Valve Adjustment Question, Valve Adjustment Question Options

[HerdofCrickets]

So perhaps I'm slightly not overly excited about smashing my hands up there to do the adjustment (ie lazy) but.... I'm about to try my first valve adjustment, is there a reason we don't drop the exhaust out of the way? Seems it'd be MUCH easier without that blocking all the workspace!

[worn]

So perhaps I'm slightly not overly excited about smashing my hands up there to do the adjustment (ie lazy) but.... I'm about to try my first valve adjustment, is there a reason we don't drop the exhaust out of the way? Seems it'd be MUCH easier without that blocking all the workspace!

It can be dirty and uncomfortable, and dirty. I think it can also produce some wear and tear on the heads. Often the studs come out of the heads, and grind their rusty way back into place. This puts wear on the threads in the aluminum. Although the copper gaskets are softer than aluminum they aren’t a great deal softer. So there is mashing required to get a seal. The fasteners rust no matter what, so they can break off. That is what I was thinking anyway.

[Dave_Darling]

Just to note that there is a difference between "valve" and "value"... It's a bit unusual to see the same typo twice in one title! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Some people do like to remove the exhaust to adjust the valves. Especially on 75+ or 914-6es with heat exchangers.

It's kind of a pain, though, especially if the exhaust hasn't been off recently. The nuts love to seize onto the studs, which can break off in the head if you're unlucky. And it can be challenging to get the pipes to seal to the heads, especially with SSIs that have been abused in the past.

So yes, it can and has been done. It isn't for everyone, but it certainly is a viable strategy.

--DD

[HerdofCrickets]

Just to note that there is a difference between "valve" and "value"... It's a bit unusual to see the same typo twice in one title! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Some people do like to remove the exhaust to adjust the valves. Especially on 75+ or 914-6es with heat exchangers.

It's kind of a pain, though, especially if the exhaust hasn't been off recently. The nuts love to seize onto the studs, which can break off in the head if you're unlucky. And it can be challenging to get the pipes to seal to the heads, especially with SSIs that have been abused in the past.

So yes, it can and has been done. It isn't for everyone, but it certainly is a viable strategy.

--DD

Well it looks like there is a very odd autocorrect setup on my computer! Thanks for the heads up.

I'll give it a try tomorrow without taking off the exhaust,

[cary]

I think we should call it valve clearance inspection .................
Not every valve needs adjusting. It would be shame to break off an exhaust stud just to get some space, when only 3 of the 8 valves need adjusting.
I'd say measure them all then determine your action plan ..............
My .02c for tonight.

[TheCabinetmaker]

Removing the exhaust to adjust valves is kinda like turning the car upside down to drain the oil. Your going to cause yourself a lot of work, and possibly a lot of money repairing what you screwed up. I'm a real old-timer. I will not removing the exhaust unless absolutely necessary!

[falcor75]

I'd rather pull the motor and gearbox than pull the heater boxes once I've finally got them to seal up...

[HerdofCrickets]

Good deal. I was looking for an easy way out but it looks like I'll be doing a "valve clearance inspection" to see if that is the source of my engine knock tonight.

[iankarr]

If there's anything else you're thinking about doing to your engine in addition to your first valve adjustment, (cleaning, powdercoating tins, new seals, etc.) I think you'd benefit from dropping the engine. Adjusting the valves out of the car the first time will give you a better feel for what's needed when you have limited sight lines and access. That said, if adjusting valves is ALL you need to do, dropping the engine would be overkill...and you'll probably spend the same amount of time fiddling with the valves in the car.

[HerdofCrickets]

If there's anything else you're thinking about doing to your engine in addition to your first valve adjustment, (cleaning, powdercoating tins, new seals, etc.) I think you'd benefit from dropping the engine. Adjusting the valves out of the car the first time will give you a better feel for what's needed when you have limited sight lines and access. That said, if adjusting valves is ALL you need to do, dropping the engine would be overkill...and you'll probably spend the same amount of time fiddling with the valves in the car.

If the value adjustment doesn't cure my little engine knock, I think dropping the engine will be a project to tackle over the winter.

My dad dropped the engine and had it totally rebuilt about 10 years ago, but the car has less then 500 miles on it since it was rebuilt... so I can't imagine it needs much, but I am very much not a mechanic and learning as I go!

[Bartlett 914]

If there's anything else you're thinking about doing to your engine in addition to your first valve adjustment, (cleaning, powdercoating tins, new seals, etc.) I think you'd benefit from dropping the engine. Adjusting the valves out of the car the first time will give you a better feel for what's needed when you have limited sight lines and access. That said, if adjusting valves is ALL you need to do, dropping the engine would be overkill...and you'll probably spend the same amount of time fiddling with the valves in the car.

If the value adjustment doesn't cure my little engine knock, I think dropping the engine will be a project to tackle over the winter.

My dad dropped the engine and had it totally rebuilt about 10 years ago, but the car has less then 500 miles on it since it was rebuilt... so I can't imagine it needs much, but I am very much not a mechanic and learning as I go!

valves make tapping sounds. if there is a knocking sound then there is a bigger problem

[HerdofCrickets]

valves make tapping sounds. if there is a knocking sound then there is a bigger problem

This is a video I took a month or so ago...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=STdrgyh0hhA

It's very consistent, not random.

[TheCabinetmaker]

Not a valve adjustment problem. Dropped valve seat more likely. Or possibly a huge exhaust leak. Remove the valve cover and see if you don't have a valve that is way way out of adjustment

[billh1963]

Not a valve adjustment problem. Dropped valve seat more likely. Or possibly a huge exhaust leak. Remove the valve cover and see if you don't have a valve that is way way out of adjustment

That's how mine sounded when it dropped a valve seat

[iankarr]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) but I hope we're wrong.

[HerdofCrickets]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) but I hope we're wrong.

Well me too, I can't find a darn thing online about how to fix that so... that makes me nervous! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/slap.gif)

[brant]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) but I hope we're wrong.

Well me too, I can't find a darn thing online about how to fix that so... that makes me nervous! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/slap.gif)

Hopefully you are not dropping a valve seat
most likely there would be a significant compression loss in that cylinder that you would be able to detect through a leak down test.

but fixing a valve seat would require dropping the motor, pulling the head and having a specialist that is familiar with aluminum heads on air cooled cars make you and install another valve seat.

this would need to be done before the entire seat dropped into the combustion chamber and blew up the rest of the motor (possible, bend rod, hole in block, holed piston, contaminated oil passages, etc)

most people that actually have a dropping valve seat would consider pulling the head from the other bank and consider having those seats checked at the same time

whom ever last touched the head, could possibly not have the experience required to rebuild the head and seats correctly.... causing one to come loose and putting the other 7 seats at risk for a similar fate.

if they were rebuilt by a known and skilled specialist... you would be more likely to be safe that only one seat is loose and the other 7 are not at risk.

many people will go ahead and fully rebuild the motor at this point... especially if its a tired motor. Sitting for a decade is not good on a motor. but possibly further inspection will show your rings, valve springs and other items are fine and not in need of replacement or rebuild.... and possibly you will need to replace some of those items after 10 years.

an expert with experience, or a a lot of research and careful measuring can help make that decision.





Adjust your valves
then if the noise still exists... don't drive it without digging deeper

[billh1963]

Adjust your valves
then if the noise still exists... don't drive it without digging deeper

I'm pretty sure that when he goes to adjust the valves he'll find "one of these in not like the other"!

If you have to pull one head you might as well pull the other and get it inspected at the same time. Once the engine is out all the other "while you are in there" spending starts (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

[Dave_Darling]

Hopefully you are not dropping a valve seat
most likely there would be a significant compression loss in that cylinder that you would be able to detect through a leak down test.

You would be able to detect it by listening to the starter. If there is a pattern to the sound that drops out every fourth time, there's a good chance you have one "dead hole". The sound would be something like "RR-RR-RR-..-RR-RR-RR-..".

That was how I found the last dropped seat on my car....

--DD

[HerdofCrickets]

Finally got the stupid cover off.

My feeler gauges are somewhere safe, I will have to search around for them. They all feel secure, one of them does not feel any different than the others.