Something Evil Part II, Starting Over Options

[Mblizzard]

Hi Mike,
Welcome to the big motors (IMG:style_emoticons/default/evilgrin.gif) , Nice list of parts , do you plan on having the bearings
coated , calico coatings not to far away , I have had good success with them,
I might be wrong but with that parts list , I feel you should go 1 3/4 on the exhaust
system , let that that BIG motor breathe , I run the 1 7/8 system on my 2.8-4 ,
I'm assuming that the cam will have a reduced base circle
(rod to cam clearance with that stoke & bigger rod journal ) just a heads up ?,
Good luck & I'll be lookingforward to seeing it at Okteenerfest (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) , Bill D.

Yes you are correct on the exhaust. Chris Foley had already set me straight on the exhaust size. Not familiar with the coating of bearings. Tell me more.

It's a performance coating for bearings , piston skirts, piston tops,
It might be (would be) a worthwhile investment with this motor ,
have your bearings coated , piston tops coated & skirts recoated (better quality
coating) I believe Len recommends having the heads (chambers & valves) done ,
I hope this helps Bill D.

PS who is doing your timesert install for your cylinder studs ? if your doing it ,let
me know I have some tools that I made to help install them below the surface,

bearings - CT-1
piston skirts - CT-3
piston tops - CT-2

www.calicocoatings.com/coatings/

Contacted them. I like this tech?

[bahnzai]

+1 on Calico Coatings! Did this on a 3.5 930 engine build.

[Mblizzard]

Hi Mike,
Welcome to the big motors (IMG:style_emoticons/default/evilgrin.gif) , Nice list of parts , do you plan on having the bearings
coated , calico coatings not to far away , I have had good success with them,
I might be wrong but with that parts list , I feel you should go 1 3/4 on the exhaust
system , let that that BIG motor breathe , I run the 1 7/8 system on my 2.8-4 ,
I'm assuming that the cam will have a reduced base circle
(rod to cam clearance with that stoke & bigger rod journal ) just a heads up ?,
Good luck & I'll be lookingforward to seeing it at Okteenerfest (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) , Bill D.

Yes you are correct on the exhaust. Chris Foley had already set me straight on the exhaust size. Not familiar with the coating of bearings. Tell me more.

It's a performance coating for bearings , piston skirts, piston tops,
It might be (would be) a worthwhile investment with this motor ,
have your bearings coated , piston tops coated & skirts recoated (better quality
coating) I believe Len recommends having the heads (chambers & valves) done ,
I hope this helps Bill D.

PS who is doing your timesert install for your cylinder studs ? if your doing it ,let
me know I have some tools that I made to help install them below the surface,

bearings - CT-1
piston skirts - CT-3
piston tops - CT-2

www.calicocoatings.com/coatings/

Bill Set me straight on the RaceWare head studs. I saw they cam with Timecerts but thought they were optional? Because I am sticking with relatively low compression I was going to just use the standard bolt holes.

Contacted Calico but nothing yet.

[jd74914]

Contacted Calico but nothing yet.

If you're looking for some other options...

SwainTech also is known for excellent engine coatings work. Website sucks though.

Hekimian Racing does a good amount of coatings work as I understand it. Never used them for coatings, but have used them extensively for cryoing parts (mostly bike transmission) and I would imagine they do good coatings work too. Gregg is awesome and a wealth of knowledge. Another crappy website.

Might be worth cryoing your crank and perhaps some other parts. Not too expensive and people have had good results. A while ago I read on shoptalk that Jake was cryoing parts in ~75% of his big motors.

[RFoulds]

you mentioned some of your old components for sale?

whatcha got? I especially looking for heads and valves I can use.

[Mblizzard]

you mentioned some of your old components for sale?

whatcha got? I especially looking for heads and valves I can use.

Got 2 big valve heads, ported, dual springs, and opened up to fit 98mm jugs. Have one good stock 2.0 and complete set of new valves.

[RFoulds]

Sent you a PM

[Mblizzard]

Not much progress. Still waiting on machine shop. But did get to install my SpokeWorks LED lights. Super easy install and fit perfectly!

[Mblizzard]

Well more good news! Shop called and they will get to my stuff next week. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

[Mblizzard]

Bill,

On the Timesert install, I have the RaceWare install tool but I don't think it does anything for ensuring that it is flush.

Supposedly no machining is required. I have not tried to install them but it does seem like the lip on top will prevent a flush install.

What are the tools you are referring to?

[Bills914-4]

Bill,

On the Timesert install, I have the RaceWare install tool but I don't think it does anything for ensuring that it is flush.

Supposedly no machining is required. I have not tried to install them but it does seem like the lip on top will prevent a flush install.

What are the tools you are referring to?

It's just a 1/2 ball mill (for making recess c'bore / in slo-mo hand drill )
a bolt (matches threads on studs/ coarse end )
a nut with part of the hex turned down dia. smaller then the timesert shoulder
plus a tap for chasing thread (makes easier install )

the tool that comes with the studs & serts is for locking the serts in once you bury
them . it spreads the bottom of the serts so they don't back out . one at time you
bury it , if it's good then remove put loctite then rebury it ,then use tool that comes
with the serts , I hope this helps Bill D.

ps let me know if you decide to do yourself, I'll send you the tools

[Mblizzard]

Bill,

On the Timesert install, I have the RaceWare install tool but I don't think it does anything for ensuring that it is flush.

Supposedly no machining is required. I have not tried to install them but it does seem like the lip on top will prevent a flush install.

What are the tools you are referring to?

It's just a 1/2 ball mill (for making recess c'bore / in slo-mo hand drill )
a bolt (matches threads on studs/ coarse end )
a nut with part of the hex turned down dia. smaller then the timesert shoulder
plus a tap for chasing thread (makes easier install )

the tool that comes with the studs & serts is for locking the serts in once you bury
them . it spreads the bottom of the serts so they don't back out . one at time you
bury it , if it's good then remove put loctite then rebury it ,then use tool that comes
with the serts , I hope this helps Bill D.

ps let me know if you decide to do yourself, I'll send you the tools

Very smart! I don't have the ball mill but is a cheap purchase. I can make up a similar bolt assuming there is nothing special about the nut on the end? But don't have the tap. Not sure what the stock bolts thread size and pattern are but can likely find or use a stock bolt from the back side to clean the threads.

Great insight! Will let you know if I cant put together or if it turns out to be more costly than I expect.

[Mblizzard]

Well still waiting on the machine shop.

Making some progress. Got the cam gear on and prepped up my new = UK made (Jonesy) oil sump and temp sender cover. As a quick note, I was unable to get any conductivity due to the coating on the oil temp cover. Cleaned the threads of the coating and sanded a small spot on the inside of the cover near the bolt holes to be sure the sender could reach ground.

Mocked up my CFR oil coiler. Really nice stuff from Chris Foley. I was running AN 8 lines on old cooler but going to AN 10 seems like a huge increase in size. The built in thermostat in this is just amazing and Chris even provides a flap to block off air flow to the stock oi cooler location. Seems like this should help head temps as well. l

[Mblizzard]

double

[Mblizzard]

Well finally got my case back from shop.

Have some substantial 102 mm holes that Nickies fit into nicely.


Let the build begin.

[914werke]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif)

[DRPHIL914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)
awesome! looking good,
you've go less than 3 months to get that thing back in your car and down the road! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) now lets see some assembly!!

[Betty]

GO MIKE, GO MIKE, GO MIKE!!! You can DO it!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

[Mark Henry]

Well finally got my case back from shop.

Have some substantial 102 mm holes that Nickies fit into nicely.


Let the build begin.

Bigger...the 102 uses the standard 103mm cylinder size bore. I didn't see the need for timeserts/casesavers but with the ARP headstuds you would be wise to run a thread reforming tap through them.

[Mblizzard]

Well finally got my case back from shop.

Have some substantial 102 mm holes that Nickies fit into nicely.


Let the build begin.

Bigger...the 102 uses the standard 103mm cylinder size bore. I didn't see the need for timeserts/casesavers but with the ARP headstuds you would be wise to run a thread reforming tap through them.

Yes I was just test fitting them. Followed Bills direction on the method for getting the Time Certs to sit flush. Apparently the ARP bolts are smaller than stock and use an insert.

Quick question. Is there a need for a gasket between the case and the cylinder and where to get them?

Len is going to cut my heads to get the correct compression ratio. Was going to check the deck height but just thought I might need a gasket.