Driven Oil, For Aircooled engines Options

[IronHillRestorations]

It's formulated specifically for air cooled engines

Sorry but this is a marketing statement, I need actual details.

Sorry I was in a hurry. That's the one sentence summary of the 15 min tech talk Charles Navarro gave on this oil last year at Octeenerfest. I fogot it's on the bottle. I'd personally rank DT50 as the first choice for oil in an air cooled engine

[Chi-town]

@mlindner DT40 is an ancient additive package and has been shown in analysis to actually test out as a 30wt not it's advertised 40wt. Pick up a jug of Motul Xcess 5w-40, you'll get a great tried and tested oil in the actual viscosity you're looking for, and you'll save some cash.

I am curious how many miles you put on your 993 and if you ever had the valve covers off?

@IronHillRestorations - sorry didn't mean to sound like a jerk was just looking for more data

[bbrock]

Street oils have different additive packages than race oils because they are for different proposes and the engines are not serviced as often.

Things like detergents and friction modifiers in street oil are built around longevity (thousands of miles) not race capability (few hundred miles).

The amount of these additives and which ones are based on data collection, years of research, and real world testing.

I'm not saying Driven oil isn't good, just saying it may not be the best choice for street cars.

I see on the Driven website they list this as a "street performance oil." Not the data you are looking for but seems to indicate they had street use in mind for the formulation.

https://www.drivenracingoil.com/dt50-5w-50-...rmance-oil.html

[Rand]

There may be proposes (as said). This topic will always come back around again..again. Will the answers be the same?

[JFJ914]

Most "racing" oils have ZDDP levels higher than the oils back before emissions got involved.

Driven Racing Oil used to be Joe Gibbs Racing oil
It's custom made by Lubrizol
https://www.lubrizol.com/Lubricant-and-Fuel-Additives

Looks like their formulations lack the normal detergents in the additive package (who doesn't like deposits in their engines? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif))
Loaded with ZDDP

Unless someone independent of Jake or Driven wants to run it and then send it out for analysis after 3k miles

I would not consider this a street oil, racing would be fine due to frequent changes and engine refreshes.

Not to start a S--T Storm, but what are your "Oil Expert" credentials? We are all highly opinionated individuals on this board, and I know oil is like religion so try to be helpful. I know that you did not build a camshaft "Spinatron" to test almost every oil in search of the answer as to why cams and lifters suddenly started failing. Jake and Charles did. You did not post the results to the board as Jake and Charles did. The recommendation to use Brad Penn 10-15 yrs ago came from Jake and Charles, they had no financial interest in making that recommendation, just the interest of the community.

The Driven oil project came about because Brad Penn's formulation changed and Jake thought he could do better. Driven DT-50 (and only DT-50) became Jake's aircooled go to oil. In spite of your opinion DT-50 is not a racing oil. Driven makes a lot of racing oils, but DT-50 isn't one of them.

So,MY opinion is use DT-50. I've used it since 2013 with good results.

Remember, it's your money and your engine. You pays your money and you takes your choice. Choose wisely.

[Superhawk996]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[Gint]

Where do you buy this magic oil?

[JFJ914]

Where do you buy this magic oil?

Google Driven DT-50 Oil. Lots of places. I got mine on Amazon Prime, free shipping.

[Gint]

Where do you buy this magic oil?

Google Driven DT-50 Oil. Lots of places. I got mine on Amazon Prime, free shipping.

That's a winner. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

[Gint]

Tuns out I still have a case of Joe Gibbs DT40 in the garage. Haven't tried it yet. I guess it's time. Some reading is in order...

[mlindner]

Chi-town. DT40 and DT50 both are the tools of choice for LN Engineering and Flat6. Lots of good oils out there, these just seem to fit me well. Best, Mark

[Chi-town]

Not to start a S--T Storm, but what are your "Oil Expert" credentials? We are all highly opinionated individuals on this board, and I know oil is like religion so try to be helpful. I know that you did not build a camshaft "Spinatron" to test almost every oil in search of the answer as to why cams and lifters suddenly started failing. Jake and Charles did. You did not post the results to the board as Jake and Charles did. The recommendation to use Brad Penn 10-15 yrs ago came from Jake and Charles, they had no financial interest in making that recommendation, just the interest of the community.

To answer your question I am not an oil expert, my expertise is in automotive data collection which I've been doing for 20+ years with everyone from OEM powertrain evaluation to professional formula race teams.

I agree with you oil opinions are everywhere and discussing the points can be hazardous to your mental well being. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

I've seen almost every oil manufacturer come onto one forum or another and put on a great dog and pony show.

A spinatron is an old way of testing oil and a heavy additive package can make any oil look good on it. (Remember the old Slick50 and Prolube commercials?)

It does not show you the nature (organic or synthetic) or the quality of the base stock or the additive package.

The easiest way to tell if an oil is worth the money is to have a virgin sample and a a sample after you have used it in your application and have them independently analyzed. This eliminates the opinion from the decision making process.

As I always tell people, do your homework and don't believe the internet. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

[914_7T3]

Can anyone else speak to the claim of running 20 degrees cooler with the DT50? Many also recommend Brad Penn 20w 50. I am getting closer to the point of the first oil change and would like the best possible protection.

Also have heard many opinions on when to change the break in oil, is that at 100 miles, 300 miles, 500 miles or up to 1,000.

Would love to get more feedback from those more knowledgeable.

[jfort]

My friend and mechanic, and as good an air cooled mechanic as there is, has switched to Driven. I will too for the next change.

[flat4guy]

Since it is already 100+ here in nor cal I may have to try this, thanks for the post. Showing $16.99 a qt at Summitt, is that about right?

[Big Len]

$16.99 a quart? Better provide some clear scientific evidence that it's worth it. VR-1 is half that.

[mb911]

I have been using liqui moly classic now and it seems to be just fine for 95% of the aircooled cars out there..

[914_7T3]

Since it is already 100+ here in nor cal I may have to try this, thanks for the post. Showing $16.99 a qt at Summitt, is that about right?

$12.89 Here

https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/DV-02806

[type2man]

Bottom line, MOST of the people on here do not drive their cars 12k-20k miles a year. Can you justify a $80 oil change compared to 3 $25 oil changes on a 10k mile a year oil change. I would much rather change my oil 3 times, than once with a supposedly better oil.

[mepstein]

It would cost almost $200 to change the oil in my 6 conversion.