Hello,

I new around here, but have been lurking for a bit trying to soak up all the 914 knowledge and information I could! I was looking into building a Factory Five 818 kit with the Subaru flat-4, but the cost of entry was a bit too high, and the time & space needed to build a car from scratch seemed overwhelming. But it got me thinking; that's basically a tube-framed 914 with an odd body. I wonder if anyone has put a Subaru flat-4 in a 914? A few Google searches later I learned that a lot of people had, and parts were out there to spend my money on!

Long story short, I found two rollers with no engines or transmissions in Tucson, AZ a couple of hours South of me. Soon I rented a car hauler for a couple of days and my "Craft Project" (my wife's label) was begun.

The rollers were a green 1971, and a red 1974. I wanted to restore the 71 because it just seemed to have more character. The 74 had been partially stripped for an electric conversion project, and seemed less "car like". Sadly, the 71 needed a bit more work than I was setup to handle. So, it had to be the 74 who I have simply labeled as "Red".

I will try to track my build process here as best I can. I tend to get working on things and forget to document things, but will try to keep track.

Here's Red when we got her home on the trailer and tucked away in the back yard for the moment.

Mike
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If anyone knows how to correctly rotate portrait images, please let me know - can't seem to figure that one out yet!

We got Red tucked away in the back yard so that we could run down to Tucson again the next day to get the green 71.

Once both cars were safely home, I started looking them over to see which one was going to work best, and what issues I might be facing.

Red seems very solid, with almost no rust, and just a bad AC trunk floor repair to contend with. I documented the VIN, and entered it into my profile.

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Here's the trunk floor "repair". They cut out the partially rusty front trunk floor from the green 71 and tacked it into Red!

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Here is her temporary home until I decided she was the best candidate for rebuild.

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Once I got Red squared away in my working area, I started pulling the rest of the parts and pieces off her so that I can deal with any rust issues, repairs, etc. She looks really solid, thankfully!

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Someone had repainted the inside of the front trunk lid white, and they got over spray all over the dash. A bit of extra work to correct it.

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I pulled the outer rockers off, and despite five pounds of silt coming out, they still look amazingly rust free!

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I managed to get the headlight assemblies all out, and focused on trying to clean up the tiny, hard to reach area under the headlight buckets. Not sure how you really get in there to clean, repair, etc. but it seems like even the Germans had a tough time getting paint back in there!

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The red car does look solid, I wish my car was a rust free as yours!

Welcome to the madness. There are quite a few suby conversion on here. Did you decide on a suby motor? I'd recommend doing the ez30 6 conversion. With a Subaru trans as well. Lot's of help here with it. There is even a nice finished one for sale in the classifieds for $14,500. Your 74 is definitely in good shape rust wise. I'll be following along to see how it goes.

Is it hard to get the headlight assembly out? I need to do that.

It was not horrible, but not too obvious on a couple of parts either. Hardest part was getting the pivot shaft for the popups out. Still not sure exactly what worked in the end. Its 2 bolts on the outside, and 3 bolts on the inside of the car towards the middle of the trunk - I missed the upper inside bolt on the first side and could not figure out why it was not loose for a minute. The plastic connector plugged into the headlight on the drivers side crumbled into my hand when I tried to unplug it.

I am thinking a WRX motor and trans, but not a STI. Want to stick with the 5 speed. I grew up on early Saab turbos in the late 70's and really like small displacement turbo motors.

Im hoping Ian will be back making cradles by the time I am ready. Not sure I want to tackle fab'ing a cradle up, but if push comes to shove...No way I will pay for the Renegade setup.

I, too, am currently in the process of doing a subi conversion. You've got a better starting car (a lot less rust).

If you're thinking a 2.0 or 2.5 WRX conversion, I have a Small Car Performance Subaru 4 Cyl-Vanagon 4WD Engine Mount cradle that I'm not going to use (for sale). Several others on this site have used these cradles with no problems. I'm going a different route.

If you're interested, PM me.

RobF

After some wasted time repairing a sprinkler valve this morning, I was able to spend a few hours working on the 914.

Yesterday just for the heck of it I decided to buff out one of the fenders to see what the paint looked like under all the years. Not too bad considering!

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Its too bad I dont like/cant really see red very well. It would be a lot less work to just clean up the Bahia red than it will be to change the color! Oh well, the joys of being color blind...

Since all my garage space is taken up already, I had to get creative and create my own temporary, outside garage. It seems to work, at least until I start doing some serious engine and trans work. I may have to kick my son's Miata out of its spot at some point.

Here's the overnight, storage setup.
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And the I'm working now, so leave me alone unless I am bleeding, screaming, or lodged under the car in a life threatening manner.
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The pollen coming of the tree is a bit much this time of year though.
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I did manage to get the pedal cluster out. Quite a bit of surface rust under there, but nothing seems to have gone very deep.
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A bit of cleaning and sealing is due back here...
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The wiring harness removal was way too much fun. Got 95% of it out intact in case its needed down the road, but it so old and crunchy I'm not sure it safe/worth using!
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Does anybody have any amazing, creative ideas on how to clean out the tunnel area if you are not replacing any of the floor? Bit of a mess in there, and impossible to get to. Some kind of chimney sweep brush hooked to a drill???
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I also pulled the read trunk lid off so I could remove the wiring harness from the rear of the car.
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I was checking out the battery tray, and it literally came off in my hand! Two very unsuccessful tack welds were not doing much to hold it in place. Looks like it may have been replaced around 2008 from the sticker still on the bottom.
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You are starting with a very solid car....congratulations!

Looks like you’re having fun! Keep posting so we can see this one come back to life.

I'd like to know the same. I did get mine pretty clean though by using a shop-vac with a small wand/nozzle (shift rod, etc. removed)... I'm thinking next I'll use a landscape leaf blower and blast it from the Shift rod hole (@ the engine compartment) forward, and from the rear access hole in the tunnel - blow towards the pedal cluster area. Then I was thinking I'd maybe attach a cloth/sponge (soaked in diluted phosphoric acid solution) to the end of a long flexible rod .. and work it up in there everywhere, to stop/kill surface rust. Let that dry then use 'internal frame rust paint' paint from Eastwoods to spray for future protection (it comes with a long flexible applicator hose/nozzle w/ a fan pattern). Heck I might even go with a spray-on wax product after that (I forget the name), which is made for such situations. That's my plan so far - anyone got a better solution, we're all ears !

Didn't seem like I got much done today, but I'll take what progress I can get!

The first order of business was to eliminate the branch that I walked into three times yesterday!
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Forehead was getting sore from that stupid, low hanging branch...

I managed to get the brake line and the fuel lines out of the tunnel with some help from above from my wife. That's not a 1 person job for sure! Once those were out, I thought I'd take a shot at the tar lining the floor. Need to say a big thanks to one of the posters here that showed using an oscillating tool on the tar - it jarred my addled brain enough to remember I had one of those from HF in my storage! It made fairly quick work of the tar, but does bog down a bit on the seam sealer. Floor looks like it is in pretty dang good shape except for a few dents from hitting things over the years - sure can't complain!

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I had to bundle the car back up for the evening. Supposed to rain tomorrow...not supposed to happen this often in central AZ!

I got distracted for about a week fab'ing up a body dolly. It took a lot longer than expected (of course), but seems to work well!

Here's what I came up with based on how high I could jack up the 914, and the local supply of steel tube...

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I dropped the front and rear suspension, as well as the steering rack of the body to lighten things up as much as possible.

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It took a team effort, but we finally got the dolly positioned where I wanted it. Will be nice to have my jack stands back, and not have to bend over much to work on the 914.

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I was even able to position the 914 a bit by myself in the gravel. That was a bonus as I expected it to take 2-3 people to move it in the gravel! Lot's of room to tuck things away under the body now.

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I just need to figure out how to tie it down to the dolly so it can't move/slip...

Nice job. Throw a couple of sheets of plywood over that gravel. Stay after it.

Finally got back to the '14 after being distracted by a leaking dishwasher, then a clogged bathroom drain, then a leaking pool filter! Some month's, I just LOVE owning a home!

Received my RD frunk replacement floor pan. Seems like mine was cut forward of where they were supposed to be cut. Will need to buy some extra steel to cover that gap.
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I also lost a weekend to my Son's Miata. Replaced the ball joints and corrected the Eibach coilovers - A previous owner installed the front coils on the rear, and the rear coils on the front! Not sure how they pulled that one off since the front coils were a good 1/4" longer than the rears.
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Got the tar off the floor pan fairly easy, but that seam sealer is some tenacious stuff! Floors look really solid.
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The worst rust spot and only penetration is behind the drivers seat, on the upper firewall. Seems like an odd spot for rust to collect/happen.
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I found a couple of odd holes with rather large bolts & washers in them. One in the front middle of where the drivers seat would be. And one behind the drivers seat in the middle as well. Nothing like these on the passenger side.
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I did find stress cracks on the driver's long at the indent for the hand brake. No rust, just the cracks. Kind of artistic looking in the closeup.
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I took the wire wheel to the rust hole on the firewall. It opened up quite a bit and I discovered someone had tried to Bondo over it from the engine side. Why, why, why...
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A bit of surface rust near the pedal box. Does not look too bad really. Feels pretty solid poking at it rather hard.
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Got all the nasty seam sealer out of the firewall seam. Comes out OK with a wire brush in the angle grinder, but man what a mess!
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It turns out there is more than one rust hole on the firewall. Go figure...
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Pedal area cleaned up a bit more. Still looks really solid.
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There was a section cut out of the passengers long - no idea why as I don't see anything that needs attention in there. (keeps rotating this one 180!)
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I want to run my radiator hoses through the longs like I have seen some others on the site do. I need to eliminate those elbows on the front end of the longs, but I am not replacing floors. Quite the puzzle of how to get those crazy things loose/out!
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My wife's idea of distraction/humor during the social distancing/isolation. I guess she sent one to her sister too. You gotta love Bob!
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Only way I could figure to get the elbows and tubes out of the longs. I did not want to open her(need to come up with a good/saucy name for her) up this much, but it will give me a chance to clean and coat the insides of the longs.
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Finally got one out - quite the battle! Even managed to set a towel on fire with the sparks from the cut off wheel. Kind of funny actually...
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And the driver's side. Was a challenge to get the cardboard tube out from the front end of the long, but finally got it all out.
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Not really sure what to say about some of these factory welds...
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Driver's long looks really good in there too.
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The back side of the stress cracks at the hand brake indent.
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One section mostly cleaned off. Definitely took more than a minute.
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I sometimes think that stress crack at the handbrake is factory installed. I think most 914's have had or need that repair.

The interior view of those longs looks cherry. Are you going to install the interior stiffer kit?

Yea, I think so. I was looking at what kits were still available. Planning a WRX motor & trans, so the kit seems like a wise idea.

It's been a long time since I updated this - been distracted like everyone else, and it was just too hot here during the summer to work on the 914 much at all. I also managed to bounce a running angle grinder off my face at the start of the pandemic lockdown! Safety glasses saved my right eye...My Sister-in-law's guidance was key to being able to treat it at home with very little scarring - saved my bacon!!

I ordered some Eastwood inside frame paint with the cool little spray tube. You can see it covered pretty well inside from the seeping out between the seams:
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I've patched up a few small holes in the tub working on my welding skills before I try to weld in the front trunk pan AC fix panel:
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We ended up donating the green '70 that was rusty to the automotive program at the local tech school where our Son attends. Getting "Greenie" out and on a trailer took some juggling...
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I joked the 914 was "out for a drive".
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It still seemed just too hot to weld, so I switched over to pulling the suspension apart, cleaning, and repainting the pieces.
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The shocks and inserts were budget KYB items. I think I will replace with the Koni adjustable units. Can anyone verify those are Boge strut housings?
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It's interesting, the brake pads, rotors, grease and bearings all seem almost brand new:
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Getting those ball joints loose was quite the challenge. Thanks to the various members here who have posted what worked for them - the pipe wrench method won in the end!
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While some components seemed almost new, others seemed totally shot:
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I'll try to update more regularly now that its cool enough to work outside again...

A couple more pics of suspension/brake stuff. I didn't want to spend the money to have them blasted and powder coated, so I just used a wire brush in a cordless drill, and my time. Looks ok for now. Not sure how well they will hold up, but not much moisture, rain, etc. in Phoenix, AZ area.
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I did purchase a new toy to make our lives a bit easier working on the cars. The Miata was a real challenge to get a jack under; you had to drive up onto 2x4s for the jack to fit. Now it takes a quarter the time it used to!
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It's rated for 7,000 pounds, so I can use it for the Wife's Jeep and my truck as well, but I did have to buy the SUV kit for it to lift the truck high enough to get the rear wheels off the ground! That 14" of travel makes some simple maintenance rather challenging...
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Finally getting around to posting another update!

I removed the battery tray support and discovered some minor Hell hole issues...
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Noticed some odd holes on the inner fender next to the openings for the AC tubing. Looks like they might have bolted something to the inner fender here...?
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I set about removing the engine tray. Since my roller did not have engine, trans, seats, etc., I will be doing a Subaru conversion and wont need the engine tray. Cutting spot welds is quite the long, tedious process!
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Finally...
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I drilled a 2" inspection hole to see how bad the damage was, and that I can cut out and weld a patch back in.
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Tried to take a pic to see what the inside looks like, but hard to really tell..
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I rolled the 914 around to the garage so I could use the high speed air saw, and cut out the rusted sections that need to be patched up.
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While I was waiting to give the compressor a break, I drilled the openings to run my coolant lines up to the front trunk.
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Getting the patches to fit just right is a crazy TEDIOUS process!
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In my spare time here & there, I have been working on removing seam sealer aka "Rust Hider" to get any rust addressed properly.
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Is there a consensus on replacing the seam sealer? Since I am doing a Subaru conversion, I'm not concerned with looking 100% original as my roller did not have historic value. Does the sealer REALLY keep rust out? With modern rust treatment and paint products, is it still necessary?

You're making good progress. I've got mixed feelings about seam sealer. One thing is for sure; it's just as good retaining moisture as it is preventing it. Ian just completed a run of cradles, too. This is a good place to document your build but you can't expect much support or conversion product updates here. There are a couple of forums on FB dedicated to Subaru conversions, conversion parts and services. Stay after it.

A painters '5 in 1' tool and the heat gun makes shorter work of the seam seal. You can 'lean' harder on the sealant with the 5 in 1. The point edge digs in to tight corners.

Agree!

Regarding "Ian just completed a run of cradles, too." - Which Ian are you referring to? If ColdWater914 is back online, I'm super interested!

Mike

A few more pics of yesterday's work.

Here's my small patch welded in on the firewall between the seats.
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I can't remember who, but someone on the forum posted about using a smashed copper pipe as a backing when welding sheet metal, to act as a heatsink. Works really well when you are struggling with burning through in spots. I had my welder down as low as it can go, but still had some challenges in some corners. I just used a smashed copper elbow. The welds don't stick to the copper at all.
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Here's the inner fender patch tacked in place.
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And mostly complete - I will have to see where I missed after grinding it out a bit.
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Three more "easy" patches, then I need to form up the patch for the inner long - I'm sure that's going to take some time and effort to get the correct shape! Still need to replace the frunk floor from the AC cutout, and then weld in the MadDog inner long stiffeners...So slow sometimes I feel like I'm sliding backwards! Ah, but it keeps me off the streets, right!

Yep, Coldwater. He made 20 sets. New and improved. will accept any series engine and will accept the 914 transmission as well as Subaru TY75. IMHO, the 914 transmission is a step back.

It’s true! I am back! While technically the cradles have been delayed by a week because of some issues with the laser cut parts I’ll be shipping them out in the next few weeks. Also have hardware and parts inbound for the cable shift setups and back plates. I am holding off on the axles and couplers for now as they are expensive to produce and there are great options like Dutchman axles and Subarugears for those parts. Shoot me a line at ian@coldwater914.com if you are interested!

Good luck with the build looks like a great base to start with!

-Ian

Finished another patch section. Right side was difficult for some reason, but got it filled in finally...
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I cut out the back of the center tunnel so I could remove the stock tubing that I will not need with the Subaru engine and trans. Also gives me a decent opportunity to clean it out as best I can, and paint with the Easton inside frame rail paint to prevent any future rust.
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Completed one more small patch. Was a total PITA to weld! Starting to feel like a bad trend...aren't you supposed to improve with practice???
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Received my replacement handbrake parts from AA. Trying to locate them based off the spot welds I drilled out as I did not find any reference as to how to exactly locate them. Need to drill the holes for the rosette welds...
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I hear ya on the supposed to get better with practice idea. I discovered one time my little welder needed maintenance and another time the metal was not as clean which caused headaches. Keep on trucking.
I like the clean look removing the engine shelf. I may have to borrow that idea...

Another small update. Progress seems SO SLOW, but I keep trying to plod along!

Once I opened things up with the air saw, I tried to get a better look inside the inner long/suspension console area/frame rail/WTH do they call this area! looks better than I thought it might in there - I know many of you would love to have a 914 with this little rust, so I am grateful. I wire brushed inside as best I could, then vacuumed it out with the shop vac, then sprayed the Eastwood inside frame rail paint in there everywhere I could reach with the little nozzle:

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Some of what I have repaired/resurrected on 914World is simply incredible - some real talent out there! I treated all the rust I could get to with rust inhibiter, and then shot it with weld through primer.

It took me quite a while to get my patch shaped, and then fit just right so that I had some chance of being able to weld it in without total disaster occurring (due to my cheap welder, and very limited skills):

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My initial welds to tack in place were rather embarrassing! I could not get my welding helmet back into the corner by the firewall far enough to really see exactly what I was doing, and the patch was sloping away from me too. A bit of blind welding ensued!

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But after grinding a bit, and filling a bit, and grinding some more, and filling. You get the idea...It will have to do:

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My patch on the inner fender came out ok, but sure not great - not sure how you hold/clamp a piece like this in place so that it stays really flat. I think I should have used my butt weld clamps to keep it flatter, oh well...

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The patch on the upper portion between the seats came out much better, but still needs a little grinding to make it blend in better.

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I drilled the holes in my parking brake pieces, and did my first Rosette welds. I believe they came out ok, and they seem solid. Rosette welds seem much easier than the butt welds on thin metal!

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Next up is the frunk floor panel, and then the Mad Dog Inner Long kit...Inch by bloody inch!

I've been taking pictures as I work, but getting them from my phone, to Google drive, then to the laptop, then resized to post...You get the idea!

Finally have the "frunk" mostly finished. I feel like I'm sooooo sloooooow. But progress is progress!

I had to piece in the gap at the front of the frunk floor where too much was cut out. I got some new snips that work much better, so getting the patches cut was much quicker. Half the gap tacked:

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And the other half:
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I kept hearing the Taylor Swift song "Death by a thousand cuts" in my head, but it transformed to "Death (of my back) by a thousand tacks" in my addled brain!
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As I was making progress tacking things in, I ran out of welding wire. I had more in the drawer, but it was the good Lincoln stuff. Oddly enough the Lincoln wire gave me more trouble than the cheap HF stuff I was using! Does anyone with more welding experience know why this started happening when I switched to the Lincoln wire?
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Both are .030 wire. I did not change my settings, etc. Just started getting these crazy craters in some of the tacks! I fiddled with the amps and wire speed and finally got things working better. Almost like the Lincoln wire burned hotter and I could not get my welder set low enough for the thin sheet metal...
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I sprayed a small section of my test color. Then covered it with clear. Then sanded a bit with 800 grit to removed orange peel. Then finally buffed it out with a random buffer. It looked pretty good, at first. Over time this happened!
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For those with more experience; have you seen this happen before? What would cause it to occur? It looked fine at first, but after a couple of weeks its like the paint shrank, cracked, and exposed the primer underneath!

Back to the frunk floor. I started grinding down some of my welds to see how it was going to turn out. I needed a little break from welding, and to catch my breath before I dealt with a few problem spots:
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My first problem area was near the drivers side front A-arm mount. They cut out the frunk floor right up against the edge of the mount, which made me nervous welding. Some of the metal just did not seem to want to be welded, or I was not good enough to get it welded, so I ended up using a hole saw to remove the problem section. I then patched it in which was a challenge as it was rather curved.
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Another difficult spot was near the hole they cut for the AC lines on the passenger side near the rear of the frunk floor. Metal just did not want to weld together, despite the lack of rust, etc.
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Whoever did the AC installation on this car was rather rough to put it mildly! Not sure what in the world they did with these two mounting holes (assuming they were for the strap/bracket holding the condenser down to the frunk floor), but they tore up the steel so bad I just ended up cutting them both out with the hole saw and patching them up!
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Getting better at cutting out these little patches!
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I read on 914World where someone smashed a copper pipe, and used it as backing while welding thin sheet metal. It seems to work rather well to absorb the heat, and is an easy way to back up these little patches - thanks to whoever it was for that tip! Here's my setup for patching the nasty AC mounting holes. You can just see the flat copper pipe on top of the 4x4, pressed up against the bottom of the frunk floor:
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From the top side, it looks like this, and helps keep the patch in place and flush:
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Starting to tack the patch in, and had the dang crater issues again! Arrrgggg.
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Settled down and it came out ok in the end. Just had to fill those craters with a really quick tack since they went clear through!
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Got my welds ground down good enough, I guess - I'm going to use rubberized undercoating on the trunk floors to seal, protect, and give it a bit of texture to hide my less than idea repair work. I made sure to get the paintable kind of undercoating so I can spray it body color if I decide I dont like the black. Gave it a quick coat of primer top & bottom to keep it protected.
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Then spent an hour or so starting to remove some of the seam sealer to ensure nothing was hiding under it anywhere. Found an odd spot that I first thought was rust under there, but turned out to be a missed spot weld or some other oddity - you can just see it on the right edge of the seam, about 2" inches below the hole for the AC line.
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You need a sealer step for the paint and even then bad things can happen and these cracks will reappear.

@MB911 - look above at the welding question about the weld wire difference. To me it looks like you drawing up contaminates from the back side of the weld. But Ben is the expert.

but why did it change when he changed spools? Is it possible that a spool is contaminated? Maybe not enough shielding gas? Watching for Ben's reply. I do see lots os splatter around those suspect areas!

What number designation wire are you using? Just because it's. 030 doesn't mean its the same wire.

It also does look like your drawing in contaminates.

Thanks guys. Its an inexpensive, gasless, DC inverter welder. I got the HF version since its was $75 less than the same thing at HD/Lowes. Don't want to mess with tanks, and I'm working outside. The label is gone from the Lincoln wire, so not sure on the exact details...

Thanks!

Mike

There a really over 25 different kinds of Lincoln innershield wire, you may have gotten something that is metal core, composite, or even solid wire. My guess is you got the wrong wire.