914-6 Conversion Shift Linkage Question, (Firewall Back) Options

[IronHillRestorations]

You can't use a stock 4 side shift bar as is in any way, shape form, or fashion; it's got to be modified. When I was making shift bars I would use an early tail shifter and use those bends. I quit doing them when 3 other guys started making them too. No animas, just not worth it for me.

Basically the bar needs to go about 1/2" down and away from the centerline (looking from the back of the car at the firewall) at about 8 o'clock, then back up the same way at the back. Also the rear that goes into the side shift console isn't straight, it's got a bit of an angle to it. All you've got to do is take off the coupler clamp it in a vise and you'll see the angle at the tail end that you've got to maintain

[gandalf_025]

I have a friend that bought the Naro mount and
decided to have it professionally welded in.
He hired a welder out of the Portsmouth Naval Shipyard
to do it. When done, it was too low for the tin to line up
and the shift rod didn’t clear.
Welder builds Submarines, so I found it hard to believe
he installed the parts wrong.
Took some serious modifying to get it to work...

[RichPugh]

You can't use a stock 4 side shift bar as is in any way, shape form, or fashion; it's got to be modified. When I was making shift bars I would use an early tail shifter and use those bends. I quit doing them when 3 other guys started making them too. No animas, just not worth it for me.

Basically the bar needs to go about 1/2" down and away from the centerline (looking from the back of the car at the firewall) at about 8 o'clock, then back up the same way at the back. Also the rear that goes into the side shift console isn't straight, it's got a bit of an angle to it. All you've got to do is take off the coupler clamp it in a vise and you'll see the angle at the tail end that you've got to maintain

Noted. Yea, the rear section into the side shift guide being "not straight" was my concern. I know the guide allows for some play but its so important for the alignment to be correct that it simply wont shift into all gears correctly if its off/out. I'm gonna play with it a little... There's not much else I have to do to get it driving so I guess a little trial & error with making a shift rod is my new end to 2020, lol.

I have a friend that bought the Naro mount and
decided to have it professionally welded in.
He hired a welder out of the Portsmouth Naval Shipyard
to do it. When done, it was too low for the tin to line up
and the shift rod didn’t clear.
Welder builds Submarines, so I found it hard to believe
he installed the parts wrong.
Took some serious modifying to get it to work...

Yea, I think the consensus is the Naro mount, when welded in as instructed, is simply not right. It sits too low for the engine tin to mate up to the rubber seals and it causes interference with the shift rod. I'm bummed but I'm not taking the engine out to re-weld it 1/2"-3/4" higher. I dunno... maybe I will. I hate that it is so off. Very disappointed.

[JOEPROPER]

This is disappointing. Maybe the Naro Racing people will chime in here with a solution...

[mb911]

You can't use a stock 4 side shift bar as is in any way, shape form, or fashion; it's got to be modified. When I was making shift bars I would use an early tail shifter and use those bends. I quit doing them when 3 other guys started making them too. No animas, just not worth it for me.

Basically the bar needs to go about 1/2" down and away from the centerline (looking from the back of the car at the firewall) at about 8 o'clock, then back up the same way at the back. Also the rear that goes into the side shift console isn't straight, it's got a bit of an angle to it. All you've got to do is take off the coupler clamp it in a vise and you'll see the angle at the tail end that you've got to maintain

Noted. Yea, the rear section into the side shift guide being "not straight" was my concern. I know the guide allows for some play but its so important for the alignment to be correct that it simply wont shift into all gears correctly if its off/out. I'm gonna play with it a little... There's not much else I have to do to get it driving so I guess a little trial & error with making a shift rod is my new end to 2020, lol.

I have a friend that bought the Naro mount and
decided to have it professionally welded in.
He hired a welder out of the Portsmouth Naval Shipyard
to do it. When done, it was too low for the tin to line up
and the shift rod didn’t clear.
Welder builds Submarines, so I found it hard to believe
he installed the parts wrong.
Took some serious modifying to get it to work...

Yea, I think the consensus is the Naro mount, when welded in as instructed, is simply not right. It sits too low for the engine tin to mate up to the rubber seals and it causes interference with the shift rod. I'm bummed but I'm not taking the engine out to re-weld it 1/2"-3/4" higher. I dunno... maybe I will. I hate that it is so off. Very disappointed.

Yup I did the same thing.. Thats why I can no longer recommend the mount for street cars.. Race cars sure no problem but street car with heat, engine tins that should seal are a no go..

Again I do have a fixture to make this work out of a 4cyl side shift rod if anyone needs one done let me know.

[live free & drive]

I don't know if you all have seen these posts comparing the Naro and Patrick mounts side by side, but it's in this thread:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=PATRICK++MOUNT

It would be nice if Naro offered a stock location crossbar moving the engine up 3/4" and rearward 1/2". It would not be too hard to jig up for that.

[nditiz1]

@richpugh I have a modified shift shaft that Ben did for my build. It has a slight bend and will be used with the oem style mount. You are more than welcome to try it out since I'm not close to that part in my build. Just let me know, I'm probably about a 30 - 40min drive for you.

[RichPugh]

@richpugh I have a modified shift shaft that Ben did for my build. It has a slight bend and will be used with the oem style mount. You are more than welcome to try it out since I'm not close to that part in my build. Just let me know, I'm probably about a 30 - 40min drive for you.

Thanks! Will totally try it out! I'll be there in 45 minutes! LOL.
You avail this weekend?

[RichPugh]

I don't know if you all have seen these posts comparing the Naro and Patrick mounts side by side, but it's in this thread:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=PATRICK++MOUNT

It would be nice if Naro offered a stock location crossbar moving the engine up 3/4" and rearward 1/2". It would not be too hard to jig up for that.

Skimmed thru... Yea, that would be nice. A new engine side portion of the mount wouldnt be too terribly hard to fab up or modify. Something that can allow the mounts to stay where they are but position the engine up 3/4" and further towards the rear about 1/4-1/2"... Maybe thats the move. I'm gonna get it moving under its own power first but perhaps I should start modding the engine side cradle and bar to actually position the engine more close to stock.

I'm not terribly mad at Naro. They didnt sell the product as anything other than a race mount and clearly said it positioned the engine lower. I just didnt know it was going to cause shift linkage interference.

[JmuRiz]

I’m sure I’ll send my /4 rod to Ben....maybe in a box with an old one of his (at least I think so) sport muffler to rally muffler modify (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[nditiz1]

I will be around all weekend. Shoot me a PM with your contact info.

[mb911]

Rich and Nick the only issue with using that linkage I moded is it was not modded for a naro mount

[nditiz1]

Understood Ben. So do you have two jigs, one for the Naro scape setup and one for the OEM style?

[mb911]

Understood Ben. So do you have two jigs, one for the Naro scape setup and one for the OEM style?

For a naro mount I would have create a cut out to clear the chain case on the engine otherwise the same fixture.

[Tdskip]

Oh boy - I was planning on welding in the Naro Mount on my /6 today. This is giving me pause...

[mb911]

Oh boy - I was planning on welding in the Naro Mount on my /6 today. This is giving me pause...

If you do just weld it 3/4" higher then it says. Also note I found that it pulls the trans mounts forward about 7 degrees which translates to the mount being to short aft in my mind.

[Mark Henry]

I made my own RJ copy mount*, I mounted the bulkhead mount to the motor, then I raised the engine and trans into position and bolted up the rear trans mounts. I got the engine raised up to where I wanted it to sit and I tack welded the mount in place. I put in enough tack welds to hold the weight of the engine, took out the jack and confirmed that it was sitting correct with full weight.

In lining up my home made bulkhead mount I found several areas I had to mod and/or clearance before I tacked it in. I got it right first time but I could have easily cut out the tack welds and reposition it if needed.

Only when I was totally happy and tacked in did I remove the engine/trans and fully weld in the mount.

* Special thanks to @peteyd at RD for laser cutting the parts for the mount.

[mb911]

I made my own RJ copy mount, I mounted the bulkhead mount to the motor, then I raised the engine and trans into position and bolted up the rear trans mounts. I got the engine raised up to where I wanted it to sit and I tack welded the mount in place. I put in enough tack welds to hold the weight of the engine, took out the jack and confirmed that it was sitting correct with full weight.

In lining up my home made bulkhead mount I found several areas I had to mod and/or clearance before I tacked it in. I got it right first time but I could have easily cut out the tack welds and reposition it if needed.

Only when I was totally happy and tacked in did I remove the engine/trans and fully weld in the mount.

That is what I did with my 1st conversion.. This time I made a factory copy and used the mad dog engine side and used factory measurements.. Was spot on and works perfectly.

[Mark Henry]

That is what I did with my 1st conversion.. This time I made a factory copy and used the mad dog engine side and used factory measurements.. Was spot on and works perfectly.

Not mounting the bar to the engine and then mounting the engine with transmission and bolting up the rear mounts is the OP's big mistake.
This step must be done every time...I don't give a flying fuchs who made the mount.

[nditiz1]

@tdskip try to return the naroscape if you can and go with the mad dog oem. Its a little more, think I padis ~400 for the mount and bushing, but it will be worth it having everything sit where it is supposed to.