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> Oil leak repair
FJ1200
post May 30 2020, 08:28 AM
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Greetings,

Fairly new to the forums and owner of a 1972 teener. I bought the car last spring with a slightly hot rodded 2.0 and a side shift conversion. The true upside is ZERO rust, I have a lift and have inspected every inch of the car.

The issue I have is that the oil filter flange is leaking badly (1qt/20 miles). Upon inspection it appears that the upper nut can not be removed without removing the oil cooler. I have new oil cooler seals and the oil filter flange gasket coming from Auto Atlanta. Question is, has anyone ever removed the filter flange in the car? I really would rather not perform an engine drop this week, but I will if needed.

Just a little background, until 5 yrs ago I was an Audi dealer shop foreman for 25 years. As a result the nuts and bolts don't bother me at all. It is more current time constraints and the want to drive the car.

Thanks,

Daniel
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Superhawk996
post May 30 2020, 08:43 AM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

Wecome to 914's.

Two rules of 914's.

1) No such thing as zero rust. It's there somewhere. By the time they arrived on our shores from overseas via boat they had surface rust beginning inside various panels that you can't easily see into (sail panels, longitudinals, etc.). You just haven't found it yet. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) But seriouly, there are some really nice cars out there sounds like you've found one. Great job!

2) Almost all serious engine work is better performed by dropping the engine. It's a mid-engine thing. Sure there are lots of people that find ways to do things with the engine in the car. But, the reality is that it is so simple and easy to drop the engine that it is usually faster to just do that than to fart around trying to keep the engine in and then working twice as hard to access parts. Yes, this applies to the oil cooler.


Before you assume it's the oil cooler or oil cooler seals, check the oil pressure sensor. They often leak and then the oil drips down around the flange that you're seeing.
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FJ1200
post May 30 2020, 08:55 AM
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Thanks, for the response.

I know, there has to be some rust somewhere. Lets just say there are no holes I can find anywhere.

As far as dropping the engine, i have no issues doing it. I would just rather not if I don't have to. It looks like you can remove the three oil cooler nuts in situ and and slide the cooler away to change the seals, but it appears it will still overhang the upper edge of the filter flange and not allow removal. As far as the oil pressure sender (switch?) I assume you are referring to the unit on top of the case just behind the distributor. I will head to the shop and check it and report.

Thanks,

Daniel
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Superhawk996
post May 30 2020, 09:11 AM
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QUOTE(FJ1200 @ May 30 2020, 10:55 AM) *

Thanks, for the response.

I know, there has to be some rust somewhere. Lets just say there are no holes I can find anywhere.

As far as dropping the engine, i have no issues doing it. I would just rather not if I don't have to. It looks like you can remove the three oil cooler nuts in situ and and slide the cooler away to change the seals, but it appears it will still overhang the upper edge of the filter flange and not allow removal. As far as the oil pressure sender (switch?) I assume you are referring to the unit on top of the case just behind the distributor. I will head to the shop and check it and report.

Thanks,

Daniel


Yes, the oil pressure swich.

There are most certainly people that have replaced the cooler and seals with the engine in the car.

However, dropping the engine makes it a much easier job and then allows you access for inspection of other things (leaks, mouse nests inside tin, etc.) and helps ensure that when you reinstall the oil cooler that the seals are in the proper position.

Once you've done a engine drop or two, it literally is a couple hours of work. Trying to remove fan housing tin, the fan housing, pulleys, etc. with engine in the car is more work in my opinion.

All mid engine cars (Porsche, Ferrari, Lambo, Fiat X/19's, etc.) are all more of less this way. Just easier to drop the engine.
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FJ1200
post May 30 2020, 09:31 AM
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Just checked the oil pressure switch, dry. As a matter of fact the case is dusty around it. Usually an active leak like this will wash any dust away.

Sounds like I will probably just drop the engine/trans this morning. I was hoping to wait until the fall as I need to rebuild the trans. 1st/2nd syncros are junk and will probably need 2 operating sleeves and dogs as well. With Porsche parts prices what they are this will be a pricey repair.

Thanks,

Daniel
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Superhawk996
post May 30 2020, 09:44 AM
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QUOTE(FJ1200 @ May 30 2020, 11:31 AM) *

With Porsche parts prices what they are this will be a pricey repair.



(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) Honestly, I owned a Miata for years after my 1st 914 got wrecked. Initially I thought the Miata parts would be way chaper than Porsche parts but really they weren't that much chaper.

Post on the FS/WTB forum and you'll likely find what you need at reasonable prices.

If I recall, it wasn't that long ago and someone was selling sleeves, reasonably unworn syncro's, etc. Most of the guys selling on the classified forum are just trying to make parts available to those in need at resonable prices.

If you haven't messed with Porsche 901 transmissions get the Dr. Evil transmission repair CD. Worth the cost and he has some funny little comments in there to boot. There are a couple fo special tools that can be made of bought to make the trans work easier and to make sure you don't end up with misalignment of the shift rods, etc.
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FJ1200
post May 30 2020, 09:54 AM
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Thanks,

I have not done a 901, but I have done Audi 016, 01E AND 01A as well a a 915 and a 930 box. I actually love doing trans work it makes me remember what it was like to actually fix things rather than just bolt in units. I actually just remembered that I also did all of the syncros in my X1/9 20 years ago.

By the way, 996 Superhawk, fun bike. I have a love for V/L twins as an ex Ducati owner (3 new ones). Current steed is a 1993 FJ1200 with 90k on it (bought with 6k) and an RZ350 bored and stroked to 421 with R1 suspension.

Regards,

Daniel
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Superhawk996
post May 30 2020, 10:05 AM
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QUOTE(FJ1200 @ May 30 2020, 11:54 AM) *

Thanks,

I have not done a 901, but I have done Audi 016, 01E AND 01A as well a a 915 and a 930 box. I actually love doing trans work it makes me remember what it was like to actually fix things rather than just bolt in units. I actually just remembered that I also did all of the syncros in my X1/9 20 years ago.

By the way, 996 Superhawk, fun bike. I have a love for V/L twins as an ex Ducati owner (3 new ones). Current steed is a 1993 FJ1200 with 90k on it (bought with 6k) and an RZ350 bored and stroked to 421 with R1 suspension.

Regards,

Daniel


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) I was assuming that is what the FJ1200 was. Thats a bunch of miles (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)

I'm a fan of twins in any configuration. No Ducati for me yet but I will have one before I die. Love the sound of those jangly clutches. Tried to start the Guzzi last week. No go. Need a new battery.
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North Coast Jim
post May 30 2020, 10:07 AM
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Buy the Harbor Freight hydraulic lift table. The 800 lb version. It will support both the engine and tranny. Easy peasey. You just need to get the car up in height far enough. Thought I read you had a lift so all is good. I can do my carb'd engine in 1 hr 45 min. Just did it a week ago.
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Bleyseng
post May 30 2020, 10:19 AM
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FJ1200
post May 30 2020, 10:19 AM
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Thanks for the input guys, money is a little tight right now until I start a new job in (fingers crossed) 2-3 weeks. So buying the HF table is not in the cards, although I might be able to talk my father into it as I need to do an engine drop on his 86 911 for a clutch and fuel lines.

What Guzzi? I had an 850 Le Mans back in the day, loved it. Rolled through the twisties nicely and just kind of lumped along.

Daniel
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FJ1200
post May 30 2020, 12:12 PM
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All right, I am going to attempt to post a picture of the 914 as I bought it. I will admit I am not the best at posting pictures to forums.

DanielAttached Image
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ndfrigi
post May 30 2020, 01:08 PM
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QUOTE(FJ1200 @ May 30 2020, 11:12 AM) *

All right, I am going to attempt to post a picture of the 914 as I bought it. I will admit I am not the best at posting pictures to forums.

DanielAttached Image


Beautiful 914 you have there.
Missed my 1st 914 same color as yours and the wheels. But maybe you can do 5 lugs also like what i did to mine before I sold it.

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FJ1200
post May 31 2020, 06:06 AM
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Well, I bit the bullet and dropped the engine/trans. Not bad, 40 minutes to the ground. I should mention it has twin webers which I am sure makes it easier. Found both nuts holding the oil filter flange to the case about two turns loose and the gasket blown out. I feel confident that the new gasket and possibly a drop of blue loctite will fix the oil leak. I also will reseal the oil cooler while I am in there as a matter of course.

Any other recommendations "while I am in there"? Valves are adjusted within the last 500 miles, pushrod tubes are clean and dry.

Thanks,

Daniel
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Superhawk996
post May 31 2020, 07:47 AM
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FJ1200
post Jun 2 2020, 05:33 PM
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Miracle of all miracles, all of the oil stays in the engine (for the most part). I replaced the oil filter flange gasket and resealed the oil cooler. Checked the valves while it was out and tidied up the engine bay a bit. The fuel lines were looking pretty ragged, so I replaced them with modern German hose rated for ethanol fuels. Took it for a 20 mile road test and not a drop in sight.

Thanks for any input.

Daniel
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Morrie
post Feb 8 2023, 08:14 PM
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Rather than create a new thread, I am going to jump on an oil leak thread that is already out there that is in the same vein.

I've pulled the drivetrain to do some leak repair. I know I need to do pushrod tube seals and valve cover gaskets. I assumed I had oil galley plugs leaking and possibly oil cooler, so I pulled the shroud.

I have not cleaned the case, so the oil you see there is as it was when I pulled the fan housing. I see greasy engine but not the heavy dripping I see on the ground. I do see oil dripping off the filter bottom in the car and now seeing the top I see oil pooled on top of the filter stand. I do not see indications of oil coming from the cooler or cooler seals, the oil pressure sender, the oil filler box, etc.... (yes, the copious amounts of sealant used is cringe worthy and not my doing)

I have thoughts of stuck oil pressure relief valve, crack, warp, or defect in the filter stand, or filters that just don't seal. Has anyone seen this and root caused it?

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Dave_Darling
post Feb 8 2023, 09:00 PM
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There's at least a decent chance that much of your oil is coming from those seals that have the extra goop on them.

Hopefully that's not a crack I see where the oil pressure sender threads in.

--DD
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Geezer914
post Feb 9 2023, 06:55 AM
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Nice! Love the color. With a 914 that's almost 50 years old, there is always something to fix. That's part of the fun!
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Superhawk996
post Feb 9 2023, 09:06 AM
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Someone else just went through a similar leak with puddling on top of the oil filter.

Problem was oil filter was not properly tightened. Simple mistake.

Same thing going on here?
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