914-6 Conversion Shift Linkage Question, (Firewall Back) |
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914-6 Conversion Shift Linkage Question, (Firewall Back) |
RichPugh |
May 10 2020, 04:29 PM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 124 Joined: 28-October 14 From: Baltimore, MD Member No.: 18,068 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
So... the engine is in (I’m using the NaroEscape -6 front mount) and, seeming because of the mount, it sits lower than stock. The Patrick Motorsport -6 shift linkage rod I intended on using, wont work. It interferes with the engine case and doesn’t seem to have a workaround. If the engine were 1/4” - 1/2” higher at the firewall, it looks like it would slip in, but alas, the engine is not going anywhere, lol.
I’m tempted to just bend the PMS bar end upward (maybe a couple inches from where it goes from the narrow shank to the bar rod) to give it the clearance but that would change the angle it goes into the rear bushing and connects to the shift lever... so I figured I’d ask if anyone else had an issue with the bar hitting the engine case and any options I might have. I’m OK with modding the old -4 rod too. Might be worth a shot but figured I’d ask here first. The other threads I found look like the stock rod modded is the move. Thanks Rich |
Mark Henry |
Sep 25 2020, 10:09 AM
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#2
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that's what I do! Group: Members Posts: 20,065 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Port Hope, Ontario Member No.: 26 Region Association: Canada |
I made my own RJ copy mount*, I mounted the bulkhead mount to the motor, then I raised the engine and trans into position and bolted up the rear trans mounts. I got the engine raised up to where I wanted it to sit and I tack welded the mount in place. I put in enough tack welds to hold the weight of the engine, took out the jack and confirmed that it was sitting correct with full weight.
In lining up my home made bulkhead mount I found several areas I had to mod and/or clearance before I tacked it in. I got it right first time but I could have easily cut out the tack welds and reposition it if needed. Only when I was totally happy and tacked in did I remove the engine/trans and fully weld in the mount. * Special thanks to @peteyd at RD for laser cutting the parts for the mount. |
Mark Henry |
Sep 30 2020, 10:55 AM
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#3
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that's what I do! Group: Members Posts: 20,065 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Port Hope, Ontario Member No.: 26 Region Association: Canada |
I mounted the bulkhead mount to the motor, then I raised the engine and trans into position and bolted up the rear trans mounts. I got the engine raised up to where I wanted it to sit and I tack welded the mount in place. I put in enough tack welds to hold the weight of the engine, took out the jack and confirmed that it was sitting correct with full weight. In lining up my home made bulkhead mount I found several areas I had to mod and/or clearance before I tacked it in. I got it right first time but I could have easily cut out the tack welds and reposition it if needed. Only when I was totally happy and tacked in did I remove the engine/trans and fully weld in the mount. -Bolt the mount and the transmission to the engine. -Put it in the car and bolt up the rear transmission (to body) mount bolts. -Use your jack to get the correct height of the front. -install the seal, hook it on under the engine tin edge, get it perfect before you weld. -Weld the tacks in an easy to grind out area in case you make a mistake. -Tack it well enough to hold the weight and check. -Check your seal, not too tight... not too loose, it should hook on the engine tin perfectly. -Remove engine/transmission and finish welding. Doing it this way my seal hooks perfectly onto the tin. Except for finding center I used no measuring tools for the job, I let the trans mounts do that job. I'd say my engine placement is as perfect as you can get. My shift rod is straight but it only clears by 1/4" and I have a Tangirine shifter console mod. |
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