FIXED: Idle weirdness, FIXED: Need a sanity check Options

[ctc911ctc]

Makes sense - that will be the fall-back plan - I will rebuild(try) this one first.

FYI there’s a guy on the samba that seems to know a lot about D-Jet, he suggests that removing the PVC valve and replacing it with a specific size orifice will smooth out idle issues. I don’t remember the size he determined.

[ctc911ctc]

************UPDATE***********

I have rebuilt the plenum (both sides of the support columns were leaky) and as a result the idle was VERY low. I now have the reverse problem, If I open up the ARR the idle is still low. If I take off the aircleaner and loosen the idle screw (all the way) still around 800-900.

Throttle works, car will rev
When driving the car runs ok, however does not have the power it used to have.
Engine is popping/missing, though the audio is not optimum, check out the video:

https://youtu.be/p5uM67DXJnk

Looking for next steps.

I have rebuilt:

throttle sensor PCB
Throttle control - does not leak, very smooth control, set spec on the electrics.
MPS - tested and perfect
PCV - seems to work
Injectors - just back from Hurst injectors - all on spec
Distributor - clean and spiffy, advance works
plugs - new
AAR - tested and works
Computer Control Unit - I have 2, have swapped them and they both perform the same.
Flow Down - on spec
Dwell set
Timing set

Many thanks in advance

CTC911CTC

[ctc911ctc]

BUMPED: for all following this thread.

**************PROBLEM SOLVED************

Picked up this car in October 2018,

I have fixed 100+ problems, some are listed above. I believe it is NOW ready for the road, it has not been registered since 1984.

When I pulled the Plenum (chasing the too rich issue) I was able to remove the CHT. Could not get a wrench on it prior. I replaced it. As I wrote above; after I got the fixed plenum back into the car, the idle adjustment screw had no effect. This according to the all knowing Anders, is the result of a car running too lean. which also caused the popping....

So I went back to the old CHT (I had not tested it, just changed it because of it's age and it is on near everyone's list of things to replace) and I found that it was open - No Good. Ahhhh, so this could be why the car is now LEAN!!!!!



I then went to the MCU and turned the dial from the all left position (I used to be chasing too rich as the result of the CHT) to something in the middle and now the car is running at what seems to be the correct mixture. No More Popping.

Changing the CHT if there are any rich/lean issues seems like a good place to start!

Next getting an O2 sensor from Mark Henry to vernier the mix-dial/idle-screw!

THANK YOU ALL TEENERS FOR THE SUPPORT! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

************UPDATE***********

I have rebuilt the plenum (both sides of the support columns were leaky) and as a result the idle was VERY low. I now have the reverse problem, If I open up the ARR the idle is still low. If I take off the aircleaner and loosen the idle screw (all the way) still around 800-900.

Throttle works, car will rev
When driving the car runs ok, however does not have the power it used to have.
Engine is popping/missing, though the audio is not optimum, check out the video:

https://youtu.be/p5uM67DXJnk

Looking for next steps.

I have rebuilt:

throttle sensor PCB
Throttle control - does not leak, very smooth control, set spec on the electrics.
MPS - tested and perfect
PCV - seems to work
Injectors - just back from Hurst injectors - all on spec
Distributor - clean and spiffy, advance works
plugs - new
AAR - tested and works
Computer Control Unit - I have 2, have swapped them and they both perform the same.
Flow Down - on spec
Dwell set
Timing set

Many thanks in advance

CTC911CTC