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#81
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,740 Joined: 1-December 17 From: soCal Member No.: 21,666 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
Interesting - I just welding the Naro mount in 3/4 inch higher than directions but did NOT have to adjust the transmission mounts at all. It located the rear mount perfectly - like totally bang on perfect. I am running a 3.2 but don’t think that makes any real difference.
Maybe the slant of the firewall is enough to better locate it once it is mounted higher? |
RichPugh |
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#82
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 132 Joined: 28-October 14 From: Baltimore, MD Member No.: 18,068 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() |
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#83
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,740 Joined: 1-December 17 From: soCal Member No.: 21,666 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
Maybe the slant of the firewall is enough to better locate it once it is mounted higher? I assumed that same result if I had welded it higher. Did you have trouble with room for the rear brake bias valve? I removed it but don’t think I actually had to. I did screw up in that I left the line to it under the mount rather than on top but that is fixable. I was under the gun to get the drivetrain in so I could move the car so I punted on that for today. |
JOEPROPER |
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#84
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The answer is "no" unless you ask... ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,208 Joined: 21-November 15 From: White Plains New York Member No.: 19,387 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
@RichPugh How did you make out with that engine mount?
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RichPugh |
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#85
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 132 Joined: 28-October 14 From: Baltimore, MD Member No.: 18,068 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() |
I was able to ignore it while procrastinating and doing nothing. Well, doing other stuff, completely unrelated to the 914, as per the 914 project handbook, "Step 4: Stop working on 914 and do other stuff". LOL I'm planning to finish the stuff in the front this week or next... I.e., putting the fresh air blower box and fan back in, wiring and plumbing the fuel pump, dropping the tank back in... THEN I can roll it off the lift, spin the lift around, put it BACK up in the air with the lift positioned where I can remove the engine... and THEN I'll stare at the mount until I repeat step 4 again. The goal is to weld a new plate to the face of the engine side of the mount with the holes positioned up 3/4"-1" upwards... that should do it. -Rich |
RichPugh |
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#86
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 132 Joined: 28-October 14 From: Baltimore, MD Member No.: 18,068 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() |
UPDATE: Sent the car to Lufteknic in Richmond 2 years ago and told them to make it work, lol.
Told then "no rush", concentrated on life and I just got it back a couple months ago... been buttoning up some wiring and electrical issues but its a running driving car again! Lufteknic ended up reengineering the engine side cradle part of the mount to reposition the engine up and forward in good position. The tins arent perfectly sealed off with the rubber but its 95% better than it was. That gave clearance for the PMS shift rod and that was the goal. I'm considering the Jwest shifter now since the stock one is still just so vague feeling. I'm working on getting my John Bell quad-gauge fully operational and then, once I have functioning oil pressure and temp gauges, I'll go beat on it on some backroads. |
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