smokey car, On de-acceleration I get smoke from my tail pipe :( |
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smokey car, On de-acceleration I get smoke from my tail pipe :( |
mitchdiego1 |
Jun 17 2019, 10:40 AM
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#1
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 42 Joined: 19-May 19 From: oceanside ca Member No.: 23,145 Region Association: Southern California |
Hi all, I am new here. So wished I found this site years ago. Lots of good info!!!! Any way, I am getting a lot of smoke on de-acceleration after my 1976 2.0L has warmed up. I was thinking my oil rings were sticking. Also thinking maybe valve guides? The engine was rebuilt in 2000 and I really only drove it until 2005 as a daily driver. The transmission went bad and it wasn't really driven. House and 2 teenage daughters came first. I would putt around at least once a month. I could go on and on so longer story short I have been driving it since 2015 and it has been smoking like I said. A little on acceleration not bad though. Any info would help. Other than that it runs great and my 914 is going into the shop soon for new paint so I am going to pull the engine and transmission. (PS I originally posted this in the wrong forum. duh)
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oakdalecurtis |
Jun 17 2019, 11:54 AM
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#2
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Oakdalecurtis Group: Members Posts: 1,327 Joined: 5-June 15 From: Oakdale, Ca Member No.: 18,802 Region Association: Central California |
Hi Mitch, I have a 76 2.0 also, and it also smoked a little on deceleration. And yes, the smoke is probably from worn rings or valve guides. Much has been said in this forum about motor oils for our cars, so I won't go over it again. Try using some Brad Penn 20/50 Racing oil, ordered online. When I switched to that oil, my engine's smoking stopped completely. The oil is not cheap, but compared to an engine rebuild, it's chump change.
This oil has higher levels of ZDPP to protect older engines. Also, use only a Royal Purple 20-253, Mahle OC-28, or Mann W920/17 oil filter, also ordered online. Change oil filter from below, on passenger side of engine block near firewall. PAN PLUG TORQUE IS ONLY 16 ft/lbs, and SUMP PLUG IS ONLY 9.4 ft/lbs. Any more torque will cause BIG damage to engine. Install a new crush washer (AutoAtlanta has them) on the pan plug, with the washer seam TOWARD the bolt head. NEVER let an oil change shop do the oil change, as they are clueless and will over torque the plug and damage the engine. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) |
mitchdiego1 |
Jun 17 2019, 03:07 PM
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#3
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 42 Joined: 19-May 19 From: oceanside ca Member No.: 23,145 Region Association: Southern California |
Hi Mitch, I have a 76 2.0 also, and it also smoked a little on deceleration. And yes, the smoke is probably from worn rings or valve guides. Much has been said in this forum about motor oils for our cars, so I won't go over it again. Try using some Brad Penn 20/50 Racing oil, ordered online. When I switched to that oil, my engine's smoking stopped completely. The oil is not cheap, but compared to an engine rebuild, it's chump change. This oil has higher levels of ZDPP to protect older engines. Also, use only a Royal Purple 20-253, Mahle OC-28, or Mann W920/17 oil filter, also ordered online. Change oil filter from below, on passenger side of engine block near firewall. PAN PLUG TORQUE IS ONLY 16 ft/lbs, and SUMP PLUG IS ONLY 9.4 ft/lbs. Any more torque will cause BIG damage to engine. Install a new crush washer (AutoAtlanta has them) on the pan plug, with the washer seam TOWARD the bolt head. NEVER let an oil change shop do the oil change, as they are clueless and will over torque the plug and damage the engine. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Sweet thanks. Going online to get the correct oil and filter today! |
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