![]() |
|
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG.
This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way. Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners. |
|
![]() ![]() |
![]() |
CheeRS |
![]()
Post
#41
|
Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 93 Joined: 5-May 19 From: Paris France Member No.: 23,093 Region Association: France ![]() |
this screw is not original.
Why make this ? Perhaps there is a link with the fact the additional air valve was not pluged, so not available. But the problem is that the installation unable the WOT thottle position Attached thumbnail(s) ![]() |
billh1963 |
![]()
Post
#42
|
Car Hoarder! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,408 Joined: 28-March 11 From: North Carolina Member No.: 12,871 Region Association: South East States ![]() |
I've seen a picture like that before... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)
Before my valve seat dropped I noticed my temperatures were running hotter than normal. Once I pulled the engine I noticed the thermostat had failed...and it failed closed! Yes, someone in the past used a the Mexican made type I thermostat that fails closed ![]() |
CheeRS |
![]()
Post
#43
|
Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 93 Joined: 5-May 19 From: Paris France Member No.: 23,093 Region Association: France ![]() |
Hello,
Heads, pistons and cylinders are at the machinist shop. Now the long block is fully cleaned and I discovered severals scraches than are crossing the engine. Some pics Attached thumbnail(s) ![]() |
CheeRS |
![]()
Post
#44
|
Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 93 Joined: 5-May 19 From: Paris France Member No.: 23,093 Region Association: France ![]() |
more
Attached thumbnail(s) ![]() |
CheeRS |
![]()
Post
#45
|
Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 93 Joined: 5-May 19 From: Paris France Member No.: 23,093 Region Association: France ![]() |
Is the block dead ?
Attached thumbnail(s) ![]() |
CheeRS |
![]()
Post
#46
|
Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 93 Joined: 5-May 19 From: Paris France Member No.: 23,093 Region Association: France ![]() |
last one
Attached thumbnail(s) ![]() |
CheeRS |
![]()
Post
#47
|
Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 93 Joined: 5-May 19 From: Paris France Member No.: 23,093 Region Association: France ![]() |
with nail we feel an angle so the block has moved
|
Dave_Darling |
![]()
Post
#48
|
914 Idiot ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 15,204 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California ![]() ![]() |
We would call those "cracks", not "scratches".
If the cracks get into precisely machined areas, like where the cam and the crank run, the case is junk. If it is important to have that specific case with that specific serial number, a really good machinist can probably cut out the cracks and weld them up, then re-machine everything so it is in spec again. If the cracks do not run into those areas, there's a very good chance that they will spread into those areas. Again, a very good machinist may be able to drill the ends of the cracks and stabilize everything, but that is probably not going to be a permanent solution. The damage looks to be around the lifter holes. I would be the most concerned about the camshaft bores, because having one of those move will kill the motor pretty quickly. I wonder if that could be related to the "Type IV Syndrome", where someone over-tightens the nut holding the sump plate onto the bottom of the motor? This can bend one of the through-bolts that the oil pickup hangs from, and crack the case around it. Distressingly common. If you have access to another case, I would suggest using it. That's the simplest way to move forward. If you do not, either find one or find a really good machinist who can weld and machine the existing case. --DD |
sixnotfour |
![]()
Post
#49
|
914 Wizard ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 10,912 Joined: 12-September 04 From: Life Elevated..planet UT. Member No.: 2,744 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() ![]() ![]() |
out side of case,,get a die kit,,,casting flaws ??
Attached image(s) ![]() |
ChrisFoley |
![]()
Post
#50
|
I am Tangerine Racing ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 7,990 Joined: 29-January 03 From: Bolton, CT Member No.: 209 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
I see casting lines, not cracks.
|
Jetsetsurfshop |
![]()
Post
#51
|
Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 815 Joined: 7-April 11 From: Marco Island Florida Member No.: 12,907 Region Association: South East States ![]() |
|
Dave_Darling |
![]()
Post
#52
|
914 Idiot ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 15,204 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California ![]() ![]() |
Well, if Chris says they're not cracks, believe him over me!!!
--DD |
sixnotfour |
![]()
Post
#53
|
914 Wizard ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 10,912 Joined: 12-September 04 From: Life Elevated..planet UT. Member No.: 2,744 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I Pointed to a true solution ...not an opinion..
|
Bleyseng |
![]()
Post
#54
|
Aircooled Baby! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 13,036 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Seattle, Washington (for now) Member No.: 24 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() |
|
McMark |
![]()
Post
#55
|
914 Freak! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,180 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None ![]() |
|
CheeRS |
![]()
Post
#56
|
Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 93 Joined: 5-May 19 From: Paris France Member No.: 23,093 Region Association: France ![]() |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/drunk.gif)
Thanks and CheeRS. now two more questions : Where find the thermostat than open the cooling air flaps ? If not available, is it a solution to leave them open and if so how ? Thanks |
Montreal914 |
![]()
Post
#57
|
Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,868 Joined: 8-August 10 From: Claremont, CA Member No.: 12,023 Region Association: Southern California ![]() ![]() |
I think someone on The Samba is rebuilding them. Not sure this is him. You want to use the accordion type so that if it fails, the flaps will stay open.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/det....php?id=1319589 Also, if you are going with 96mm P/C, therefore 2056cc, you might need to re-calibrate the MPS on the D-Jet (then again maybe not if you are keeping the stock camshaft), others will chime in on that. You should consider a cylinder head temperature gauge with the thermocouple washer under the spark plug. Bonne chance! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) |
CheeRS |
![]()
Post
#58
|
Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 93 Joined: 5-May 19 From: Paris France Member No.: 23,093 Region Association: France ![]() |
You should consider a cylinder head temperature gauge with the thermocouple washer under the spark plug. Could you explain ? Thanks for the help (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
Bleyseng |
![]()
Post
#59
|
Aircooled Baby! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 13,036 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Seattle, Washington (for now) Member No.: 24 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() |
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/pag...prod/prd347.htm
This gives you instant readings of your head temps as you don't want to go over 425 degrees. I recommend getting your heads combustion chambers thermal coated to stop the heat sinking and protect the from damage due to heat. |
Montreal914 |
![]()
Post
#60
|
Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,868 Joined: 8-August 10 From: Claremont, CA Member No.: 12,023 Region Association: Southern California ![]() ![]() |
I've been using this one:
http://thesensorconnection.com/cht-sensors...foaAk90EALw_wcB The key is to have the thermocouple wire (which are two specific materials) run from the washer all the way to the gauge. So you will want to order a sensor with long enough wire to go from engine compartment and route it to the dash. Never extend it with copper wire as you will have a false reading. It is recommended to install the sensor on Cylinder #3 sparkplug as it is known to have the least amount of cooling due to the engine configuration. |
![]() ![]() |
![]() |
Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 19th July 2025 - 02:14 PM |
All rights reserved 914World.com © since 2002 |
914World.com is the fastest growing online 914 community! We have it all, classifieds, events, forums, vendors, parts, autocross, racing, technical articles, events calendar, newsletter, restoration, gallery, archives, history and more for your Porsche 914 ... |