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> Saving Babydoll
zymurgist
post Jul 10 2005, 08:08 PM
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...and another. Trying to get a good view of the surface here.


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zymurgist
post Aug 11 2005, 05:11 AM
Post #22


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OK, I have a question about the driver's seat mount. It appears to have a rake adjustment, allowing the front of the seat to be tilted. I have the seat mount out, and it appears to be missing a piece.


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zymurgist
post Aug 11 2005, 05:13 AM
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Here's a closeup of the area in question. It appears that there should be a bolt or a pin or something that goes all the way through the tube, and the spring hooks around it to provide tension. Can I just run a high strength bolt through the hole (see yellow arrow) and hook the spring around it?


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tat2dphreak
post Aug 11 2005, 09:40 AM
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yea, there should be a little hook looking thing there... it goes into a slotted piece on the cross-member...
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type47
post Aug 11 2005, 11:13 AM
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try here for 914 workshop manual, etc

http://www.icbm.org/erkson/personal/Porsch...nuals/index.htm

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zymurgist
post Aug 11 2005, 01:46 PM
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The hook is there... it appears to have been retained to the tube by a bolt or a pin in the past. That pin/bolt has since disappeared, allowing the hook to move independently of the tube. I'm guessing that a 12.9 or Grade 8 bolt through the hole should tie them together and form a surface for the spring to act upon.

Apparently the hook is there to set the rake adjustment, with two little hinges at the back of the seat mount where it bolts to the body. At least they look like hinges... they appear to be frozen. Oh well, a little WD-40 should clear that right up.
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tat2dphreak
post Aug 11 2005, 02:02 PM
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QUOTE (zymurgist @ Aug 11 2005, 02:46 PM)
The hook is there... it appears to have been retained to the tube by a bolt or a pin in the past. That pin/bolt has since disappeared, allowing the hook to move independently of the tube. I'm guessing that a 12.9 or Grade 8 bolt through the hole should tie them together and form a surface for the spring to act upon.

Apparently the hook is there to set the rake adjustment, with two little hinges at the back of the seat mount where it bolts to the body. At least they look like hinges... they appear to be frozen. Oh well, a little WD-40 should clear that right up.

you are WAY too optimistic... I have been soaking mine forever with PB... they bend before they "hinge" still... I want to just replace all the hinges...
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zymurgist
post Aug 11 2005, 05:25 PM
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Hmmm... have you tried using a torch on the hinges to see if they loosen up? That's the recommended method for removing heat exchanger nuts, riiight?
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tat2dphreak
post Aug 11 2005, 08:48 PM
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QUOTE (zymurgist @ Aug 11 2005, 06:25 PM)
Hmmm... have you tried using a torch on the hinges to see if they loosen up? That's the recommended method for removing heat exchanger nuts, riiight?

heat didn't help either... supposedly repeated PB blaster and pliers is the best way to go... I'm thinking drill out the pin and put a new one in...
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zymurgist
post Aug 12 2005, 05:12 AM
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How about PB Blaster and pliers, with a few judicious taps with a BFH and a brass punch (so as to avoid deforming the pins)? I've heard that hitting frozen parts with a hammer while applying a penetrating oil sometimes helps the oil to penetrate more quickly.
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tat2dphreak
post Aug 12 2005, 07:47 AM
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good idea! crazy enough, it just might work! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif) lmk
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zymurgist
post Aug 16 2005, 05:58 AM
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I haven't gotten to the seat hinges yet, since I would have to take two covers off of Babydoll and it was brutally hot last weekend and now it's raining... but I did find some time to fix the seat frame. I went to my local Ace Hardware and bought a 12.9 Allen head bolt, 5mm x 0.8, 30mm long. I drilled the hole all the way through the bar to make it just large enough to tap the hole, then I ran a 5mm x 0.8 tap through it. The bolt has an unthreaded portion near the head... I just threaded the bolt all the way down to where the thread ends, and then looped the spring over the unthreaded portion. I don't think it will work loose, because the threads go all the way through the bar, and the spring tension should keep the bolt from wandering.


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