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> 123 Distributor group buy (Feb 2019), *** 10% discount, extended to March 24th ***
123ignitionusa
post Mar 18 2019, 08:02 AM
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Sounds like a Paypal issue. Give them a call.

As for the CC the billing address for the cc did not match.

Hope this helps
Ed

QUOTE(jim_hoyland @ Mar 17 2019, 10:40 PM) *

Tried the code each time too...
Tried PP first two times; then tried using a CC.
No dice

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jim_hoyland
post Mar 18 2019, 11:02 AM
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Big thanks to Ed at 1-2-3; talked with him directly and got my order in.
Great service !
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HansJan
post Mar 21 2019, 04:08 PM
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QUOTE(123ignitionusa @ Feb 17 2019, 06:45 PM) *

This looks like as good a place as any to add a few sample screenshots for those that get the programmable units. And to mention that the IE models come with both vacuum advance and vacuum retard curves to select from.
Pic #1 Vacuum advance
Pic #2 Vacuum retard
Pic #3 No Vacuum
Pic #4 Shows how to wire it up when using MSD

Hope this helps
Ed


QUOTE(settador @ Feb 17 2019, 10:04 AM) *

Hi Folks,

I'll order one, or perhaps two, on Monday. I do have some questions for you all, however, because I'm not entirely sure which one(s).

Some of the 356 guys think these are terrific too, and say the vacuum model is best. If I recall correctly, the vacuum line comes off the insulator between the carb and manifold below the throttle plate like some year 912s from the factory, implying initial advance is actuated by a decrease in manifold pressure. In other words, the vacuum line retards the timing when in full force, yes?

I ask because I intend to build a 2056 out of a GA motor I have to replace my tired 1.8. I also have a pair of Weber 40s I intend to use for that build. If I go with a vacuum model, are there insulators/spacers with vacuum ports available for Weber 40s? If not, has anyone made their own? How great is the performance advantage of the vacuum model over the mechanical only model? I imagine the initial response off idle may be significant.

I've read through the previous threads, but I'm still not entirely clear.

Thanks, Dan

[attachmentid=686
374]


Ed,
I have installed the 123 distributor (Bluetooth model).
There is no vacuum hose coming from the carburetors.
What do I do with the vacuum port on your distributor?

Additionally: Do you have recommended setpoints for this carbed 914?
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settador
post Mar 21 2019, 05:37 PM
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The following thread has a very helpful write up regarding vacuum advance. It helps explain the graphs Ed posted in response to my query. I checked my Webers for vacuum ports and fortunately they are there. Ed also offered a good explanation via telephone. I haven't installed either distributor as I haven't built either engine yet, so I can't offer anything further at this time. Hope the link helps.

Dan

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=162620
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914-300Hemi
post Apr 2 2019, 03:49 PM
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I know that I missed the group by but after fiddling with my dizzy. I finally broke down and ordered one.
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914_teener
post Apr 2 2019, 05:20 PM
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QUOTE(settador @ Mar 21 2019, 04:37 PM) *

The following thread has a very helpful write up regarding vacuum advance. It helps explain the graphs Ed posted in response to my query. I checked my Webers for vacuum ports and fortunately they are there. Ed also offered a good explanation via telephone. I haven't installed either distributor as I haven't built either engine yet, so I can't offer anything further at this time. Hope the link helps.

Dan

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=162620



Yep....saw that thread a while back.

Pay close attention in that for a stock FI 914 and depending on what year they had both manifold and ported vaccum for the dizzy pot.


When I did my 73 is used ported for the vaccum advance and the car performed flawlessly.

I know that this subject keeps coming up even though the manual that is provided specifies what to use for which setting. This is on the D-jet system that I know.

Still it is a good read and loosely defines the history of why and how it is used.
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michael7810
post Apr 6 2019, 04:05 PM
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I installed the Bluetooth unit on my 1911cc, webcam, dual IDF 40s s week. Took a couple days to get it sorted out as I had a few DAO-induced problems. Took it for a drive and head temps seemed to run cooler than usual on this particular drive but I may have been taking it easy. Very happy with the way the car runs and features of the distributor. Here’s what I learned:
1. The 123 wires up to MSD ignition exactly like the old Pertronix unit
2. MSD Blaster 2 coil resistance is too low (<1 Ohm). I installed a new Bosch blue coil
3. There are 10 video tutorials on the 123 website. I found them very helpful for my understanding how it works.
4. You can only change the curves with the ignition ON and engine NOT running
5. You can see what the unit is doing and make temporary advance changes via the Tune feature with the engin running
6. Follow the manual for paring the unit to your device the first time. Once pared here’s how to use it
6a. Turn ignition on first then open the App if you want to change curves. You can start the car after changing the curves without cycling power or reopening the App. Change the curves per the manual but when you are finished hit DONE and then WRITE or the 123 will not see the new data. If you futz with the curves and want to go back to what you started with hit DONE and then READ and the App will display what is stored in the 123
6b. Start engine first then open App if you want to drive and use the Tune feature.
7. When you open the App, make sure it connects AND reads the distributor data. You’ll see it on the App when connecting/reading.
8. To use Tune, hit Tune on the dashboard screen and use the arrows to advance or retard up to 10 degrees. This shifts the entire curve, kinda like changing the basic timing from, in my case from TDC to +/- 10 degrees. The Tune data is not stored in the 123. Once you hit TUNE again to get out of tune mode your changes disappear.
9. My curves are below. I set my timing to TDC and use the 123 to set the advance
10. Be careful handling your phone when the dashboard is open. I accidentally got into TUNE mode and retarded my timing 10 degrees TWICE during a 90 minute drive. I highly recommend a copilot to operate the device while driving.
I’m sure there’s more. If I think of anything else I’ll edit this post.
Cheers
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