1973-914 2.0 compression issues., 914 2.0 rebuild suggestions Options

[9144me2enjoy]

I’ve a 73-914 With a the original 2.0L Fuel Injection engine. Has about 75k miles. Set for about 10 years, brought back to life about 6 months ago. Checked compression and got readings of 90-95 psi across all 4 cylinders. Engine seams to run pretty good with that compression. Doesn’t seam to smoke any while driving but some bluish smoke when you first start it up. Pulls good up to redline. I was hoping to get the compression up to a range of 135-150 psi. Without spending a lot of money, what would you recommend to improve the compression? Valve job, new rings? Who would you recommend to do the work in the area? Estimated cost, Located in Oregon. Thanks

[brant]

please adjust the valves
you are really only guessing if you haven't done that
might as well just throw dollar bills out the window as you drive.

I would NEVER even start a 10 year sitting motor without doing a valve adjustment...


your motor is tired
rebuild it or live with it
I have lived with many tired motors
it may even get better

if you do a lot of work to bring the compression back on a tired motor, you are now most likely stressing the also tired bottom end... the results will likely be that you have now changed what is the weak link in your engine... often in these scenario's you have wasted money on the top end and get to respend it when you rebuild the bottom end....

[VaccaRabite]

please adjust the valves
you are really only guessing if you haven't done that

This. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

If you have 115lbs with less than 5% deviation the engine is well loved but good to go.

Get some miles on the car and recheck the plugs after a good hot run.
If the plugs look the same try a hotter plug.
If you are burning oil it will be the guides, you likely wouldn't have even numbers if it was rings or valve seating.

Also this. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

With modern fuels your plugs will only show you what the engine was doing when you turn off the key. Its really hard to read plugs these days and get an idea of how the engine is doing under load.

Zach

[Mark Henry]

please adjust the valves
you are really only guessing if you haven't done that

This. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

If you have 115lbs with less than 5% deviation the engine is well loved but good to go.

Get some miles on the car and recheck the plugs after a good hot run.
If the plugs look the same try a hotter plug.
If you are burning oil it will be the guides, you likely wouldn't have even numbers if it was rings or valve seating.

Also this. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

With modern fuels your plugs will only show you what the engine was doing when you turn off the key. Its really hard to read plugs these days and get an idea of how the engine is doing under load.

Zach

I agree, but there is a way you can get a accurate enough reading for heat range through plug colour.
I only mention heatrange because what is the plug brand? Blue stripes ...Beru?

Plugs, Bosch or NGK, old school copper core only.
Beru are OK, Bosch clone, but they have a different numbering for heatrange.

Anyways....

Drive the car till hot, then run a freeway for 15-20 minutes, then shut it down at speed, coast to a stop, let it cool a bit and check the plugs.
Plan it out to coast stop somewhere you like and safe, you're going to be there for at least half hour or more.
You want tan but clean of soot. Can be other colours, grey, red, brown, all comparable to tan.

Everything suggested by others here, timing, valve adj., , etc should done first.