914-6 Conversion Shift Linkage Question, (Firewall Back) Options

[RichPugh]

So... the engine is in (I’m using the NaroEscape -6 front mount) and, seeming because of the mount, it sits lower than stock. The Patrick Motorsport -6 shift linkage rod I intended on using, wont work. It interferes with the engine case and doesn’t seem to have a workaround. If the engine were 1/4” - 1/2” higher at the firewall, it looks like it would slip in, but alas, the engine is not going anywhere, lol.

I’m tempted to just bend the PMS bar end upward (maybe a couple inches from where it goes from the narrow shank to the bar rod) to give it the clearance but that would change the angle it goes into the rear bushing and connects to the shift lever... so I figured I’d ask if anyone else had an issue with the bar hitting the engine case and any options I might have. I’m OK with modding the old -4 rod too. Might be worth a shot but figured I’d ask here first.

The other threads I found look like the stock rod modded is the move.

Thanks

Rich

[Mark Henry]

I made my own RJ copy mount*, I mounted the bulkhead mount to the motor, then I raised the engine and trans into position and bolted up the rear trans mounts. I got the engine raised up to where I wanted it to sit and I tack welded the mount in place. I put in enough tack welds to hold the weight of the engine, took out the jack and confirmed that it was sitting correct with full weight.

In lining up my home made bulkhead mount I found several areas I had to mod and/or clearance before I tacked it in. I got it right first time but I could have easily cut out the tack welds and reposition it if needed.

Only when I was totally happy and tacked in did I remove the engine/trans and fully weld in the mount.

* Special thanks to @peteyd at RD for laser cutting the parts for the mount.

[Mark Henry]

I mounted the bulkhead mount to the motor, then I raised the engine and trans into position and bolted up the rear trans mounts. I got the engine raised up to where I wanted it to sit and I tack welded the mount in place. I put in enough tack welds to hold the weight of the engine, took out the jack and confirmed that it was sitting correct with full weight.

In lining up my home made bulkhead mount I found several areas I had to mod and/or clearance before I tacked it in. I got it right first time but I could have easily cut out the tack welds and reposition it if needed.

Only when I was totally happy and tacked in did I remove the engine/trans and fully weld in the mount.

-Bolt the mount and the transmission to the engine.
-Put it in the car and bolt up the rear transmission (to body) mount bolts.
-Use your jack to get the correct height of the front.
-install the seal, hook it on under the engine tin edge, get it perfect before you weld.
-Weld the tacks in an easy to grind out area in case you make a mistake.
-Tack it well enough to hold the weight and check.
-Check your seal, not too tight... not too loose, it should hook on the engine tin perfectly.
-Remove engine/transmission and finish welding.

Doing it this way my seal hooks perfectly onto the tin. Except for finding center I used no measuring tools for the job, I let the trans mounts do that job. I'd say my engine placement is as perfect as you can get.
My shift rod is straight but it only clears by 1/4" and I have a Tangirine shifter console mod.

[RichPugh]

Bolt the mount and the transmission to the engine.
-Put it in the car and bolt up the rear transmission (to body) mount bolts.
-Use your jack to get the correct height of the front.
-install the seal, hook it on under the engine tin edge, get it perfect before you weld.
-Weld the tacks in an easy to grind out area in case you make a mistake.
-Tack it well enough to hold the weight and check.
-Check your seal, not too tight... not too loose, it should hook on the engine tin perfectly.
-Remove engine/transmission and finish welding.

Doing it this way my seal hooks perfectly onto the tin. Except for finding center I used no measuring tools for the job, I let the trans mounts do that job. I'd say my engine placement is as perfect as you can get.
My shift rod is straight but it only clears by 1/4" and I have a Tangirine shifter console mod.

Did you have to relocate the rear brake bias unit? How high off the firewall bottom ledge is the centerline of the bolt holes in your ears? How long ago did you do this? This was my initial thought process too but like a good boy, I followed the instructions (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Lesson learned... but my ears are already welded. I know for a fact I could not have had them welded any higher without removing and relocating the rear brake bias unit.

[Mark Henry]

Bolt the mount and the transmission to the engine.
-Put it in the car and bolt up the rear transmission (to body) mount bolts.
-Use your jack to get the correct height of the front.
-install the seal, hook it on under the engine tin edge, get it perfect before you weld.
-Weld the tacks in an easy to grind out area in case you make a mistake.
-Tack it well enough to hold the weight and check.
-Check your seal, not too tight... not too loose, it should hook on the engine tin perfectly.
-Remove engine/transmission and finish welding.

Doing it this way my seal hooks perfectly onto the tin. Except for finding center I used no measuring tools for the job, I let the trans mounts do that job. I'd say my engine placement is as perfect as you can get.
My shift rod is straight but it only clears by 1/4" and I have a Tangirine shifter console mod.

Did you have to relocate the rear brake bias unit? How high off the firewall bottom ledge is the centerline of the bolt holes in your ears? How long ago did you do this? This was my initial thought process too but like a good boy, I followed the instructions (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Lesson learned... but my ears are already welded. I know for a fact I could not have had them welded any higher without removing and relocating the rear brake bias unit.

I actually cut out, modified and welded in a couple of gussets in the brake bias area. I had to clearance a few out other areas, one to clear the shiftrod boot.
But note mine was an RJ mount copy that was copied by someone unknown to me, I scavanged in parts from a 911 mount and the plans had a few mistakes as well.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

[Steve]

Bolt the mount and the transmission to the engine.
-Put it in the car and bolt up the rear transmission (to body) mount bolts.
-Use your jack to get the correct height of the front.
-install the seal, hook it on under the engine tin edge, get it perfect before you weld.
-Weld the tacks in an easy to grind out area in case you make a mistake.
-Tack it well enough to hold the weight and check.
-Check your seal, not too tight... not too loose, it should hook on the engine tin perfectly.
-Remove engine/transmission and finish welding.

Doing it this way my seal hooks perfectly onto the tin. Except for finding center I used no measuring tools for the job, I let the trans mounts do that job. I'd say my engine placement is as perfect as you can get.
My shift rod is straight but it only clears by 1/4" and I have a Tangirine shifter console mod.

Did you have to relocate the rear brake bias unit? How high off the firewall bottom ledge is the centerline of the bolt holes in your ears? How long ago did you do this? This was my initial thought process too but like a good boy, I followed the instructions (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Lesson learned... but my ears are already welded. I know for a fact I could not have had them welded any higher without removing and relocating the rear brake bias unit.

I actually cut out, modified and welded in a couple of gussets in the brake bias area. I had to clearance a few out other areas, one to clear the shiftrod boot.
But note mine was an RJ mount copy that was copied by someone unknown to me, I scavanged in parts from a 911 mount and the plans had a few mistakes as well.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

AFAIK vellios (rip) designed the mount first and then Rich Johnson copied it. I have the Rich Johnson mount. Couldn’t be happier with it. Tilting the engine with the Other mount makes no sense if you have heat exchangers, etc in the way.
I also have no shift rod or engine height issues. My shift rod is a straight rod with no bends. Worked fine with the previous 2.7 and now 3.2 power plant.