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> What are the trickiest parts about rebuilding one of these engines? Thanks
sjhenry1075
post May 2 2019, 12:21 PM
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I echo Mark's post about cooling tin; it's there for a reason, no matter how irrelevant it looks. Yes, I know from personal experience except in my case a friend told me "you know if you leave that off the engine will actually run cooler..."
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mepstein
post May 2 2019, 12:31 PM
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QUOTE(sjhenry1075 @ May 2 2019, 02:21 PM) *

I echo Mark's post about cooling tin; it's there for a reason, no matter how irrelevant it looks. Yes, I know from personal experience except in my case a friend told me "you know if you leave that off the engine will actually run cooler..."

People often (incorrectly) assume that the mods made for a race engine directly translate to the street.
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bbrock
post May 2 2019, 01:45 PM
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QUOTE(rhodyguy @ May 2 2019, 12:01 PM) *

I was under the impression that 'C' is the minimum. Dependent what C is on a new one there might be room for dressing it down. Do I have that correctly Jeff?


Seems clear that is correct. I was 30 years dumber when I first read that diagram and simply missed the "Wear (reject)" part of that dimension. Makes perfect sense to me now.
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Tbrown4x4
post May 2 2019, 06:33 PM
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I'm also confused by that diagram. Always thought it had a typo.

I have an NOS 4 cyl flywheel I need to get the dimensions from. I see no reason to grind the ring gear, and the only critical dimension should be "C".
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Mark Henry
post May 2 2019, 07:18 PM
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IIRC That diagram is for a 914/6 flywheel and isn't correct for a /4.
I've had brand new NOS flywheel and compared to those specs it failed.
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bbrock
post May 2 2019, 07:31 PM
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QUOTE(Tbrown4x4 @ May 2 2019, 06:33 PM) *

I'm also confused by that diagram. Always thought it had a typo.

I have an NOS 4 cyl flywheel I need to get the dimensions from. I see no reason to grind the ring gear, and the only critical dimension should be "C".


"A" is also critical but sounds like the number doesn't apply to a Type 4. Sounds like the important things when resurfacing are to take the same amount of material off the pressure plate mounting surface as is removed from the friction surface, and make sure "C" is sufficient to clear the flywheel bolts.
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Tbrown4x4
post May 3 2019, 04:55 AM
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I agree. ^^^^

My machinist was all hung up on the measurements (that he couldn't find) so he wouldn't cut my flywheel. I have 4 or 5 flywheels now, and the only one I know is junk for sure has the ring gear teeth all chewed up.

And I guess the only one I hope is good is the NOS. haha
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Superhawk996
post May 3 2019, 05:22 AM
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QUOTE(Mark Henry @ May 2 2019, 09:18 PM) *

IIRC That diagram is for a 914/6 flywheel and isn't correct for a /4.
I've had brand new NOS flywheel and compared to those specs it failed.


That would make sense because when I measured mine (used & has some wear) I measured C as 10mm with a machinist scale. Not precision for sure but I also don't see any evidence that it started much higher at one point.

I also have two other flywheels - I'll take a quick look at those this weekend.

Is there any sort of diagram or spec in the Factory manual for the four cylinder flywheel?
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sixnotfour
post May 3 2019, 09:32 AM
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QUOTE(rhodyguy @ May 2 2019, 12:01 PM) *

I was under the impression that 'C' is the minimum. Dependent what C is on a new one there might be room for dressing it down. Do I have that correctly Jeff?

yup, there is a thread,,
For reference my 914-4 flywheel uncut measured "A"22.5 and "C" 9.5.
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Tdskip
post May 3 2019, 10:01 AM
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Great stuff.

Short of splitting the case is there a way beyond oil pressure and lack of bad noises to tell if the bottom end is ok?
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Tdskip
post May 9 2019, 07:33 AM
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Good morning.

Came across this while doing more research - thought I’d post it for other first timers like me who are curious.

http://www.ephotomotion.com/914engine/index01.html

Back to my question on the bottom end - it would seem that unless you are 100% sure the bottom end is fresh it is false economy to not split the case and make sure. Yes?

Thanks!
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Bleyseng
post May 9 2019, 08:23 AM
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Yes! Most cams are pretty worn after 75,000 miles and the bearings are suspect too. Once the engine is stripped down is easy to pull it apart. Then clean clean the case and install the threaded plugs in the oil gallerys.
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rhodyguy
post May 9 2019, 09:42 AM
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You will have to tap the case for the threaded plugs.
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mepstein
post May 9 2019, 10:36 AM
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QUOTE(Tdskip @ May 9 2019, 09:33 AM) *

Good morning.

Came across this while doing more research - thought I’d post it for other first timers like me who are curious.

http://www.ephotomotion.com/914engine/index01.html

Back to my question on the bottom end - it would seem that unless you are 100% sure the bottom end is fresh it is false economy to not split the case and make sure. Yes?

Thanks!

Yes. There is always something and while it might have gone another 5k, who wants to tear it down a second time.
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Tdskip
post May 9 2019, 10:45 AM
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Oh fine - steer me towards doing it right. Some help you guys are.

Thanks!

BTW - we should really get some people together to do this and film it and then post it back here to help other members of the community.
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sixnotfour
post May 9 2019, 12:21 PM
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QUOTE(Tdskip @ May 9 2019, 10:45 AM) *

Oh fine - steer me towards doing it right. Some help you guys are.

Thanks!

BTW - we should really get some people together to do this and film it and then post it back here to help other members of the community.



there s a video ...jake did ???

https://vwparts.aircooled.net/Bug-Me-Video-...build-vol-8.htm
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Montreal914
post May 9 2019, 01:53 PM
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I have really enjoyed Van Svenson's website for hints, rebuild process and videos. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Not a stock engine though.

http://www.ephotomotion.com/914engine/
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iankarr
post May 9 2019, 01:57 PM
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QUOTE(Tdskip @ May 9 2019, 12:45 PM) *

Oh fine - steer me towards doing it right. Some help you guys are.

Thanks!

BTW - we should really get some people together to do this and film it and then post it back here to help other members of the community.

I'd be happy to produce it....
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Tdskip
post May 9 2019, 02:02 PM
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QUOTE(cuddy_k @ May 9 2019, 02:57 PM) *

QUOTE(Tdskip @ May 9 2019, 12:45 PM) *

Oh fine - steer me towards doing it right. Some help you guys are.

Thanks!

BTW - we should really get some people together to do this and film it and then post it back here to help other members of the community.

I'd be happy to produce it....



OK. So we’ve got an engine, machine shop wind up, producer, now we need a coach to make sure I assembled properly and a good way to film it.

Let me ping Evan
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