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> WOT: Need woodworking advice, building a guitar
TimT
post Jul 22 2005, 10:16 AM
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sure you can spray poly. If you dont have spray equipment, Im sure you could get a suitable finish out of a aerosol can.
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carr914
post Jul 22 2005, 10:45 AM
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Don't spray the poly. I sell polys and you will get a better final product with a brush on product. My product ZAR is self leveling and can be applied with a foam brush or a very good quality china bristle brush. Do Not use a roller with a poly as it introduces bubbles into the poly. If you a brush or wipe-on product, DO NOT SHAKE the can. This introduces bubbles. Stir the product thoughly before and during your application. Steel wool between coats with oil based finish.Spray polys will be diluted versions of the original formula in order to get them to spray and will not have the Solids content that you need for durability. Also the tips on most sprays will be condusive to spitting droplets and there is more potential for the poly to sag and to have bubbles. We just upgraded to a better tip but I have not used it yet.Or you can use ZAR Wipe-On Finish with Tung Oil. The wipe-on Tung Oil will be far and away the easiest. It also has a richer look. I also want to comment on the distressing that you are doing and how that relates to your finish. Any distressing will show up more as gloss level goes up. Go to www.ugl.com for more info and a dealer locator.

T.C.
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ninefourteener
post Jul 22 2005, 12:09 PM
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Thanks for all the help folks... I'm going to stick with the canned poly... although the spray sounds easy... I think the cammed will appear to be "thicker"

As for the wipe-on poly/tung mix....... does it come out glass-like.... or just "shiny"??

I'm really looking for a coat that "looks" like it's 3 inches thick... thats what I want.

Pics as requested.... Please keep in mind, this is the first time I've EVER done any woodworking at all.... ever. Fiirst time I've ever touched a router, or stain, or even sanded anything wood..... So go easy, please.. I'm pretty proud of it. If you notice, I torched the headstock, and stained it to match the body to the best of my ability.... I'm actually pretty happy with it

(I just left myself open for a world of bashing huh?--LOL)

This is what I started with (front)


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ninefourteener
post Jul 22 2005, 12:09 PM
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this is the back before I started:


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ninefourteener
post Jul 22 2005, 12:10 PM
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now:


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ninefourteener
post Jul 22 2005, 12:10 PM
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ninefourteener
post Jul 22 2005, 12:11 PM
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redshift
post Jul 22 2005, 12:22 PM
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I use 4 finishes.

Vintage thin; Lacquer over sanding sealer.. the sealer depth is measured in microns, 4 coats of lacquer, when cured, and leveled, measures around 10 mic. Polishes to a very high gloss.

French polish; methylated spirit varnish, lac flakes, disolved in denatured alcohol. Ancient finish technique... look it up. Worthwhile. Sore arms.

Oil varnish; I have a mix that I do by eye. It's base is spar varnish.

Gunstock finish; oh man... would look GREAT on your instrument... adds to what you already have.. and is so east to apply, and repair.

Poly? NOT ON MY GUITARS BUDDY!


M
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tat2dphreak
post Jul 22 2005, 12:36 PM
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just send it to Mile... he'll make sure it's right... he don't have a damn thing else to do anyway...

just don't let the goat chew it man!

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beer.gif)
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goose2
post Jul 22 2005, 12:57 PM
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I used to use poly to build up very thick glossy finishes on Jaguar dashboards. Two problems I encountered: it's not perfectly transparent when thick (hazy) and yellows a bit (new products may be better), and it tends to develop crazing or cracks over time with variations in temp and humidity. I'd think hard about using poly if you want a thick glossy coating. My choice would be a "long oil" spar varnish....brush, sand, brush, sand, brush, sand......etc. Thin and spray last coat. There's probably a half-dozen ways to get the look you want and everyone has their favorite. A two part conversion varnish would be nice, and very durable, but needs good spray equipment and is very toxic. You might want to pose your question on a guitar builder's message board.
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ninefourteener
post Jul 22 2005, 01:30 PM
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QUOTE (redshift @ Jul 22 2005, 10:22 AM)

Gunstock finish; oh man... would look GREAT on your instrument... adds to what you already have.. and is so east to apply, and repair.


What is that?? What does it consist of doing? Where do I buy it??
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redshift
post Jul 22 2005, 01:34 PM
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Tru-Oil

Look at this: http://www.gunshop.com/phiatt3.htm

Here is an example of the package, you can get it at most gun shops, around here:

http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product_info....roducts_id=3918

Whatever you decide on, I can give you some pointers for an easy job.



M
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ninefourteener
post Jul 22 2005, 01:50 PM
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That sounds pretty interesting, I'mworried about the fact that I've already stained it though. It says not to do that.

I'm intersted though... sounds to me like you just apply, steel wool, apply, steel wool, etc.

It also says that the finish can be satin or matte..... I want a gloss finish though.

Input??
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redshift
post Jul 22 2005, 02:01 PM
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It isn't a high-gloss finish, that is for sure.

I usually wipe on 3-4 thick coats, then steel wool, and polish. It has a... God forbid... luxurious 'touch'.


STORM! GOTTA GO!



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TimT
post Jul 22 2005, 06:33 PM
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QUOTE
I have a stratocaster with a whammy bar


-Frank Zappa- RIP


Looks nice!!
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jasons
post Jul 23 2005, 09:41 AM
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QUOTE (TimT @ Jul 22 2005, 04:33 PM)
QUOTE
I have a stratocaster with a whammy bar


-Frank Zappa- RIP


Looks nice!!

"And an amp in the back that said Fender Champ"

Man I love Zappa quotes, I could wing em around all day long!

BTW this is a good site for guitar re-finishing info and supplies....

Guitar Re-Ranch
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ninefourteener
post Aug 2 2005, 09:13 PM
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Just thought I'd post an update:

I decided to go with a provencial stain...... used 0000 steel wool to smooth.

I found a "wipe-on" polyeurothane.... its applied by hand,now with a brush. It came out pretty good I think..... especially for a beginner.

I steel wooled after each of the NINE coats.

Then.... I used an automotive polish to clean it up.

BTW.. those marks are fingerprints on the body.... not flaws in the finish.

Whattaya think so far?? ALMOST DONE!!!! Just need pickups!!


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ninefourteener
post Aug 2 2005, 09:13 PM
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ninefourteener
post Aug 2 2005, 09:14 PM
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last one


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ben1440
post Aug 2 2005, 10:10 PM
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Sorry if this is an addition to what someone has already said, but you can use something called MEK for stripping nitro finishes without damaging the wood(i dont know what it stands for off the top of my head). I work in custom archtop shop where we have had to use the stuff on nitro based finishes. be very very careful with that stuff and your skin. USE OUTSIDE! Anyways....good luck.

--Ben
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