Any one knows this car?, For sale in Houston. Options

[mankowski]

I don't know the car, and am also wondering what you may know about it that might help others remember what they may know. One pic has seats, another doesn't, and there is blue tape all over in one but not the others -- looks like it has been worked on across the time the pics were taken.

[914forme]

Ditch the cage, beyond that great idea, my first car I did with my father was a 1967 Jeep CJ-5, next was a 1974 Karmann Ghia, after that we moved onto several other cars, trucks, and vans.

Memories that will last the rest of my life.

Need parts like lights etc... I will gladly donate some head light stuff, I have both sides assemblies, wiper motor assembly.

Just PM me with a list of what you need and I will gladly help so you two can build some found memories also. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[HansJan]

Thanks for the input.
Indeed it would need a bunch of parts to make it right.
Original hood and light assemblies come with the car.
Although my son likes it better with the headlights-delete as it is now.

VIN is not in the world database.
Also included is:
Original seats (that need rebuilding)
Extra set of wheels

Any idea about fair value?

Here are some pics.

[jmitro]

don't know the car but looks like a fun project.
when I was 15 I wanted to buy a rotted out 57 Chevy as my first car. glad my dad talked me out of it. I ended up with a 73 VW bug (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[HansJan]

I will get to see this car tomorrow.
Looking for comments and opinions from all of you.

If the car is solid, the plan would be to make it a suitable streetcar (but not a daily driver). I rather have my son working on his car then playing with his phone on the couch.

Comments on the following are especially appreciated.

My own 914 has carbs and an uncluttered engine bay, so I get lost looking at the picture below. Please chime in.

Are Aluminum Kirkey Racing Seats a Pro, or a Con?

Are retrofit Projector Headlights good enough?

See Picture of Oil-cooler. Isn't this a little overboard for a 1.8L? If I get a smaller one below the rear trunk, would the hole in the frunk be suitable for an AC heat exchanger?

Oh Yes.. the roof fits.






Thanks everyone (Don't hold back)

[SirAndy]

Don't hold back

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/grouphug.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[914forme]

Okay well here is where I would start.

Kirkeys are fine, can become a pain in the ass / lower back, young kids don't care. 914 stocks are better, Stephan's sets are the best for long trips.

Ditch the cage even if the top fits, your head will not survive a hit with the cage.

Projectors retrofitted could work @Gint would now for sure as one of his cars has a set he is driving to Okteenerfest with it right now.

A lot of oil cooler for a 1.8L unless it is not a 1.8L, but judging from the EFI it is a 1.8L. It could be needed if other cooling systems where not up to the task. The 1.8L with L-Jet is a nice engine, I ran one for a while with the 96mm pistons and jugs to make it 1995cc motor, short stroke 2.0L was great fun. Did not need an external oil cooler on it.

If your son likes all of this stuff then great, the cage has to go, as been said a 100 times (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dead horse.gif)

If it runs and moves under its own power and you don't see the ground it is a good starting point.

Keep it running and driving and fix small things at a time. I can not count on my fingers and toes how many "project" cars I purchased where people got discourage by it not running, no site at the end of the tunnel to get it going, I lost interest, etc....

[HansJan]

Okay well here is where I would start.

Kirkeys are fine, can become a pain in the ass / lower back, young kids don't care. 914 stocks are better, Stephan's sets are the best for long trips.

Ditch the cage even if the top fits, your head will not survive a hit with the cage.

Projectors retrofitted could work @Gint would now for sure as one of his cars has a set he is driving to Okteenerfest with it right now.

A lot of oil cooler for a 1.8L unless it is not a 1.8L, but judging from the EFI it is a 1.8L. It could be needed if other cooling systems where not up to the task. The 1.8L with L-Jet is a nice engine, I ran one for a while with the 96mm pistons and jugs to make it 1995cc motor, short stroke 2.0L was great fun. Did not need an external oil cooler on it.

If your son likes all of this stuff then great, the cage has to go, as been said a 100 times (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dead horse.gif)


If it runs and moves under its own power and you don't see the ground it is a good starting point.

Keep it running and driving and fix small things at a time. I can not count on my fingers and toes how many "project" cars I purchased where people got discourage by it not running, no site at the end of the tunnel to get it going, I lost interest, etc....

That’s great advise.
Thanks.

[brcacti]

Not trying to be a dick, but i don't think any teenager should have a sports car with a roll cage for their first car, even if it's "just" powered by a 1.8L T4.

You are asking for a lot of trouble ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

You have to drive these cars VERY CAREFULLY if you want to live. I'm 66 and my ONLY accident I have ever had was in one of these, went on a ramp fairly fast and hit gravel and I was spinning like a globe. Was VERY LUCKY not to have killed myself as I did not flip. Getting that car for your son could be his first and last car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)

[Craigers17]

HansJan,

Were you able to go and look at the car? If so, if you don't mind me asking, what's the verdict? This looked like a good deal for a project,...I wondered how it actually looked and functioned in person.

[Superhawk996]

You have to drive these cars VERY CAREFULLY if you want to live. I'm 66 and my ONLY accident I have ever had was in one of these, went on a ramp fairly fast and hit gravel and I was spinning like a globe. Was VERY LUCKY not to have killed myself as I did not flip. Getting that car for your son could be his first and last car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)

Not sure I agree fully. Need to drive anything with due care. Perhaps the reason you lived to tell the tale is that the 914 has a very low CG and IS NOT prone to rolling over.

Try the same thing in a high CG SUV and it WOULD have rolled.

I will grant you that modern car with Electronic Stability Control (ESC)would have prevented the spin and potential to roll via Roll Stability Control that is part of ESC in modern cars. However, many of us that are on this site lived and thrived during an era where the electronic nanny's weren't riding shotgun with us.

Please teach your kids to drive (rules of the road), but, more importantly, kids need to learn car control skills (i.e. maximize braking, skid control, visualization of the road). Car control skills are not taught by drivers education and can really only be learned by hands on driving.

Get your kids out on Go-kart tracks, Auto-X, what used to be called SCCA Solo 1 (i.e. single car track day - one car on track at a time). That will save lives.

https://www.drivingskillsforlife.com/abouta...at-is-ford-dsfl

[914forme]

You have to drive these cars VERY CAREFULLY if you want to live. I'm 66 and my ONLY accident I have ever had was in one of these, went on a ramp fairly fast and hit gravel and I was spinning like a globe. Was VERY LUCKY not to have killed myself as I did not flip. Getting that car for your son could be his first and last car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)

Not sure I agree fully. Need to drive anything with due care. Perhaps the reason you lived to tell the tale is that the 914 has a very low CG and IS NOT prone to rolling over.

Try the same thing in a high CG SUV and it WOULD have rolled.

I will grant you that modern car with Electronic Stability Control (ESC)would have prevented the spin and potential to roll via Roll Stability Control that is part of ESC in modern cars. However, many of us that are on this site lived and thrived during an era where the electronic nanny's weren't riding shotgun with us.

Please teach your kids to drive (rules of the road), but, more importantly, kids need to learn car control skills (i.e. maximize braking, skid control, visualization of the road). Car control skills are not taught by drivers education and can really only be learned by hands on driving.

Get your kids out on Go-kart tracks, Auto-X, what used to be called SCCA Solo 1 (i.e. single car track day - one car on track at a time). That will save lives.

https://www.drivingskillsforlife.com/abouta...at-is-ford-dsfl

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) 100%



I raced dirt bikes, then when I almost killed myself on a street bike at 16 I switched to go carts, at 18 I was Auto-xing. Have done it ever since. And even still sometimes stuff just gets away. On the auto-x course if you don't spin your not pushing hard enough.


Lots of places to gain skills in a controlled environment, that can in an emergency situation transfer to life on the streets. More you practice these skills the better you are when you don't have time to think about it, just do.

[HansJan]

The seller came to my home yesterday to show it to me.
I have decided not to purchase it (unless its super duper cheap).
Asking price is $4,500. I offered $2,000. So there is no deal.
The car needs a bunch of work, and is "almost" at the point of no-return to be roadworthy. But for AutoX it should be fine.

Here is what I have seen.

Paint is cheaply done, but decent shape.
There are rust bubbles where the cowl meets the front quarter panels. Repairing that will mess up the paint. The gaps between cowl and quarter panel have been hidden (with bondo?) and this is where the bubbles are.

Door gaps look to be narrower on top then bottom. But when jacking up the car at the jacking point the gaps don't move. Chassis seems stiff. The gage could be instrumental in this.

Longs The rocker panels were still on, so I couldn't really see the longs. But from what I did see there was not too much rust. And I did jack-up the car through those square tubes.

Donuts were dented etc, but not rusted out. Right rear showed some rust behind the donut.

Hell-hole is not great but also not bad.

frame stiffening was done around the rear wheel wells and suspension.

Floor board on passenger side had a 10"-12" piece of sheetmetal welded in. Done by an amateur worse then me.

besides these areas there was not too much rust.


Sway bars are present front and back (backside disconnected).

There are heat exchangers, but the hoses are missing, so no heat inside the cabin.

Shift linkage and bushings are acceptable. Shifter itself feels short.

Booths around shift linkage point, as well as around the CV-Joints are in good condition.

There is a major 18' crack in the windshield.

Side windows roll up fine, But all rubbers around them are gone. Passenger window crank is missing.

Passenger outer door handle does not work.

Sound dampening materials are absent.

Rain tray is present. One funnel present and one funnel missing.

Engine # starts with EC (US model)

Oil leak, left some drops of oil on my floor.

Outside mirrors missing.

Peddleboard missing.

The pop-up headlights are replaced by extremely bright white LED's in the side markers. But the originals are included in a box.

Hood is polyester (but original is included separately).

No visible cracks in the light lenses.

Backup lights don't work.

Blinkers don't work.

Speedometer not working

Charging system works (battery in good condition).

There are some additional gauges.

Tires: Front are worn-out, rears 50%


The wiring in and around the dashboard area is a mess. You will be like an airplane pilot, flipping a bunch of switches before take-off. Turning the key doesn't do anything besides avoiding steering-wheel lock.

The dashboard itself is basically non-existent (not sure how to describe this.

Starter motor turned but did not engage (might need the McMarck Solenoid solution).

Consider buying share in 914Rubber.com or AA, because the buyer would need lots of parts (carpet kit, mirrors, all rubbers, dashboard,...…).

The engine runs nicely and idles calmly. Although the cover of one of the control units is missing.

Even if you're not doing any hood-sliding, you still need to be one of the Duke-brothers to get into this car with roll-gage. I'm only 49 and not even 6'3", but getting in was an event all by itself.

Seller is somewhat flexible with the price.

Br,
Hans Jan

[HansJan]

[rjames]

The seller came to my home yesterday to show it to me.
I have decided not to purchase it (unless its super duper cheap).
Asking price is $4,500. I offered $2,000. So there is no deal.
The car needs a bunch of work, and is "almost" at the point of no-return to be roadworthy. But for AutoX it should be fine.

Here is what I have seen.

Paint is cheaply done, but decent shape.
There are rust bubbles where the cowl meets the front quarter panels. Repairing that will mess up the paint. The gaps between cowl and quarter panel have been hidden (with bondo?) and this is where the bubbles are.

Door gaps look to be narrower on top then bottom. But when jacking up the car at the jacking point the gaps don't move. Chassis seems stiff. The gage could be instrumental in this.

Longs The rocker panels were still on, so I couldn't really see the longs. But from what I did see there was not too much rust. And I did jack-up the car through those square tubes.

Donuts were dented etc, but not rusted out. Right rear showed some rust behind the donut.

Hell-hole is not great but also not bad.

frame stiffening was done around the rear wheel wells and suspension.

Floor board on passenger side had a 10"-12" piece of sheetmetal welded in. Done by an amateur worse then me.

besides these areas there was not too much rust.


Sway bars are present front and back (backside disconnected).

There are heat exchangers, but the hoses are missing, so no heat inside the cabin.

Shift linkage and bushings are acceptable. Shifter itself feels short.

Booths around shift linkage point, as well as around the CV-Joints are in good condition.

There is a major 18' crack in the windshield.

Side windows roll up fine, But all rubbers around them are gone. Passenger window crank is missing.

Passenger outer door handle does not work.

Sound dampening materials are absent.

Rain tray is present. One funnel present and one funnel missing.

Engine # starts with EC (US model)

Oil leak, left some drops of oil on my floor.

Outside mirrors missing.

Peddleboard missing.

The pop-up headlights are replaced by extremely bright white LED's in the side markers. But the originals are included in a box.

Hood is polyester (but original is included separately).

No visible cracks in the light lenses.

Backup lights don't work.

Blinkers don't work.

Speedometer not working

Charging system works (battery in good condition).

There are some additional gauges.

Tires: Front are worn-out, rears 50%


The wiring in and around the dashboard area is a mess. You will be like an airplane pilot, flipping a bunch of switches before take-off. Turning the key doesn't do anything besides avoiding steering-wheel lock.

The dashboard itself is basically non-existent (not sure how to describe this.

Starter motor turned but did not engage (might need the McMarck Solenoid solution).

Consider buying share in 914Rubber.com or AA, because the buyer would need lots of parts (carpet kit, mirrors, all rubbers, dashboard,...…).

The engine runs nicely and idles calmly. Although the cover of one of the control units is missing.

Even if you're not doing any hood-sliding, you still need to be one of the Duke-brothers to get into this car with roll-gage. I'm only 49 and not even 6'3", but getting in was an event all by itself.

Seller is somewhat flexible with the price.

Br,
Hans Jan

That is a beautiful write up/PPI.

[Craigers17]

The seller came to my home yesterday to show it to me.
I have decided not to purchase it (unless its super duper cheap).
Asking price is $4,500. I offered $2,000. So there is no deal.
The car needs a bunch of work, and is "almost" at the point of no-return to be roadworthy. But for AutoX it should be fine.

Here is what I have seen.

Paint is cheaply done, but decent shape.
There are rust bubbles where the cowl meets the front quarter panels. Repairing that will mess up the paint. The gaps between cowl and quarter panel have been hidden (with bondo?) and this is where the bubbles are.

Door gaps look to be narrower on top then bottom. But when jacking up the car at the jacking point the gaps don't move. Chassis seems stiff. The gage could be instrumental in this.

Longs The rocker panels were still on, so I couldn't really see the longs. But from what I did see there was not too much rust. And I did jack-up the car through those square tubes.

Donuts were dented etc, but not rusted out. Right rear showed some rust behind the donut.

Hell-hole is not great but also not bad.

frame stiffening was done around the rear wheel wells and suspension.

Floor board on passenger side had a 10"-12" piece of sheetmetal welded in. Done by an amateur worse then me.

besides these areas there was not too much rust.


Sway bars are present front and back (backside disconnected).

There are heat exchangers, but the hoses are missing, so no heat inside the cabin.

Shift linkage and bushings are acceptable. Shifter itself feels short.

Booths around shift linkage point, as well as around the CV-Joints are in good condition.

There is a major 18' crack in the windshield.

Side windows roll up fine, But all rubbers around them are gone. Passenger window crank is missing.

Passenger outer door handle does not work.

Sound dampening materials are absent.

Rain tray is present. One funnel present and one funnel missing.

Engine # starts with EC (US model)

Oil leak, left some drops of oil on my floor.

Outside mirrors missing.

Peddleboard missing.

The pop-up headlights are replaced by extremely bright white LED's in the side markers. But the originals are included in a box.

Hood is polyester (but original is included separately).

No visible cracks in the light lenses.

Backup lights don't work.

Blinkers don't work.

Speedometer not working

Charging system works (battery in good condition).

There are some additional gauges.

Tires: Front are worn-out, rears 50%


The wiring in and around the dashboard area is a mess. You will be like an airplane pilot, flipping a bunch of switches before take-off. Turning the key doesn't do anything besides avoiding steering-wheel lock.

The dashboard itself is basically non-existent (not sure how to describe this.

Starter motor turned but did not engage (might need the McMarck Solenoid solution).

Consider buying share in 914Rubber.com or AA, because the buyer would need lots of parts (carpet kit, mirrors, all rubbers, dashboard,...…).

The engine runs nicely and idles calmly. Although the cover of one of the control units is missing.

Even if you're not doing any hood-sliding, you still need to be one of the Duke-brothers to get into this car with roll-gage. I'm only 49 and not even 6'3", but getting in was an event all by itself.

Seller is somewhat flexible with the price.

Br,
Hans Jan

That is a beautiful write up/PPI.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Sorry it didn't work out, but thanks for the write up!

[Andyrew]

Expecting a running driving 914 to be less than 4k in any condition right now is a bit rediculous right now... That price seams really good for a toy, and especially a first car...

Also to the Nat Sayers ... I bought my 914 at age 14, and had a V8 in it at 16... Any boy is going to do some racing as a kid .. almost better to be in a dog shit slow 914 than a modern car that's way faster... Gets them involved in track driving right off the bad and learning car control.... Also forces them to learn to wrench.

[HansJan]

[quote name='Andyrew' date='Sep 14 2019, 02:30 AM' post='2746931']
Expecting a running driving 914 to be less than 4k in any condition right now is a bit rediculous right now... That price seams really good for a toy, and especially a first car...

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

It’s just not right for us.
To make it roadworthy you need to add at least $4K to the equation.
For the combined $8K there are better starters out there.

[rhodyguy]

Knowing when to walk away is a good thing. I don't think that additional 4K would get the job done. The shipping total for replacement parts could be a bit dear. No telling how the chassis would react after the cage is cut out. The bar at knee level looks like pain waiting to happen.

[914forme]

Wow somebody is actually thinking, (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) an 8K car is most of the time better than a 4K car. You know this one, so it can be a back up plan. In this area, that would be a great project base to start with.

I would have asked away from your offer also. It is worth a bit more in parts. But then it is about $450 in scrape (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)