Asking before I get too frustrated.

I need to remove my entire left rear drive axle. CV's are leaking.

Do I need to remove the starter or exhaust? Is it best just to remove the trailing arm?

I have the transmission side disconnected and there doesn't seem to be enough room to drive the stub axles out without dropping the engine/transmission (which I don't want to do) or removing the trailing arm.

You can usually unbolt one end of the shock, allowing the trailing arm to drop down further and make more room to remove the axle.

i seem to recall replacing CVs just by unbolting the CVs and leaving stub axles in place...

I also replaced my axles without removing the stub axles. A little hard to get the bolts on the wheel side started when reinstalling but had enough room to get it done.

How do you guys split the CV on the trailing arm side without full cv access?

With bolts out work a large screwdriver or small bar round the edge of the CV to free it off the dowels as you rotate the shaft.

I guess i was asking how to do the described procedure with the CV still in the trailing arm. Guys are saying they can change the CV without removing the stub axle.

Yes you can.

I guess I'm missing something very obvious here. I can't see how to get a screw driver in between the CV and stub axle (to split it) while the stub axle is still in the hub and trailing arm.

I just don’t remember it being that hard... as poeschetub mentions, you just have to work the cv off the dowels. I guess I’ve been lucky and one has never been stuck enough where I couldn’t pop it out with a gentle tug or pry from a screwdriver (as awkward as it is to get something in there).

Maybe some pics to see your issue?

I can see how one can change the CV on the transmission end without removing the axle.

I don’t see how it’s possible on the wheel end where the CV is inside the trailing arm.

I just think it’s way easier to pull the whole assembly out including the stub axle. Then you can r & r the assembly on the bench.

This maybe a matter of communication. You have to disconnect/remove both CV’s with the shaft to get to the wheel end CV.

If you can remove the wheel side CV from the stub axle in place by levering it sideways with a screwdriver
you have other problems....... such as worn dowels or dowel holes.
They are stuborn even on a work bench....... when driven apart with a chisel.

Ok I think I see the issue, it would be really hard to change or remove only the wheel side cv, that I’ve never tried before, you’re probably correct that there is not enough room to get the assembly out.

I assumed you had already removed the trans side CV first, then the wheel side CV and you should be able to remove.the axle and CV assembly.

Sometimes they can be stubborn, in my experience, usually the CV seal ends up bonding to both sides (age, crud, DAPOs using adhesive) and causing the worst of the hangup. I remember some of the old seals I had were adhesive on one side so they’d stay put.

I just disassembled my whole rear suspension this week. I was able to remove the passenger side axle without too much problem, but I don't know how you might manage the drivers side without removing the starter or the heat exchanger. I'm doing the whole thing, so I just went ahead and pulled the trailing arm. I'm doing new bushings and all, so that was fine.

If you don't want to do an alignment, I think you will need to either remove the starter or the HE on the driver's side.

Thanks for clearing that up. I had pulled mine when the engine was out, but after rebuilding them the engine was back in so when I went to put them back in I ran into the same fitment problem. The passenger side would fit but not the driver side and I surmised tat I would have to pull the starter, but that was where the project stopped - for other reasons. now I have been pondering getting back to it and the looming question was how to proceed.

Steve

The HE can stay on. I remove the trans side bolts and pull the cv from the transmission. Then I remove the top nut on the shock and let the swingarm extend fully down. Remove the big 30 mm hub nut and then pull the entire shaft out and do whats needed. Getting the HE's to seal well is much more of a PITA.

I agree, then the whole works is on the bench. I was able to remove the passenger side easily with a few taps on the stub axle. The drivers side is another issue. How much slugging should this take?
Thanks

I've always removed the drive axle w/o taking out the stub axle. Access is a little tough inside the swing arm, but the outer CV bolts to the stub axle the same way the inner one bolts to the transmission flange.

I un bolt the cv from the trans and loosen. then unbolt from stub axle. Wheel off the ground I pull on the axle and rotate the axle and tap with rubber mallet on the top of axle, near the swing arm. As it rotates the gap grows until it falls off. Works for me.

(although when I did mine I didn't have to touch the shock).

Just needed a bit more juice, I kept wailing at her today and she finally gave it up. From what I could tell there was '0" lube on the splines and had probably never been apart. I plan on coating the splines with never seize for the next guys benefit.

Now I have the entire assembly on the bench and will probably follow Ian's youtube video.