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> Mounting hubcentric wheels on a 71
AlterFX
post May 2 2019, 05:13 AM
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Knowing my car is lugcentric What issues would I run into and or what steps would I need to take to mount a hubcentric wheel if possible?

Thanks ahead of time!
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Superhawk996
post May 2 2019, 05:46 AM
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You won't have issues actually physically mounting them. That is assuming all things like wheel offset, Tire OD, etc. are kept the same and you don't have physical interference's.

What you will still have in the end is a lug centric wheel since you don't have a pilot on the rear hubs to make them hub centric.

You can rotate the wheel/rim assembly on the hub and measure radial runout to see close it is. You can also fiddle with trying to achieve low radial runout and then tightening the lug nut. However, since the lug nuts seat into a concave seat, it will tend to pull the wheel back to whatever lug centric position the lugs/hub dictate.

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AlterFX
post May 2 2019, 06:14 AM
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QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ May 2 2019, 05:46 AM) *

You won't have issues actually physically mounting them. That is assuming all things like wheel offset, Tire OD, etc. are kept the same and you don't have physical interference's.

What you will still have in the end is a lug centric wheel since you don't have a pilot on the rear hubs to make them hub centric.

You can rotate the wheel/rim assembly on the hub and measure radial runout to see close it is. You can also fiddle with trying to achieve low radial runout and then tightening the lug nut. However, since the lug nuts seat into a concave seat, it will tend to pull the wheel back to whatever lug centric position the lugs/hub dictate.



You mention wheel offset. I’m looking into from “Braid” and I can get a custom offset as well. What would you recommend for a 16x8 wheel with Fiberglass flares from AA?
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914Sixer
post May 2 2019, 06:15 AM
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If you are not going for originality, upgrade to 73 struts. Most can be had inexpensively. Requires that you change ball joints, rotors, backing plate and new style calipers. Most sellers will give you a package deal.
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AlterFX
post May 2 2019, 06:51 AM
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QUOTE(914Sixer @ May 2 2019, 06:15 AM) *

If you are not going for originality, upgrade to 73 struts. Most can be had inexpensively. Requires that you change ball joints, rotors, backing plate and new style calipers. Most sellers will give you a package deal.

Know of anyone selling something like that?
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914Sixer
post May 2 2019, 07:47 AM
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Just put a WTB in classified. Should be some people in the Great Northwest that can fix you up cheap
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Optimusglen
post May 2 2019, 07:49 AM
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QUOTE(914Sixer @ May 2 2019, 07:15 AM) *

If you are not going for originality, upgrade to 73 struts. Most can be had inexpensively. Requires that you change ball joints, rotors, backing plate and new style calipers. Most sellers will give you a package deal.


Can you use the same shocks? I may be considering this route but have a pretty fresh set of Bilsteins I'd rather not part with.
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rhodyguy
post May 2 2019, 07:52 AM
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I have a COMPLETE front end out of a 75'. Soup to nuts. All intact. Bolt it on and go. You being in Vancouver, it would be far cheaper to drive to Tacoma to pick it up rather than shipping. An hour and 1/2 or so each way. I imagine shipping would be north of a C-note. Multiple boxes.
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914Sixer
post May 2 2019, 11:29 AM
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Yes, just swap your shocks.
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wes
post May 2 2019, 12:54 PM
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QUOTE(AlterFX @ May 2 2019, 05:14 AM) *

QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ May 2 2019, 05:46 AM) *

You won't have issues actually physically mounting them. That is assuming all things like wheel offset, Tire OD, etc. are kept the same and you don't have physical interference's.

What you will still have in the end is a lug centric wheel since you don't have a pilot on the rear hubs to make them hub centric.

You can rotate the wheel/rim assembly on the hub and measure radial runout to see close it is. You can also fiddle with trying to achieve low radial runout and then tightening the lug nut. However, since the lug nuts seat into a concave seat, it will tend to pull the wheel back to whatever lug centric position the lugs/hub dictate.



You mention wheel offset. I’m looking into from “Braid” and I can get a custom offset as well. What would you recommend for a 16x8 wheel with Fiberglass flares from AA?


You might also want to look into the fiberglass flares versus steel. If you’re going to attach them with fasteners as some due that is a personal thing but if you’re blending them into the body they tend to separate with time. The fiberglass flares are cheaper but if you ever sell the car most people look down on them and a sale could be more of a problem.
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