Removing Rear Drive Axle, What needs to be out of the way? |
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Removing Rear Drive Axle, What needs to be out of the way? |
Highland |
Apr 14 2020, 05:18 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 513 Joined: 8-August 11 From: San Diego, CA Member No.: 13,418 Region Association: Southern California |
Asking before I get too frustrated.
I need to remove my entire left rear drive axle. CV's are leaking. Do I need to remove the starter or exhaust? Is it best just to remove the trailing arm? I have the transmission side disconnected and there doesn't seem to be enough room to drive the stub axles out without dropping the engine/transmission (which I don't want to do) or removing the trailing arm. |
mepstein |
Apr 14 2020, 05:23 PM
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#2
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914-6 GT in waiting Group: Members Posts: 19,271 Joined: 19-September 09 From: Landenberg, PA/Wilmington, DE Member No.: 10,825 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
You can usually unbolt one end of the shock, allowing the trailing arm to drop down further and make more room to remove the axle.
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infraredcalvin |
Apr 14 2020, 08:58 PM
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#3
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Distracted Member Group: Members Posts: 1,515 Joined: 25-August 08 From: Ladera Ranch, CA Member No.: 9,463 Region Association: Southern California |
i seem to recall replacing CVs just by unbolting the CVs and leaving stub axles in place...
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framos914 |
Apr 14 2020, 11:28 PM
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#4
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Member Group: Members Posts: 125 Joined: 15-May 14 From: Corona California Member No.: 17,353 Region Association: Southern California |
I also replaced my axles without removing the stub axles. A little hard to get the bolts on the wheel side started when reinstalling but had enough room to get it done.
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Highland |
Apr 15 2020, 07:51 AM
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#5
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 513 Joined: 8-August 11 From: San Diego, CA Member No.: 13,418 Region Association: Southern California |
How do you guys split the CV on the trailing arm side without full cv access?
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porschetub |
Apr 15 2020, 02:16 PM
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#6
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,698 Joined: 25-July 15 From: New Zealand Member No.: 18,995 Region Association: None |
With bolts out work a large screwdriver or small bar round the edge of the CV to free it off the dowels as you rotate the shaft.
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Highland |
Apr 15 2020, 02:25 PM
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#7
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 513 Joined: 8-August 11 From: San Diego, CA Member No.: 13,418 Region Association: Southern California |
I guess i was asking how to do the described procedure with the CV still in the trailing arm. Guys are saying they can change the CV without removing the stub axle.
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porschetub |
Apr 15 2020, 03:03 PM
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#8
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,698 Joined: 25-July 15 From: New Zealand Member No.: 18,995 Region Association: None |
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Highland |
Apr 15 2020, 03:17 PM
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#9
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 513 Joined: 8-August 11 From: San Diego, CA Member No.: 13,418 Region Association: Southern California |
I guess I'm missing something very obvious here. I can't see how to get a screw driver in between the CV and stub axle (to split it) while the stub axle is still in the hub and trailing arm.
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infraredcalvin |
Apr 15 2020, 04:39 PM
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#10
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Distracted Member Group: Members Posts: 1,515 Joined: 25-August 08 From: Ladera Ranch, CA Member No.: 9,463 Region Association: Southern California |
I just don’t remember it being that hard... as poeschetub mentions, you just have to work the cv off the dowels. I guess I’ve been lucky and one has never been stuck enough where I couldn’t pop it out with a gentle tug or pry from a screwdriver (as awkward as it is to get something in there).
Maybe some pics to see your issue? |
Highland |
Apr 15 2020, 05:05 PM
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#11
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 513 Joined: 8-August 11 From: San Diego, CA Member No.: 13,418 Region Association: Southern California |
I can see how one can change the CV on the transmission end without removing the axle.
I don’t see how it’s possible on the wheel end where the CV is inside the trailing arm. |
mepstein |
Apr 15 2020, 05:30 PM
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#12
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914-6 GT in waiting Group: Members Posts: 19,271 Joined: 19-September 09 From: Landenberg, PA/Wilmington, DE Member No.: 10,825 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
I just think it’s way easier to pull the whole assembly out including the stub axle. Then you can r & r the assembly on the bench.
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914Toy |
Apr 15 2020, 07:40 PM
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#13
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 718 Joined: 12-November 17 From: Laguna beach Member No.: 21,596 Region Association: Southern California |
I can see how one can change the CV on the transmission end without removing the axle. I don’t see how it’s possible on the wheel end where the CV is inside the trailing arm. This maybe a matter of communication. You have to disconnect/remove both CV’s with the shaft to get to the wheel end CV. |
rgalla9146 |
Apr 15 2020, 08:46 PM
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#14
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,552 Joined: 23-November 05 From: Paramus NJ Member No.: 5,176 Region Association: None |
If you can remove the wheel side CV from the stub axle in place by levering it sideways with a screwdriver
you have other problems....... such as worn dowels or dowel holes. They are stuborn even on a work bench....... when driven apart with a chisel. |
infraredcalvin |
Apr 15 2020, 09:12 PM
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#15
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Distracted Member Group: Members Posts: 1,515 Joined: 25-August 08 From: Ladera Ranch, CA Member No.: 9,463 Region Association: Southern California |
Ok I think I see the issue, it would be really hard to change or remove only the wheel side cv, that I’ve never tried before, you’re probably correct that there is not enough room to get the assembly out.
I assumed you had already removed the trans side CV first, then the wheel side CV and you should be able to remove.the axle and CV assembly. Sometimes they can be stubborn, in my experience, usually the CV seal ends up bonding to both sides (age, crud, DAPOs using adhesive) and causing the worst of the hangup. I remember some of the old seals I had were adhesive on one side so they’d stay put. |
bigkensteele |
Apr 15 2020, 09:29 PM
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#16
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Major Member Group: Members Posts: 2,197 Joined: 30-August 04 From: Cincinnati, OH Member No.: 2,660 Region Association: South East States |
I just disassembled my whole rear suspension this week. I was able to remove the passenger side axle without too much problem, but I don't know how you might manage the drivers side without removing the starter or the heat exchanger. I'm doing the whole thing, so I just went ahead and pulled the trailing arm. I'm doing new bushings and all, so that was fine.
If you don't want to do an alignment, I think you will need to either remove the starter or the HE on the driver's side. |
pneuhyde |
Apr 15 2020, 11:13 PM
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#17
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Member Group: Members Posts: 94 Joined: 24-February 05 From: San Leandro, Ca. Member No.: 3,654 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
I just disassembled my whole rear suspension this week. I was able to remove the passenger side axle without too much problem, but I don't know how you might manage the drivers side without removing the starter or the heat exchanger. I'm doing the whole thing, so I just went ahead and pulled the trailing arm. I'm doing new bushings and all, so that was fine. If you don't want to do an alignment, I think you will need to either remove the starter or the HE on the driver's side. Thanks for clearing that up. I had pulled mine when the engine was out, but after rebuilding them the engine was back in so when I went to put them back in I ran into the same fitment problem. The passenger side would fit but not the driver side and I surmised tat I would have to pull the starter, but that was where the project stopped - for other reasons. now I have been pondering getting back to it and the looming question was how to proceed. Steve |
falcor75 |
Apr 15 2020, 11:29 PM
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#18
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,579 Joined: 22-November 12 From: Sweden Member No.: 15,176 Region Association: Scandinavia |
The HE can stay on. I remove the trans side bolts and pull the cv from the transmission. Then I remove the top nut on the shock and let the swingarm extend fully down. Remove the big 30 mm hub nut and then pull the entire shaft out and do whats needed. Getting the HE's to seal well is much more of a PITA.
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930cabman |
May 21 2021, 05:00 PM
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#19
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,062 Joined: 12-November 20 From: Buffalo Member No.: 24,877 Region Association: North East States |
I just think it’s way easier to pull the whole assembly out including the stub axle. Then you can r & r the assembly on the bench. I agree, then the whole works is on the bench. I was able to remove the passenger side easily with a few taps on the stub axle. The drivers side is another issue. How much slugging should this take? Thanks |
PlaysWithCars |
May 21 2021, 10:27 PM
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#20
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 524 Joined: 9-November 03 From: Southeast of Seattle Member No.: 1,323 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
I've always removed the drive axle w/o taking out the stub axle. Access is a little tough inside the swing arm, but the outer CV bolts to the stub axle the same way the inner one bolts to the transmission flange.
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