Do you still have my bench test wire harness picture?
$5 set-up. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)

KT


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scotty914
post Jun 19 2005, 11:43 AM
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you all keep basturdizing my wonderful perfect home electric supplies.... sorry it is just the anal master electrician in me.

and kerry if you want i can come up and play for a day, when is the BQ
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Trekkor
post Jun 19 2005, 02:09 PM
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Scott, this set up that I showed has never failed me.
Looks are completley unimportant.

What would you do for $5 that worked equally as well, and didn't take all day to win some science fair blue ribbon?

Sorry, for all that... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/dry.gif)
Kerry wants to run his motor. I'm showing a way that allows him to do that in minutes, and when he's done he can throw away the kit and feel good about it. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)

I kept mine though...future testing (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/confused24.gif)

KT
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Kerrys914
post Jun 19 2005, 05:43 PM
Post #30


Dear, the parts I just sold paid for that part ;)
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(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif) Thanks... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/sad.gif)

It's been a bad weekend and didn't get any better.

I need to step back and redo things. I have no Idea why the freak'n thing is not working.

My XR 700 module is toast..no signal at all. I could have sworn it worked yesterday. It seems like the ground wires are getting very HOT.

Is the spade connector on the starter is grounded????? I tried two different starters and they both seem the same. I connect a DVM between the spade connector and ground and it is defiantly grounded. The yellow wire applies 12+ to the spade connector.

Looks like this weekend cost me about $250 in parts. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/confused24.gif)
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Kerrys914
post Jun 20 2005, 07:22 AM
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Dear, the parts I just sold paid for that part ;)
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How doe sthis look?


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Trekkor
post Jun 20 2005, 09:00 AM
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I'm not sure, but I think the switched ( key on ) power needs to go into the CDI first, then it terminates at the + coil.
Your diagram shows the coil with power before the CDI gets it.

KT
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Kerrys914
post Jun 20 2005, 09:08 AM
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Dear, the parts I just sold paid for that part ;)
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The diagram above is without the CDI...Just the points conversion XR 700 and a OEM coil.

I'll post the HI-6 diagram in a few
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Kerrys914
post Jun 20 2005, 09:10 AM
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Dear, the parts I just sold paid for that part ;)
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CDI or HI-6


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sixnotfour
post Jun 20 2005, 09:11 AM
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The fuel pump shouldn't run off of the ignition circut, it should have its own.
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ArtechnikA
post Jun 20 2005, 09:15 AM
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QUOTE (sixnotfour @ Jun 20 2005, 11:11 AM)
The fuel pump shouldn't run off of the ignition circut, it should have its own.

this isn't an in-car schematic, it's a test-stand schematic...

Kerry - those look okayfine to me...

IMO - go get a big ignition-rated momentary switch for your start button; you'd be unhappy if for whatever reason you couldn't switch out the starter fast enough...
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Kerrys914
post Jun 20 2005, 09:42 AM
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Dear, the parts I just sold paid for that part ;)
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Yes this is just what I am using to test the engine out of the car.

"unhappy if for whatever reason you couldn't switch out the starter fast enough... "

Please explain this??? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif) As soon as the engine fires I will switch the starter off, just like I would with the key'd ignition? Am I missing something here?
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ArtechnikA
post Jun 20 2005, 09:54 AM
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QUOTE (Kerrys914 @ Jun 20 2005, 11:42 AM)
"unhappy if for whatever reason you couldn't switch out the starter fast enough... "

Please explain this???

switches have voltage ratings for a reason, and a DC switch is LOTS bigger than an AC switch of the same voltage for an important reason: AC requires a LOT more voltage to sustain an arc (since it goes to zero 60 times a second).

trying to switch 20A DC of starter solenoid current through a 20A 110V household wall switch could have unintended consequences - arc in the switch, welded contacts... it's not so much that it's highly likely (although i'm sure this is at least part of what Scott was objecting to...) but that the consequences would be unpleasant.

a proper 12VDC starter switch can't be more than $10 at the FLAPS (for a really nice one) and it just strikes me as the appropriate thing to do.

also - "stuff happens" when you go to light up a new engine. big oil leak? left a rag on top of the carbs... all manner of unexpected stuff. that's why i like a spring-return momentary switch that cannot remain engaged if i need to deal with something critical. household switches aren't like that. if a proper switch were expensive, or hard to come by, it might tip the scale, but they're neither...
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Kerrys914
post Jun 20 2005, 10:01 AM
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Dear, the parts I just sold paid for that part ;)
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(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif) Thanks.

So far things have been very unpleasent..to say the least (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif) so I'll pick up a switch this week.
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ArtechnikA
post Jun 20 2005, 11:46 AM
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one other thing to add...

the heavy red and black wires on the HI-6 (or a MSD, for that matter) need to go directly to the battery and an excellent ground. DO NOT try to power the whole unit from Terminal 15 !

those units use Terminal 15 as a turn-on signal only - the heavy power and ground leads need a direct, low-impedance connection directly to the battery (or its equivalent).

my 911's HI-6 uses a 10-Ga wire to the +12 terminal on the starter post.
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