Push Rod Tube Seal Leak Options

[collinvon]

It's pretty straightforward, just be sure to see how it's in there (pics prior to disassembly help) and make sure it goes back in correctly.

It's basically held in the slot on the rocker shaft bracket by spring pressure, and keeps pressure on the end of the tube. In doing my first rebuild a few years ago (35) I mistakenly trapped the spring under the rocker shaft bracket and was fortunate to find the problem before it killed my engine.

Sounds good! Thanks again for all the info. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[collinvon]

Alright, so I was able to pull the motor this last weekend, and it really wasn't too bad at all.

I had a new set of DANSK push rod tubes come in today, one is pretty messed up on both ends:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-23207-1561484540.1.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-23207-1561484541.2.jpg)

So I'm hoping to be able to clean and reuse one that's already on there.

Has anyone used these before? I'm curious if they hold up well.

Second question: Do I have to remove them one cylinder at a time with said cylinder being at TDC?

And third question/finding:
I was trying to check my valve measurements before I pull the rockers, and it was either a miracle the car was running, or I am doing something incorrectly.
I was able to see the notch on the flywheel and the notch on the fan, both at the top of the engine and they lined up perfectly. I'm assuming that means I'm at either TDC for one or three. I had the distributor cap off as well, and when it was pointing to cylinder one, there was no play at all in the rockers for either intake or exhaust on cylinder one and I am unable to get a feeler gauge in there at all. There was play on cylinder 2 intake and cylinder 4 exhaust. Also worth noting, that there was no play at all on cylinder three either. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but it is my understanding that I should be able to adjust both intake and exhaust for cylinder one when it is TDC, and 2 intake and 4 exhaust at the same time?

[iankarr]

No, you don't need to be at TDC when you pull the tubes / rods. But definitely keep track of which rod is which, and it couldn't hurt to note the orientation as well.

Sucks about that damaged tube. The flanges aren't really critical, since only the O-rings contact the bore...but I'd be concerned that the tube is out of round. Good idea to just re-use the best of your old ones.

Yes, if the flywheel notch aligns with the case split and the fan mark is visible in the front notch, you should be at TDC on #1.

If you have chromoly pushrods, 'loose zero' would be normal. Just loose enough to spin the rod, but not enough to put in a feeler gauge.

As for the "Cap'ns method" of adjusting other valves when 1 is at TDC...it makes perfect sense, but I find it confusing when I'm under the car. It only saves a few revolutions of the flywheel and doing one at a time is easier to keep straight. Not worth it for me, but maybe for people who abbreviate the month "June" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[MarkV]

I always use the Crusty method. Just seems easier to me.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=28758

[collinvon]

No, you don't need to be at TDC when you pull the tubes / rods. But definitely keep track of which rod is which, and it couldn't hurt to note the orientation as well.

Sucks about that damaged tube. The flanges aren't really critical, since only the O-rings contact the bore...but I'd be concerned that the tube is out of round. Good idea to just re-use the best of your old ones.

Yes, if the flywheel notch aligns with the case split and the fan mark is visible in the front notch, you should be at TDC on #1.

If you have chromoly pushrods, 'loose zero' would be normal. Just loose enough to spin the rod, but not enough to put in a feeler gauge.

As for the "Cap'ns method" of adjusting other valves when 1 is at TDC...it makes perfect sense, but I find it confusing when I'm under the car. It only saves a few revolutions of the flywheel and doing one at a time is easier to keep straight. Not worth it for me, but maybe for people who abbreviate the month "June" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Thanks again for the advice! Shouldn't I be able to check the current adjustments for cylinder one when it's at TDC? I guess that's where most of my confusion is at the moment.

[collinvon]

I always use the Crusty method. Just seems easier to me.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=28758

Hey Mark,

Thanks for the link! As I mentioned to Cuddy, I don't have any clearance at all right now for cylinder 1 at TDC, which seems like a big issue because the tolerances are so small. However, the motor was running fairly well before I pulled it out.

[IronHillRestorations]

Just make sure you are on TDC#1 not #3. If the engine is on a stand, I do one set at a time, which requires more rotations of the crankshaft

[Mcraneiowa]

I currently have my engine out. Can the engine be placed on end as it would be easier to view everything since I don’t have an engine stand. Would it have any effect on lifters, etc. being on its end while replacing the tube seals. About ready to start this process, just a bit more grime to clean up!

[isdyl]

Hi - sorry to butt in with a quick question, but I'm just fixing a leak at the moment and am a bit stuck. I thought I was just going to change the tube seals, but have found one tube has a hole in it! It's one that won't slide out fully annoyingly, so does this mean I have to take the engine out please?? I really hope not. Is there another option like maybe lowering the engine a bit somehow?
Regards, Dylan

[iankarr]

If that tube has a hole in it anyway, maybe just bend it till it comes free?

Also. @ironhillrestorations is right...When you think you're at #1 TDC, pull the distributor cap and ensure you're pointing to the #1 terminal. If you're at #3, you need to go round again.

@Mcraneiowa Way easier to work on the engine when it's on a stand. If you tilt it on its side be prepared for an oily mess. You can get a stand at HF cheep and a yoke from this guy...
https://www.thesamba.com/vw//classifieds/de...l.php?id=606308

[isdyl]

Thanks but I still need to get a new tube back in. Although I've bought a new set of tubes, I I'm considering repairing the hole in the tube now to avoid moving the engine. Does anyone know what temperature these tubes get to please?
Thanks

[maj75]

The tubes are drain back routes for oil from the head. If you rotate that tube so that the hole is at the top, no oil should leak out. Maybe some oil vapor, condensation. Should get you by until you can pull the motor.

[ndfrigi]

If you just want to replace one tube for now, I think you can lower the rear tranny by placing a floor jack to support the middle between engine and tranny (under the flywheel area) then loosen the bolts of both side of the engine mount bar by the engine support console and also loosen or unbolt tranny mount so you can lower the rear tranny until you get the tube out away from the suspension console mount.

Or place one floor jack in the middle of the mount bar and one floor jack in the middle of tranny. Just make sure to be very careful when you start lowering the rear tranny and not damaging the engine mount bar bolts. I’m sure you get the idea with this.

[ClayPerrine]

If you put a floor jack under the engine crossbar, then remove the bolt holding that side of said crossbar to the chassis, you should be able to drop that side of the motor down far enough to get the pushrod tube out of the head.

You may need to loosen the other side of the crossbar to get enough movement.


Good luck!

Clay

[isdyl]

Thank you all - I'll give it a go!
Regards, Dylan

[isdyl]

Hi, I've changed one tube and repaired the hole in the other with JB Weld Extreme Heat. I think there's a fair chance it won't last long but I'm just going try it. I'm just struggling with this funny wire retainer. Is there a diagram somewhere of how it should go please? It was in the wrong place previously and has damaged my push rods.

[IronHillRestorations]

Sorry, I don't have pics. The slot in the rocker shaft retainers goes to the bottom and that's where the upper bends of the retaining wire goes, the lower bends go against the end of the push rod tube. You have to put the rocker shafts in first and then the wire.

[isdyl]

Ah, ok thanks - I'll put the rocker shafts in and hopefully it will be clearer. That's great.
Regards, Dylan

Sorry, I don't have pics. The slot in the rocker shaft retainers goes to the bottom and that's where the upper bends of the retaining wire goes, the lower bends go against the end of the push rod tube. You have to put the rocker shafts in first and then the wire.

[isdyl]

Ok I think I got it in correctly. It's quite tricky because of the access but your description was actually quite good thanks. I found it's important to get the spring against the tube ends first and then bend into the slots. If the spring goes down the tube by accident it's quite hard to bend into the slots anyway.
The leak is now just from the cover gasket!

Ah, ok thanks - I'll put the rocker shafts in and hopefully it will be clearer. That's great.
Regards, Dylan

Sorry, I don't have pics. The slot in the rocker shaft retainers goes to the bottom and that's where the upper bends of the retaining wire goes, the lower bends go against the end of the push rod tube. You have to put the rocker shafts in first and then the wire.