I'm trying to help out a friend here. She has had a 914 for a few years now... she bought the car as a weekend toy. Never mind the fact that it was almost 30 years old, since she has a few Porsche freaks... erm, I mean friends... to help her out with maintenance.

Babydoll, as her white '74 2.0 is affectionately known, sadly has rust in all the usual places. But we're not going to go there, at least not in the immediate future. What I'm trying to do is to get the mechanicals in good shape so the car can be used as a weekend joyrider. The engine was rebuilt a few years ago with Euro pistons & cylinders, and it runs as smoothly as you can expect from a 4-banger.

It started with an oil leak onto the clutch. Normally this is a "drop the engine, fix the problem, put it back in" kind of deal, but since we're doing this in my 2-bay garage, and I already have 2 toys of my own in it, we have to play a logistics game. We dropped the engine/tranny and rolled the car out of the garage, allowing my poor sick 911 to be coaxed back under cover. Babydoll got a car cover and then a plastic tarp to keep the rain off.

So now her 2.0 drivetrain is sitting on my floor, and I'm going over it, trying to make sure that the hoses are in good shape because she has complained of chronic fuel leaks. Lo and behold, I found that all of the injection hose is 5/16" hose that is clearly marked as 7.93 mm... factory spec is 7 mm, so this hose is almost 1mm too large. There is one piece of 7mm hose, but it looks really really old, so all that hose has to go! I'm also going to replace all the worm type clamps with proper fuel injection clamps. Also going to pull the injectors and have them checked out. When they go back in they will get new seals. That, I think, should fix any fuel leaks on the engine.

The emissions hose is all there, but I'd like to replace it if I can find a nice factory-type sheathed hose in 13mm, although 1/2" would be OK if it's got that sheath on the outside. The only thing missing is the deceleration valve, but my research indicates that this isn't strictly necessary. No emissions on antique cars in Virginia.

When I get around to separating the engine and tranny, I plan to clean the heck out of the flywheel and pressure plate; replace the flywheel seal and O-ring; replace the clutch disc and throwout bearing; and check the oil galley plugs and goop them up if necessary.

Does this sound like a good plan? Are there any "while I'm in there" things that I should attend to? I don't want to have to drop her engine for a long time, especially since I may be dropping my 911 engine (to fix oil leaks, why else?) this winter.

Oh yeah... I consider engine drops and reinstalls to be 2 person jobs, so I schedule that work when my friend can come over and help me. That way somebody can call 911 (EMS, that is, not my car!) when I drop an engine on my foot.

QUOTE (zymurgist @ Jun 15 2005, 05:19 AM)

Does this sound like a good plan? Are there any "while I'm in there" things that I should attend to? I don't want to have to drop her engine for a long time, especially since I may be dropping my 911 engine (to fix oil leaks, why else?) this winter.

While the engine is out...

I would fix that rust. Putting it off until "later" could be asking for trouble. Or allow it to get to a point where safety is a concern. Or even past the point of no return as far as saving the tub.

Might as well do while the engine is out. "while you're in there..."

Not an option at this time. I have a sick 911 of my own that needs attention (busted shift rod), and a Corvette that I want to make some mods on (but won't take the car down unless the 911 is roadworthy, that way I have a toy of my own)... and I don't really know much about welding anyway (as in, I've seen other people do it but never done it myself).

My friend is on a fairly strict budget... that's why I'm doing the work rather than a professional, and I'm doing it on a "when I can get to it" basis. But hey, if I do end up fixing the rust, we'll already have experience dropping the powertrain and we'll be able to drop it in less than a full Saturday.

roll the car onto a tarp, buy a $30 can of POR15 and a .50 paintbrush. Tell your friend to "paint" all of the rust she can see. That would at least buy her some time.

This may also be a good time to replace the trans main seal

If you feel like you can resist the "as long as we're doing this, why not [...]" (aka DWD), perhaps drill and tap the oil galley plugs. It appears you know your way around an engine, so it shouldn't take too much time. Good preventative work to ward off catastrophic oil loss.

QUOTE (zymurgist @ Jun 15 2005, 08:07 AM)

Not an option at this time. I have a sick 911 of my own that needs attention (busted shift rod)

911? Ok, get a torch, and 5 gallons of gas, and roll the 911 out into the street, and let's set it ablaze.

I can't BELIEVE!!!! you come in the 914 club wearing that mink 911 around your neck! We are sensitive to the equal rights of 914s.

Shift rod? Shift rod!? MY GOD MAN! As a long-time 914 driver, I can say I have driven a 914 WITHOUT ONE!



So... before you go getting all.... 'whatever!' on me.. please...

it's a 914.. betta reco'nize!



So, when are you burning the 911 for insurance, so we can put a 3.8/6 in that full restoration you are gonna do on babydoll?




Miles

QUOTE (Verruckt @ Jun 15 2005, 03:45 AM)

QUOTE (zymurgist @ Jun 15 2005, 05:19 AM) Does this sound like a good plan?  Are there any "while I'm in there" things that I should attend to?  I don't want to have to drop her engine for a long time, especially since I may be dropping my 911 engine (to fix oil leaks, why else?) this winter. While the engine is out... I would fix that rust. Putting it off until "later" could be asking for trouble. Or allow it to get to a point where safety is a concern. Or even past the point of no return as far as saving the tub. Might as well do while the engine is out. "while you're in there..."

Ken

You be careful when you work on that car. 914's carry a disease called Dirk Wright Disease. Once infected you will look at a car differently. Everytime you start a project you will see other things that could be done. A newly infected individual will be heard saying "While I'm in there" and ussually the projects never end. Cars spend years on jackstands. It would be ashamed if your 911 and Corvette got the disease too.

Having said that, adjust the valves while the engine is out. Big time saver. While you are in there change the valve cover gaskets. Consider replacing plugs, points, rotor and cap. But while you are in there, consider looking at the distributor cause the bushings may be worn. Change the filters. While you are in there if there is rust in the fuel filter consider pulling the fuel tank and cleaning and sealing it. Repack the CV joints or better yet while you are in there clean and inspect them and replace if necessary. (Sorry that part is NLA so you can consider adapting something else). Well crap, since we are doing all of that maybe we should do the rust. See where it can go.

Seriously, check to see if it is safe (Brakes, tires, suspension and reasonably solid, fuel lines). Do a tune up (adjust valves, filters, ignition components). Eliminate vacuum leaks (new hoses). Most of this you were already on. Just don't look to close at everything else cause you may be opening a can of worms . Oh ya, JP says magic smoke lives in these cars somewhere so be really careful not to let it out cause the car never runs right without it.

It sounds like you are a kind soul so tell your friend about the other things you see but, let her get them done cause you may not get back to your own cars.

Dave

I ain't saying nuthin!

hagerstown, i am 1 hour away in baltimore

and i would at least jb weld the galley plugs if you dont tap them.

btw i know the wiring, the ljet fi, and how to weld

QUOTE (redshift @ Jun 15 2005, 05:01 AM)

QUOTE So, when are you burning the 911 for insurance, so we can put a 3.8/6 in that full restoration you are gonna do on babydoll?

Not burning the 911! Ain't gonna happen,no way, no how! Now, if you think I wouldn't strip the 911 for parts and sell the lightweight no-sunroof tub, you might want to think again.

The engine in that car is worth what I paid for the whole car (and if you ever saw the car on the inside, you'd probably agree ). I've been thinking in the back of my mind that the screaming MFI motor would totally rule in a 914. I'd also take the 5-lug brakes off the 911 and anything else that would be useful for a 914/6 project.

That project ain't gonna be Babydoll, though... Babydoll isn't my car, and the owner likes the fuel economy of the 2.0, and anyway she'd kill herself in a powerful car. (She'll probably smack me upside the head if she reads this.) I'd have to find a good tub of my own, or perhaps a 914/6 project that somebody else started but couldn't finish.

QUOTE (DNHunt @ Jun 15 2005, 05:12 AM)

Everytime you start a project you will see other things that could be done. A newly infected individual will be heard saying "While I'm in there" and ussually the projects never end. Cars spend years on jackstands. It would be ashamed if your 911 and Corvette got the disease too.

It's too late, I've already been infected. The Corvette spent 3 years on jackstands, as a project that began as an engine rebuild.

- The rebuild became a replacement.
- The transmission was freshened by a pro so it wouldn't break with all the new torque.
- Ditto for the rear end and all U-joints in the drivetrain. (Think of a naked CV joint, more or less.)
- Then, who wants to go fast if you can't stop? New calipers, brake lines, rebuilt master cylinder.
- Then, who wants to go fast and brake hard if the car won't handle? New springs front and rear, suspension bushings, Konis all around.
- Then, who wants to put all these new parts on a ratty looking car? Painted the engine compartment, re-wrapped the wiring harness, powder coated every bracket that would fit in my oven.

After over 2 years of mucking around with this project (and there were weeks at a time when I refused to even look at it because I was so pissed off at it), I bought the 911 so I'd have a fast car to drive while my anal retentive alter-ego finished the Corvette (and you're right, they never are really finished).

QUOTE (mudfoot76 @ Jun 15 2005, 04:57 AM)

If you feel like you can resist the "as long as we're doing this, why not [...]" (aka DWD), perhaps drill and tap the oil galley plugs. It appears you know your way around an engine, so it shouldn't take too much time. Good preventative work to ward off catastrophic oil loss.

Can that be safely done? I got the impression on the Pelican 914 forum that you don't want to do this with the engine assembled. Metal shavings in the oil galleys would be a Very Bad Thing.

Part of the deal with Babydoll is, I can drive it all I want until it's properly tuned, but anything I break, I have to fix. And I have no intention of tearing down the engine. Heck, I didn't even want to do that for the Corvette (that's why I bought an engine from a builder).

QUOTE (solex @ Jun 15 2005, 04:49 AM)

This may also be a good time to replace the trans main seal

Can that seal be replaced without cracking the transmission case?

i will start in reverse

yes you can change the seal with out opening the tranny

also you can tap the case with the engine together there are a few tricks like lots of grease on the tap to hold the shavings. then you put rags in the iol passages to catch any shaving that get away. as for the grease you have to pull the tap every 180 dregreas of cutting and clean it off regrease and do another 180

hi ken, this is jim, babydoll's owners friend. about your question about the hoses: i have a diagram from AA about all the sizes and length requirements of all the hoses. send me your email address and i'll forward the info. i picked up new hoses for my engine at the bug out in manassas on memorial day but pelican sells lengths of all the hoses as well.

Thanks, Jim. She left a big white binder full of 914 articles at my house. If your diagram isn't already in there (there are 3 in it now), I'll add it. That's how I discovered that there was no deceleration valve.

I didn't know about the Bug Out, but then I don't follow VW stuff that much. (Maybe I should, for Babydoll's sake.) There will be an all-German swap meet in September at Ski Roundtop, PA (just our side of Harrisburg) that I'm planning on attending... also, I'm going to the Porsche Parade in Hershey on the 25th... not as a Porsche participant, but I'd like to check the swap meet and see what cool cars turn up in the display area. There was a Carrera GT there in April. (Gotta love those mid-engine roadsters!)

OK, I have a question. Babydoll's flywheel looks pretty good, surface-wise, and has a good pilot bearing. There is an area that looks fairly chewed up, but I don't know if it's anything to be concerned about. In the recess, where the O-ring seats, the flat surface isn't very flat. Is this a problem?

Trying to post a picture.

...and another. Trying to get a good view of the surface here.

OK, I have a question about the driver's seat mount. It appears to have a rake adjustment, allowing the front of the seat to be tilted. I have the seat mount out, and it appears to be missing a piece.

Here's a closeup of the area in question. It appears that there should be a bolt or a pin or something that goes all the way through the tube, and the spring hooks around it to provide tension. Can I just run a high strength bolt through the hole (see yellow arrow) and hook the spring around it?

yea, there should be a little hook looking thing there... it goes into a slotted piece on the cross-member...

try here for 914 workshop manual, etc

http://www.icbm.org/erkson/personal/Porsch...nuals/index.htm

The hook is there... it appears to have been retained to the tube by a bolt or a pin in the past. That pin/bolt has since disappeared, allowing the hook to move independently of the tube. I'm guessing that a 12.9 or Grade 8 bolt through the hole should tie them together and form a surface for the spring to act upon.

Apparently the hook is there to set the rake adjustment, with two little hinges at the back of the seat mount where it bolts to the body. At least they look like hinges... they appear to be frozen. Oh well, a little WD-40 should clear that right up.

QUOTE (zymurgist @ Aug 11 2005, 02:46 PM)

The hook is there... it appears to have been retained to the tube by a bolt or a pin in the past. That pin/bolt has since disappeared, allowing the hook to move independently of the tube. I'm guessing that a 12.9 or Grade 8 bolt through the hole should tie them together and form a surface for the spring to act upon. Apparently the hook is there to set the rake adjustment, with two little hinges at the back of the seat mount where it bolts to the body. At least they look like hinges... they appear to be frozen. Oh well, a little WD-40 should clear that right up.

you are WAY too optimistic... I have been soaking mine forever with PB... they bend before they "hinge" still... I want to just replace all the hinges...

Hmmm... have you tried using a torch on the hinges to see if they loosen up? That's the recommended method for removing heat exchanger nuts, riiight?

QUOTE (zymurgist @ Aug 11 2005, 06:25 PM)

Hmmm... have you tried using a torch on the hinges to see if they loosen up? That's the recommended method for removing heat exchanger nuts, riiight?

heat didn't help either... supposedly repeated PB blaster and pliers is the best way to go... I'm thinking drill out the pin and put a new one in...

How about PB Blaster and pliers, with a few judicious taps with a BFH and a brass punch (so as to avoid deforming the pins)? I've heard that hitting frozen parts with a hammer while applying a penetrating oil sometimes helps the oil to penetrate more quickly.

good idea! crazy enough, it just might work! lmk

I haven't gotten to the seat hinges yet, since I would have to take two covers off of Babydoll and it was brutally hot last weekend and now it's raining... but I did find some time to fix the seat frame. I went to my local Ace Hardware and bought a 12.9 Allen head bolt, 5mm x 0.8, 30mm long. I drilled the hole all the way through the bar to make it just large enough to tap the hole, then I ran a 5mm x 0.8 tap through it. The bolt has an unthreaded portion near the head... I just threaded the bolt all the way down to where the thread ends, and then looped the spring over the unthreaded portion. I don't think it will work loose, because the threads go all the way through the bar, and the spring tension should keep the bolt from wandering.