From electric to a Subaru 3.6 swap, I'm the Suby guy who wandered into the 914 club Options

[Chi-town]

There's a few reasons I'm going to move the motor forward:

The throttle body is literally up against the rear trunk wall, I can't even fit my finger in between.

The tail of the trans is too far rearward into the heat shield area. With it more forward I can lift the rear of the trans to get it back to the right angle without cutting the shield.

Clutch slave and release fork clearance without cutting.

There's about 6-8"" between the front cover AVCS protrusions and the rear bulkhead. I'm going to try it with the motor moved forward 2", check the CV angles and clearances. If I am still not happy and have any angle left in the CV's I'll move it 4".

The throttle body clearance issue is the least of my concerns as I only plan on running the stock intake manifold to get the car running and then I'll switch over to ITB's.

[Chris914n6]

I've got a 2011 WRX trans so some of this might not apply.

I think you can cut off the top of the fork as the other years don't have the helper spring.

I'm sure someone can find a slave with the same bore and fab a bracket. Nissan makes several that are low profile. I've got a pusher with it mounted on the bell so it's a different solution.

Rubber mallet to bend the heat shield out of the way, just in case you want it back later.

Stock CVs can handle 1.5" forward or back, as it's the size of the Renegade Hybrids blocks for SBC swaps. Make sure you calculate in full circle... including susp movement.

Flip the intake? I'm sure others would be interested in knowing.

PS. Diameter of the Suby flywheel someone?

[Chi-town]

I did think about swapping to a push style clutch case but I've had too many fork and bearing failures throughout the years with them.

I'm redesigning the cradle anyway so the move forward isn't that hard in the scheme of things.

I'm ordered a set of ProAm high angle CV's so I can do a bit more than 1.5" off center. I will run a full suspension cycle to make sure they stay happy all the way through.

You would have to make a custom adjustable alternator mount to flip the intake manifold. I plan on switching to ITB's so it's not a big issue for me but if I'm going to produce cradles for a kit I want it to be as bolt in as possible.

[76-914]

There's a few reasons I'm going to move the motor forward:

The throttle body is literally up against the rear trunk wall, I can't even fit my finger in between.

The tail of the trans is too far rearward into the heat shield area. With it more forward I can lift the rear of the trans to get it back to the right angle without cutting the shield.

Clutch slave and release fork clearance without cutting.

There's about 6-8"" between the front cover AVCS protrusions and the rear bulkhead. I'm going to try it with the motor moved forward 2", check the CV angles and clearances. If I am still not happy and have any angle left in the CV's I'll move it 4".

The throttle body clearance issue is the least of my concerns as I only plan on running the stock intake manifold to get the car running and then I'll switch over to ITB's.

What is the correct angle in degrees of the transmission. I can see from some tech drawings that the transmission does tilt down towards the rear in it's stock configuration. The ITB conversion will be interesting. I suppose it will require a different map for the ECU??? Is that available? I forgot to mention what Chris just did. Chop the end off the clutch fork. You say the transmission sits too far back. Are you using the 6 speed? More pic's for the suby crowd, pls. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Chi-town]

It's back out of the car at the moment while I make plates to move the mounts. I should have it back in sometime this week.

I'm running a EZ36R so the factory ECU is not an option for me due to the immobilizer issue. I have a Link standalone that I'll be using.

The bottom of a Subaru 5 speed should be almost level with the ground to keep the fluid where it should be and not stuck in the tail.

I did measure and there's no way to run a 6 speed unless you want to cut the trunk floor and make a tunnel for it.

[76-914]

Yeah, I knew about the Link ECU but didn't know if there was an available map for the ITB set up. Or maybe that won't necessitate a map change? IIRC, I trimmed my heat shield a bit for my home made shift mechanism @ the rear of the transmission. Nothing major. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Chi-town]

Yeah it get's kinda tricky with the ITB's. You have to run a MAP load calculation to TPS only fuel mapping switch over point due to them hitting 0 inches of vacuum at only 20-30% throttle.

[flmont]

I would love some info on those axle's ?? Thanks

[Chi-town]

Well right now it's just a set of 4 joints sitting on my tool box not complete axles. Once I get the engine back in I'll take some measurements and get a shaft made for trial.

[flmont]

Ah,..Ok Thanks

[effutuo101]

You should be able to flip the intake of you want. A lot of people do this. Not sure what years.

[Chi-town]

Would need a custom adjustable alternator mount to make room for the throttle body.

[914forme]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) And that is an issue (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[Chi-town]

Because I don't have access to a machinist or CNC equipment (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

[914forme]

You don't need it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Before CNC people made some pretty intricate stuff. CNC allows you to take a drawing and build it to an exacting standard. For one off stuff, your faster just building the damn thing. It is when you need to make 2 or 2 million that CNC becomes your friend.

Some steel, some washers, a bit of welding and you can build a prototype, and bit more welding you can make it solid, and bit of grinding you can make it pretty.

Or lay it out, go to one of the 3D print bars, print out your rapid design prototypes and test fit it and get the design right. Print the final in PLA, and use it to build a sand cast, melt down some ingots and pore the thing, and from their finish it up, with a step drill. Once you have that done, find someone to print the thing in metal. SLA will do the same thing, works like a champ, and very little final cleanup needed.

There are people who will do the run if you can make the design. Some times it just costs you a (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)

If you want to DIY it, I respect that, look for a place that is setup to rent the tools. We have a place in Cincinnati called the Manufactury, wood working, Machine Tools, and some heavy 3D stuff, I know they have a similar space in the Bay Area as I have seen them, while working in silicon valley. I fly in and break shit, rebuild, make it better and get the F out. I can't take the Bay Area Pirus gangs (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) Should be something in your area, like the UrbanWorkshop

Lots of ways to do this, you just seem to be hitting the brick wall over something that is trivial in the other scheme of this build. And don't feel bad we all run into that wall, just trying to pull you up.

[effutuo101]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) And that is an issue (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

I have a guy..
He makes an alternator bracket that moves it to where the AC used to be. I will be ordering on in a couple of weeks. I will dig up his contact info.

[Chi-town]

I would need it where the power steering pump used to be as I plan on installing A/C if I keep the car long term. It gets way too hot in the summer here in SoCal in a thin roof car stuck in traffic.

[effutuo101]

Gotcha. Well, 2x75 works for me!

[76-914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) And that is an issue (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

I have a guy..
He makes an alternator bracket that moves it to where the AC used to be. I will be ordering on in a couple of weeks. I will dig up his contact info.

You won't regret the AC install. I've got the AC tools and can show you how to install a Vintage Air unit without any modifications or drilling of the lower dash pad. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[effutuo101]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)