9-4-green Options

[AZBanks]

914Werke powdercoated tins. The originals were so nasty and rusty, I didn't even try to save them.

[AZBanks]

I media blasted, cleaned, and painted the push pod tubes. What a PITA!!!!

Next time I'm just buying new ones. Halfway through the process with these I was tempted to scrap them but I am under a time crunch and don't have time to wait for a shipment. At least they look halfway decent.

I used the McMaster X shaped seals. I found that they worked best if I seated them and then pulled the tubes and seated them a second time. I used the sealant/gasket maker that Mark Henry recommended. if they leak, I'm going to Canada and kicking his butt. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif) .

[AZBanks]

As usual, I spent twice as much time cleaning oil and crap of the various parts of the engine and refinishing things as I did taking it apart and putting it together.

It's true, just because you can't tell, doesn't mean it didn't happen.

[AZBanks]

Getting cooler.

[AZBanks]

Time to get off the computer and get this thing back together and back in the car.

[AZBanks]

Ready to be installed.

[AZBanks]

In and ready to be buttoned up. I still had a lot of work to do on the AC system at this point but I was thrilled that it all fit with the AC compressor mounted. With the old York compressors, you had to cut out a section of the engine shelf.

[tygaboy]

OK, so now it's MY turn:
Who said you could have mismatched painted components on your engine stand?
914 Design Committee, indeed...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

[AZBanks]

OK, so now it's MY turn:
Who said you could have mismatched painted components on your engine stand?
914 Design Committee, indeed...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

I checked with a higher authority.

https://revsinstitute.org/wp-content/upload...ont3_4-high.jpg

[AZBanks]

Is there a good temporary fix for a broken clutch tube in the tunnel?

[michael7810]

Is there a good temporary fix for a broken clutch tube in the tunnel?

It’s been a while but I remember something like remove the shifter and install a U-bolt around the tube with the ends and nuts on the outside of the tunnel near the driver’s legs. That will hold it in place until you can have it properly welded.

[StarBear]

Sweet! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[AZBanks]

Based on the quality of the work I am seeing, one or more of the PO's of this car really liked to diversify when hiring companies to work on this car.

They apparently hired Barilla, Riscossa, and De Cecco, Inc. to handle a lot of the wiring.

They must have hired Sawyer, Krueger, and Voorhees, Inc. to create the access holes in the tunnel.


The holes in the tunnel are not very clean/neat but they do give me access to some parts of the tunnel.

My question is if I really need to have them closed up when I am done fixing the issues with the clutch tube.

[AZBanks]

The clutch tube at the firewall.
The cable housing is pulling into the tunnel every time I push in the clutch pedal.

[AZBanks]

Temporary fix. Leftover aluminum from the AC condenser mount project.
It keeps the clutch cable housing from pulling into the tunnel when I push in the clutch pedal.

[AZBanks]

Some of this info is in the Rt 66 thread but I though I would add it here just to keep the info together.

I got the engine in and everything but the AC evaporator and wiring done in time to drop the car at Don Jackson Enterprises Tuesday moning. DJ tuned it to pass emissions and I picked it up early Wednesday afternoon(6/23/2021).

It was on the rollers at emissions testing when I noticed the fan was not turning. Not the AC fans but the fan that is attached to the crankshaft. The engine was running but the fan was not turning. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stromberg.gif)


I first installed this engine months ago. I had replaced the front crank seal before that install but I did not properly tighten the bolt that holds the fan attachment to the crank. I tightened it but not to the correct spec. That allowed the fan attachment to shear the woodruff key.

I towed the car home from the emissions testing facility.




At 8pm Wednesday night, I started dropping the engine, pulling the fan, scavenging the woodruff key off the 1.7 liter that was originally in the car and then putting it all back together.
The clutch tube fix was part of the Wednesday night wrenchfest.
I got it all back together at 10 am.
I took a nap and hit the road.
My son and I got to Santa Fe around 2:00 am and the car ran pretty well all weekend.

[AZBanks]

Other than a few random no-starts where it had to be pushed a little and a wire connection that came loose at the distributor, NARP ran great for the whole Rt 66 classic.

We were the car with the least HP and we struggled on a few of the hills above Santa Fe where the elevation climbed to over 10,000 feet.

We drove the whole trip and then parked the car in the garage for the week for a well deserved rest.
Tonight was a car show and firewoorks.

Pulling into the garage I got out to check the garage floor for drops of oil and found...


NONE!!!!

I still need to clean up some wiring and finish the AC system but NARP is officially back on the road and running great!

[AZBanks]

I am looking for some input on a intermittent start issue.

Sometimes the car starts right up. Other times, I turn the key and I get nothing. No clicks like a low battery, just nothing.
When that happens, it will always fire up when push started. It just doesn't start with they key.

I have Mark Henry's Ford solenoid upgrade installed and it was/is working great. When the key start works, it is really strong.
When the key start doesn't work, it is a complete failure.
The no start is getting more frequent. I am thinking it is the ignition key module/switch. I think it is failing.
Any other parts I should look at?


Exiting a July 4th Car Show/Fireworks.

[AZBanks]

We have a new problem, the headlights pop up but they don't turn on. Is this a known/easy fix?

[AZBanks]

It turned out to be loose wires in the rats nest some PO created under the dash. I replaced a bunch of wires but didn't have time to fix everything that was/is wrong under there. The headlights are working correctly just in time to send it in to the body shop.