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> Fuching DJet issues *SOLVED*, Running out of things to try
BeatNavy
post Jul 6 2019, 04:36 AM
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Just to be clear, I believe there's only one setting (not adjustment) for TPS - it's either calibrated correctly or it is not. It is easiest to do it by removing it, but I have done it while still mounted on TB/plenum. I don't think that's your issue.

What curve are you using for the 1-2-3, and are you using advance or retard on the port?

FWIW, once I installed the 1-2-3 I noticed that the idle speed was very sensitive to fuel mixture compared to the other dizzy that came with this engine (which was not correct, it turns out). With the 1-2-3 it does idle rock steady, but no matter what I do I really can't get idle below 1000 even with bypass screw all the way in. I try to run idle A/F around 13.5 to 14.5 to keep it steady around 1000. If I go richer than that I get idle closer to 1100/1200, IIRC. Much leaner and it will start to hunt. I also chased vacuum leaks for a long time, to the point of swapping out plenums and trying to spray carb cleaner everywhere, but I never found anything.

I can't recall, is this stock 2.0 or 2056? If stock, and the MPS holds a pretty steady vacuum and is correct for your ECU, then that shouldn't be the issue.

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rjames
post Jul 6 2019, 08:59 AM
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Stock 2.0 liter with correct/matching FI parts. MPS holds vacuum.
113 dizzy is set to ‘B’ to retard the timing at idle (like my stock setup).
If vacuum leaks are gone, seems like that only leaves adjusting the MPS? Before my old MPS went bad, the car idled at 900 rpms.
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rjames
post Jul 14 2019, 07:42 PM
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Beyond frustrated now.
Started again from the beginning- timing.
My fan only has a single mark- a red one, notched at 7.5 degrees from TDC. I can’t find any other evidence of another fan like mine.

I guess maybe I’ve been tuning it from the wrong mark for the last 10 years (?!) as back then I used pelican’s template to find the 27 advance mark off of the 7.5 mark.

Verified where TDC and 27 BTDC actually was. Car now starts and idles high when cold (too high) and then when it warms up it dies and won’t start again.
WTF? Before I could get it to idle, albeit high, now it won’t run after it warms up.

Setting the timing to where it was doesn’t change anything. I feel like it’s flooding when trying to restart. Engine seems hot- distributor gets too hot to touch after several attempts to restart it. Fuch this thing. Getting ready to push the car off a cliff.
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914_teener
post Jul 15 2019, 10:06 AM
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QUOTE(rjames @ Jul 6 2019, 07:59 AM) *

Stock 2.0 liter with correct/matching FI parts. MPS holds vacuum.
113 dizzy is set to ‘B’ to retard the timing at idle (like my stock setup).
If vacuum leaks are gone, seems like that only leaves adjusting the MPS? Before my old MPS went bad, the car idled at 900 rpms.


Send us a picture how you have routed your vaccum lines to the 123.

My quess is that you are using manifold vacumm instead of ported vacuum.

Post a pic.
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rjames
post Jul 17 2019, 12:27 AM
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QUOTE(914_teener @ Jul 15 2019, 09:06 AM) *

QUOTE(rjames @ Jul 6 2019, 07:59 AM) *

Stock 2.0 liter with correct/matching FI parts. MPS holds vacuum.
113 dizzy is set to ‘B’ to retard the timing at idle (like my stock setup).
If vacuum leaks are gone, seems like that only leaves adjusting the MPS? Before my old MPS went bad, the car idled at 900 rpms.


Send us a picture how you have routed your vaccum lines to the 123.

My quess is that you are using manifold vacumm instead of ported vacuum.

Post a pic.


123 retard is connected to the retard port on the throttle body. There is no advance port on the throttle body on the later cars. That said, issue is the same even if the hose is disconnected from the distributor left unplugged.
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rjames
post Aug 17 2019, 06:55 PM
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Issues fixed. Had multiple things going on. Distributor vacuum canister leaked. Replaced with the 123 distributor.

Tiny vacuum leak ended up being a worn throttle body linkage shaft (at least that’s what I’m calling it). Was a very minor leak, but a leak just the same. It didn’t show up on the smoke test I did, but it did show up when I tried pressurizing the system. Replaced with a NOS throtyle body I found on ebay (got lucky there, price was reasonable, too). It doesn’t have the safety spring like the later models, but I doubled up on the TB return spring for piece of mind.

Engidlebidles at a perfect 950rpm.

Next step was to tune the air fuel mixture. The rebuilt MPS I got from Jeff had been reset to factory default settings, but was way too lean for my car as I had originally thought. I adjusted the MPS using Chris/Tangerine Racing MPS adjustment tools in conjunction with the Plex wideband sensor I installed last year.
My AFR is now 13.5 at partial load, and 12.5 at WOT. Idle is at 12.2. I may try bringing the idle mixture up a bit with the ECU knob.

The car drives fantastic. Having a steady idle after 12+ years of ownership is a thing of beauty. And just in time to enter the car into the Edmonds car show in Sept 8th!

What a journey! Although extremely frustrating at times, I sure learned a lot through the process.

Thanks for all the input/help from everyone!
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914werke
post Aug 17 2019, 08:18 PM
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Great news! Come on out tommorow for lunch at the Diamond Knot!
...with the car
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Tdskip
post Aug 17 2019, 09:22 PM
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Excellent news
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rjames
post Aug 17 2019, 10:49 PM
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QUOTE(914werke @ Aug 17 2019, 07:18 PM) *

Great news! Come on out tommorow for lunch at the Diamond Knot!
...with the car ������


Wish I could join you. Already had plans for a family gathering. I know these get together aren’t easy to make happen, but hopefully there will be another one soon.
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falcor75
post Aug 18 2019, 05:01 AM
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Congrats on solving it.
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BeatNavy
post Aug 18 2019, 05:25 AM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

In addition to having a solid running car you now know a boat load more about it, particularly D-Jet. Hardest problems to solve are the compound ones, where multiple issues send mixed signals making the troubleshooting process a bear.

Way to stick with it, and congrats!
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76-914
post Aug 18 2019, 08:55 AM
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QUOTE(rjames @ Aug 17 2019, 05:55 PM) *

Issues fixed. Had multiple things going on. Distributor vacuum canister leaked. Replaced with the 123 distributor.

Tiny vacuum leak ended up being a worn throttle body linkage shaft (at least that’s what I’m calling it). Was a very minor leak, but a leak just the same. It didn’t show up on the smoke test I did, but it did show up when I tried pressurizing the system. Replaced with a NOS throtyle body I found on ebay (got lucky there, price was reasonable, too). It doesn’t have the safety spring like the later models, but I doubled up on the TB return spring for piece of mind.

Engidlebidles at a perfect 950rpm.

Next step was to tune the air fuel mixture. The rebuilt MPS I got from Jeff had been reset to factory default settings, but was way too lean for my car as I had originally thought. I adjusted the MPS using Chris/Tangerine Racing MPS adjustment tools in conjunction with the Plex wideband sensor I installed last year.
My AFR is now 13.5 at partial load, and 12.5 at WOT. Idle is at 12.2. I may try bringing the idle mixture up a bit with the ECU knob.

The car drives fantastic. Having a steady idle after 12+ years of ownership is a thing of beauty. And just in time to enter the car into the Edmonds car show in Sept 8th!

What a journey! Although extremely frustrating at times, I sure learned a lot through the process.

Thanks for all the input/help from everyone!

A huge congratulations to you. I like your approach; check everything and repair it. Newbies take note: these are 50 year old cars. You cannot rely upon any 50 year old part. Looks like your good for another 50 now! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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Jett
post Aug 18 2019, 09:33 AM
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Great persistence. My car is at Chris’s German auto and the more they touch it the worse it gets... I’ll have Chris call you to get this fixed (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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DRPHIL914
post Aug 18 2019, 09:39 AM
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Way to go!! Good for you for hanging in there. As usual
With d-jet it’s always related to the distributor, vac function and leaks, and the MPS. I have yet to see a MPS that once “set to factory specs” that has not been too lean and needed to be adjusted less lean. Sounds like you nailed it and those are good numbers!
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Rand
post Aug 18 2019, 04:11 PM
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Thanks for sharing the solutions. Often people don't.
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ssuperflyoldguy
post Aug 18 2019, 11:03 PM
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appreciate the write ups, diagnosis & help from everyone. So many threads on the internet never have closure (like what finally solved it) - Bonus, I have a 75, removing smog too but it's a 2.0 with Bus Heads - this thread will help me get mine back running (I hope, parked it a few years ago because it was running rough and I smelled fuel) have it up on jackstands finally and will install my stainless steel fuel lines soon!

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