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> Breaking in New Engine, Leaks...crankcase pressure?
Olympic 914
post Dec 19 2019, 08:06 AM
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Just sticking this in here..

More ring gap stuff,

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=232536&hl=

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BeatNavy
post Dec 19 2019, 08:31 AM
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QUOTE(Olympic 914 @ Dec 19 2019, 09:06 AM) *

Just sticking this in here..

More ring gap stuff,

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=232536&hl=

Tom, good stuff. I recall reading that article that's linked there.

Interesting, in your thread, you say instructions weren't included with the KB pistons. I don't think mine were either. To be fair (to me), I generally DO read instructions (if they are included). To be fair (to them), I have to believe one or both rings probably broke during initial install - my own lack of experience. If that's the biggest and really only mistake I made on my first T4 build, I'll be happy. It didn't require splitting the case.
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Superhawk996
post Dec 19 2019, 08:43 AM
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QUOTE(BeatNavy @ Dec 19 2019, 09:31 AM) *


To be fair (to them), I have to believe one or both rings probably broke during initial install - my own lack of experience. If that's the biggest and really only mistake I made on my first T4 build, I'll be happy. It didn't require splitting the case.



What did you use for a ring compressor? Really should be little risk of breaking a ring on install. Shouldn't take much effort at all to slide the piston into the cylider. If it hangs up for any reason, stop.

I've had terrible luck with those U shaped compressors. Junk in my opinion.

I use a Lisle spring steel compressor that encompasses the whole piston. I've never had any issues using this type.

https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/ring-compressor-79

Use lots of oil, lube the ID of the spring compressor, and the piston should slide right in with only light taps from the wooden end of a mallet on the cylinder and/or a slight twisting motion (hard to get on VW's on the stud (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) ) My compressor has 3 or four little nubs on the bottom side to sit on the top/bottom (for VW's) of the cylinder and keep the compressor from moving into the cylinder as you tap. A bit trickier with VW's going in from the bottom. They also offer a slick VW style "Take Apart" version. I just make do with mine and take it uncoil it to a large OD that will slip over the cylinder after the piston is in. A bit of a PITA but it works.

I might just buy one of the Lisle take aparts this next trip around given the cost isn't that high but somehow I've always made do with the other one both for VW's, for the Norton, for an old Honda motorcycle engines, etc.

https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/t...ring-compressor

The other trick that works in a pinch on small OD pistons is a very thin aluminum sheet (i.e. pop can) and a hose clamp. I believe the trick is to get complete encirclement of the ring so there is nothing to catch the cylinder lip as the piston/ring enters the bore. That is what the U shapped compressors lack.
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BeatNavy
post Dec 19 2019, 08:52 AM
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QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ Dec 19 2019, 09:43 AM) *

QUOTE(BeatNavy @ Dec 19 2019, 09:31 AM) *


To be fair (to them), I have to believe one or both rings probably broke during initial install - my own lack of experience. If that's the biggest and really only mistake I made on my first T4 build, I'll be happy. It didn't require splitting the case.



What did you use for a ring compressor? Really should be little risk of breaking a ring on install. Shouldn't take much effort at all to slide the pison into the cylider. If it hangs up for any reason, stop.

I've had terrible luck with those U shaped compressors. Junk in my opinion.

I use a Lisle spring steel compressor that encompasses the whole piston. I've never had any issues using this type.

https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/ring-compressor-79

Use lots of oil, lube the ID of the spring compressor, and the piston should slide right in with only light taps from the wooden end of a mallet. My compressor has 3 or four little nubs on the bottom side to sit on the top of the cylinder and keep the compressor from moving into the cylinder as you tap.

I used some generic, cheaper version of that one in your link. It works fine except it is a little tricky at first -- you really need to push down on it (on the top of cylinder) to make sure you have an even seal all the way around while tightening and installing. If you don't, one of the oil scrapers or compression rings might catch an edge. Might also have been exacerbated by the smaller ring gaps I initially had. That may have been my problem the first go-round. After the re-gapping everything went in much easier.

Yes, if you encounter a hang-up, stop and start over. Good advice!
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