74 Roller rebuild and Subaru conversion, 1974 rebuild and Subaru conversion project Options

[mgarrison]

Thanks! Really appreciate the feedback...

I don't currently have any sway bars front or rear, but definitely something I need to keep in mind/plan for in the future! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[mgarrison]

I got started on my header modification. Definitely not my forte! Really feel like I'm floundering along with several do-overs already, and at least one more do-over I can already see coming...Ugh! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

I sliced up the header and got it ready to completely replace the first runner.


I ordered this cutting template to help with the process. Seems ok, but not super...


After fiddling around a bit I got the new runner at least tacked in place.


A bit more slicing & splicing.

[mgarrison]

Test fitting what I've completed so far...



No real clue if I'm going to be able to fully finish weld all these joints, but I'll give it a shot for sure. Messing around with the "collector" (its pretty sketchy given what I paid for the headers, IMO). Trying to see where/how I can pull all three tubes back together and get the exhaust over the axle (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif)

[Lilchopshop]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

Glad to see you’re back at it! I really enjoyed making the exhaust for mine.

[76-914]

These things are a game changer when fabricating an exhaust system.

[mgarrison]

Yea, I got frustrated enough trying to hold tubes together I just ordered the clamps Chris showed in one of his Ferrari 914 videos. Not cheap, but they pivot to clamp bends too. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[mgarrison]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

Glad to see you’re back at it! I really enjoyed making the exhaust for mine.

You're a better man than I am...I'm not exactly "enjoying" the header work! A bit too tedious and time consuming for the time I have available to work on it. Feels like I'm just getting going when it starts to get dark and I've got to button things up again for the night.

[mgarrison]

Well, I got the headers reassembled and pointing where I can use them...maybe. Really challenging trying to get in there for some of the welds - know I'll have some holes, but maybe good enough to at least test run the engine one day. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[mgarrison]

My welds sure fit the "Frankenstein/Mad Max" theme anyway!


While I was waiting for a weekend I could reinstall the engine, I decided to tackle the tunnel opening I cut out to clean and treat for rust.

[mgarrison]

More CAD design (IMG:style_emoticons/default/type.gif)


I still need to run the brake and clutch lines through here along with the wiring for engine sensors, etc. At least it's easily removable for modification, etc.

[mgarrison]

The blue stuff was just a cover that came on a bandsaw blade - thought I'd give it a quick try as a "seal" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) Split vacuum tube or something sure would look better! Figure I'll spray this black, or maybe even with Raptor liner so it hides it better.

[mgarrison]

I got the engine back in on Sunday. As my daughter says, I was on the struggle bus and it took way too long! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Got there eventually though.

Seems to be quite a bit of room for the rest of an exhaust system. I just need to find some mufflers that will fit the space on each side.

[mgarrison]

My neighbor walked over while the 914 was out front and we started discussing driveline angles. I cut a couple of lengths of PVC to mock up the axle angles and it sure looks like I should move the engine/trans as far to the rear as possible. It's currently pushed all the way forward. I have about 2" I can slide it back, but that means I will need to redo my trans mount!


I've been debating upgrading to a TIG welder...Given I still need to complete the rest of the exhaust, weld in a plate for the Tilton pedal cluster, and now redo the transmission mount, maybe it's better justified (or rationalized!) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

I would even be able to make the trans mount from stainless to match the stainless cradle... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

[76-914]

My neighbor walked over while the 914 was out front and we started discussing driveline angles. I cut a couple of lengths of PVC to mock up the axle angles and it sure looks like I should move the engine/trans as far to the rear as possible. It's currently pushed all the way forward. I have about 2" I can slide it back, but that means I will need to redo my trans mount!


I've been debating upgrading to a TIG welder...Given I still need to complete the rest of the exhaust, weld in a plate for the Tilton pedal cluster, and now redo the transmission mount, maybe it's better justified (or rationalized!) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

I would even be able to make the trans mount from stainless to match the stainless cradle... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

Looking really nice Mike. You don't need TIG to do SS. Just use SS wire in your MIG. They recommend using a different gas but I've used std 25-75 with great results. IMHO, (go ahead and throw rocks at me Ben (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) ) SS weld better than steel if you ask me. Keep up the GREAT work Mike. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[mgarrison]

My neighbor walked over while the 914 was out front and we started discussing driveline angles. I cut a couple of lengths of PVC to mock up the axle angles and it sure looks like I should move the engine/trans as far to the rear as possible. It's currently pushed all the way forward. I have about 2" I can slide it back, but that means I will need to redo my trans mount!


I've been debating upgrading to a TIG welder...Given I still need to complete the rest of the exhaust, weld in a plate for the Tilton pedal cluster, and now redo the transmission mount, maybe it's better justified (or rationalized!) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

I would even be able to make the trans mount from stainless to match the stainless cradle... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

Looking really nice Mike. You don't need TIG to do SS. Just use SS wire in your MIG. They recommend using a different gas but I've used std 25-75 with great results. IMHO, (go ahead and throw rocks at me Ben (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) ) SS weld better than steel if you ask me. Keep up the GREAT work Mike. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

I only have a little HF flux core welder, no MIG. But, I did just order a new TIG setup so hopefully my welds will improve in the future and I can finally weld aluminum stuff too (assuming I have the required skills!) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

[mgarrison]

I did receive my Outfront Motorsports headers. I briefly tried to test fit them and as is typical they need to occupy the exact same space as the crossbar for the engine cradle. You know the part that holds the motor mounts for the engine! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

Now I need to pull the engine and trans out and start to ponder what solution might be the best option. Because the support angles forward it gives me much less room than I need (cradle is a knock-off of the early Coldwater cradle).

I tried emailing Ian at Coldwater again to see if he has any of his new revision of the cradle that accommodates the Outfront headers, but no response now to several emails...wondering if Ian has stopped his side hustle for good...?

I'll plan on posting some pics of my current challenge once I have the engine and trans back out.

One step forward, two steps back. I was never any good at that "two-step" dancing thing! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

Even though I have the EG33, I had to cut my Outfront Motorsports headers not far from the cojoined 3 pipes and I used pre bent pipes to finish off my pipe routes.
I'm not familiar with the bushings you use on the mounting points of the cradle...what is the purpose of those? I mounted my cradle directly to the front and rear mounting points, thinking that it strengthens the rear of the car and the stock Subaru mounts isolate the vibrations of the engine. It seems that they may not be needed and could give you more ground clearance as well.

Not 100% sure, honestly. I've seen a bit of everything done by various folks here. Some use stock rubber mounts. Some hard mount. Some use Subaru transmission mount and some hard mount the transmission to the cradle. Not sure there's any real consensus on the best method. I was trying to land in the middle somewhere. Ground clearance seems ok from what I see...unless I have to run the headers UNDER the cradle. That would make things too tight I think and seems like a bad idea.

I need to take some more measurements, etc. Really wondering if there's room for ANY kind of header given where the cross support lands right under the exhaust heads. Thought about exchanging the Outfront headers I have for the ones that go forward towards the front and then using a U pipe to bring them back to the rear. Not sure what will fit (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

Mike, do as Michael suggests. Hard mount the cradle to the body and use the factory mounts. It strengthens the body. Re: transmission studs. As long as they terminate ~5.5" above ground your good. The factory plastic air flaps are ~5.5" above ground (on my 914) so I figured anything at or above 5.5" is as safe as the floor pan in the cabin. I also made it a point to have the oil pan clear that dimension also. IIRC, someone just modified an OutFront header to clear but I forget the process. It might have been posted on our FB Group. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

So, I tried several things when I put the engine back in on Sunday, but I quickly realized the transmission is as close to the underside of the trunk as possible already - that 3/4" bushing between the cradle and the transmission mount plates is needed. I did order some steel spacers to replace the urethane bushings that will allow me to use M12 bolts instead of the current M10s. Once those arrive I can work out removing the upper bushings above the mounts and figure out the correct length for the new M12 bolts.

My ride height is not set yet since I just have scrap roller tires on there, but the lowest point on the oil pan is 6" above the ground. The cradle is 7-1/4" above ground, and the trans mount bolts are around 8" above ground. All seem manageable...

[Chris914n6]

V8 swaps move the trans back 1.25" with spacer blocks. For my V6 I used the same block to move it forward 1.25". There is flexibility in mounting, measure the max angle in 3d, not just horizontal or vertical.

[mgarrison]

Here are the metal spacers I was able to find to replace the urethane bushings to create more of a "hard mount". Also went up from a M10 to M12 bolts for the mounts.


With those 3/4" spacers, here is the space I have left above the Subaru 5MT.


I did upgrade from my little HF flux-core welder to an entry level AC/DC TIG welder. Now all I have to do is learn to TIG weld - no pressure at all! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

[jd74914]

I did upgrade from my little HF flux-core welder to an entry level AC/DC TIG welder. Now all I have to do is learn to TIG weld - no pressure at all! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

Nice! Have to say, I thought that Prime Weld machine worked as well as the Dynasty at school or HTP in the race shop. Really great machine for the money, it certainly won't be your limiter! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)