Gas tank and fuel line questions, I pulled and cleaned my tank! Options

[bmtrnavsky]

I have a VERY clean tank in my 72 2.0 now!

Ok... after 5 years of sitting 1/2 full of fuel in the humidity of East Texas I had some issues... here is what I did. first I pulled the tank drained it completely and washed it. To get it clean I dumped about 5 gallons of boiling water and Cascade dishwasher soap in it and sloshed it around. this did a FANTASTIC job of washing ut all the fuel residue and sludge from the bottom. Then I noticed there was rust in the bottom of the tank mostly right at the fuel return and pickup. It was gross, but I tapped on it with a small piece of rebar to knock off the loose stuff then filled the talk with about a gallon of Evapo-Rust. Let me tell you this stuff was FANTASTIC!. for a couple days I kept blocking and rotating the empty tank and treated all the rust. The tank is now a shiny silver grey with a touch of black where the worst rust was. Then I fogged the interior of the tank with SeaFoam to keep it from rusting. The aerosol kind you shoot down throttle bodies was awesome here.

The tank is now rust free, sanded and painted as are the expansion tank and charcoal filter. Everything looks clean and pretty. BUT I had to cut some fuel lines to get the tank out...

First is it possible to put it back in wrong? I don't think it is because there are two different sized hoses.

Second what size hose the local parts stores seem to have inch sizes what is the metric and standard conversion? It's all new in the engine compartment, but this hose was 40 years old so I figure I should get'r done.

How much of each should I buy?

There is a little Y shaped thingy down below I can not tell what it was hooked up to?

My pump and filter are near the steering rack now if that helps answer any of these questions.

Do I need to replace the TINY hose that goes up by the gas cap? What do I use here and what size is it?

I have plastic fuel lines in the longs. Can I or should I pull and replace these with rubber fuel line?

Finally... I have a new battery in and am about to have fresh fuel... is there anything besides clean oil I should be looking at before I fire it up? everything seems to work when you turn the key. It turns over strong, lights, radio etc seem to work, and brakes work.

I'd like to take it for a few laps around the neighborhood tonight if I manage to get it started.

If anyone has a diagram of how these fuel lines go that would be a BIG help.

[bmtrnavsky]

Bump...

[iankarr]

Fuel hoses are 8mm (return) and 9.5mm (supply). Definitely make sure you get hose that’s rated to withstand ethanol. 3 feet of each will be enough. The plastic lines are in the tunnel, not the longs. Prob a good long term idea to replace them with stainless steel, but they may be ok for the time being. If you smell gas in the cabin, thats your clue. Tangerine Racing has all you need to get the fuel system sorted. When you put the tank back in, make sure the hoses don’t kink. Best to put a small coil in the line so it sits flat.

The small line near the cap is to capture vapor. I used fuel-rated plastic tubing to replace. I think it was 5/16” ID.

If the car has been sitting for years, and the engine seems to turn over fine, I’d replace the plugs and verify that the timing is good. Flush and bleed the brake system. Also drain and replace the oil in the transaxle with 90W Dino. Make sure tires are inflated properly. I’m sure there’s more, but that should keep you busy for a bit!

[JawjaPorsche]

Contact Chris at Tangerine Racing. He can help you with hoses, new clamps, and stainless steel lines for your tunnel.

http://www.tangerineracing.com

[bmtrnavsky]

All of the local auto parts stores only sell fuel line in inch sizes... is it ok to use an equivalent size? I mean I am sure there are thousands of 914s out there with it but is it safe? If I'm buying inch size what should I get? I'd like to get the lines in and try to start it tonight.

[iankarr]

google is your friend (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif). 8mm = 5/16. 9.5=3/8

Not sure your local auto parts store will have the ethanol-safe "30 R9" lines. These are mandatory given the amount of ethanol in fuel today. Call @chrisfoley at tangerine

[ChrisFoley]

If you specify FI hose at your FLAPS it should be ethanol compatible.

[bmtrnavsky]

If you specify FI hose at your FLAPS it should be ethanol compatible.

Thanks guys!

[VaccaRabite]

While you have the tank out and clean...

Consider epoxy sealer for the inside of the tank to stop it from rusting ever again. I've had a lot of good luck with the Caswell tank sealer. I've used it on 2 tanks now.

You HAVE to follow the instructions to the letter, but the stuff works really well, and will seal over even rust pinholes.

Zach

[bmtrnavsky]

Ok... another related question. All of the engine compartment fuel line is pretty new like 6 or 7 years old no signs of deterioration. while I have the front hoses off is it ok to blow air through them on the supply side to force any bad old fuel through? Also, I was thinking about adding about 2 1/2 gallons of fuel and a can of seafoam to really clean it out. according to the internet, it should run fine and this won't hurt anything, I thought it might help clean out the injectors and any sludge in the line? thoughts?

[iankarr]

For me, if I had any question about their integrity or cleanliness, I'd replace them. Cheap insurance against fire and gumming up the injectors / engine. I'm also not a fan of blowing gasoline with compressed air (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif).

Highly recommend Mr. Injector. They do a great job and you can be sure at least that component is working optimally.

[raynekat]

My local auto parts store carries Gates "Barricade" fuel hose that is good for ethanol fuels.
Yours should be able to order it if they don't have it.
You need to get the kind rated for fuel injection (it's high pressure) not the one for carburetors (low pressure).
It will come in the sizes you need 5/16 and 3/8.
And I'd definitely get more than 3ft.
You should address the fuel lines in your engine compartment as well.
Of course do the stainless steel replacement of the plastic lines in the tunnel.

[bmtrnavsky]

Thanks! I'll just replace it all. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Amphicar770]

Biggest PIA was getting tank back in without kinking lines. Harbor Freight borescope camera was a huge help.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=282633

[iankarr]

I'd definitely get more than 3ft.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) just to clarify, I suggested 3 ft each of 5/16 and 3/8 sizes for the under tank area alone. If you’re also doing the engine compartment (great idea btw!), plus the feed and return, add approx 15 feet of 5/16, depending how your fuel pump and return is plumbed. Don’t forget new elbows for the injectors, too...

[jcd914]

Your signature says your car is a 72.

If your original 3 port fuel pump was relocated to the front by the steering rack the "Y" thing you asked about is probably the connection from the fuel pump into the return line.
It is plastic and you could break it replacing the hoses.

On a 72 with the fuel pump up front you are now running 30 psi fuel pressure through tunnel in a plastic fuel line that was originally designed for low pressure, gravity feed from the tank. This is why it is a very good idea to replace the 45 year old plastic lines with stainless steel.

Also on all the pressure side hose connection be sure to use hose clamps for fuel injection, they don't cut in to the fuel hose. Standard worm gear clamps cut the fuel hose up, kind of like a cheese grater.

Good Luck
Jim

[VaccaRabite]

One of the things I did to prevent kinking was to have the rubber runs as SHORT as possible. I bent up some nickle-copper tubing to make solid fuel lines where possible. Then I put the tank in and just used rubber hose to make connections. it was kinda tough to hook everything up from under the car, but not impossible (and all you need to do are the 2 tank connections - everything else you hook up before adding the tank back in.

I was having horrible issues with undertank kinks befroe I did this. The 30R hose is very soft stuff and kinks super easy.

Zach

[VaccaRabite]

If you have a 3 port pump, your life will be MUCH simpler if you pitch it and buy a 2 port pump. They are not super expensive, but boy do they make the undertank plumbing easier and less likely to kink. This is assuming you have your pump in the front trunk.

Zach

[bmtrnavsky]

If you have a 3 port pump, your life will be MUCH simpler if you pitch it and buy a 2 port pump. They are not super expensive, but boy do they make the undertank plumbing easier and less likely to kink. This is assuming you have your pump in the front trunk.

Zach

It's by the master cylinder. Fuel line is all replaced not. I just need to drop the tank in and connect the last two lines Pretty stoked. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[iankarr]

congrats! If you trim the under-tank hoses to 22" and add a twist to force them to coil, you'll reduce the chances of kinking. Check the 12:00 mark of this video for the trick...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IDFsZoI_W3g&t=387s