Oil leak repair Options

[Superhawk996]

Hopefully that's not a crack I see where the oil pressure sender threads in.

--DD

OP should verify but I don’t think so. I have a casting that looks a lot like that with casting flash in that same area.

[Morrie]

Hopefully that's not a crack I see where the oil pressure sender threads in.

--DD

OP should verify but I don’t think so. I have a casting that looks a lot like that with casting flash in that same area.

I will definitely look at it and make sure there is not a crack on the pressure sender port. It is probably casting related but need to be sure NOW rather than wonder later.

[Morrie]

Someone else just went through a similar leak with puddling on top of the oil filter.

Problem was oil filter was not properly tightened. Simple mistake.

Same thing going on here?

That was my first thought (hope) but the filter is snug and this has been leaking over the course of several oil filter changes.

I do have a couple spare filter stands. I am going to look very closely for defects on the sealing bead on the casting where it meets the filter, just to be sure.

You don't think that a stuck oil pressure relief valve pushing oil past the filter seal could be at fault? I hate to pull them if there is little to no chance but if someone thinks it is possible I will.

Would you pull all those threaded galley plugs and reseal them? If so, what sealant would you use? Sorry for all the dumb questions. Try not to be too hard on me. I've rebuilt 616 engines with no leaks so I know it is possible, but the galley plugs we use on those are press in replacements.

[Superhawk996]

Oil pressure relief valve has no bearing on the oil filter seal. The oil filter always sees full pressure and does have its own bypass if filter becomes clogged and pressure is too high.



Far more likely to be those janky oil cooler seals. The galley plugs aren’t wet and have no direct path to deposit oil on top of the filter. I’d leave the galley plugs alone - don’t introduce new variables.

Clean everything well. Replace oil cooler seals and stay away sealants on them. Put UV dye in the oil.

Hopefully there is no leak. If there is trace it via the dye trail.

[Morrie]

Oil pressure relief valve has no bearing on the oil filter seal. The oil filter always sees full pressure and does have its own bypass if filter becomes clogged and pressure is too high.



Far more likely to be those janky oil cooler seals. The galley plugs aren’t wet and have no direct path to deposit oil on top of the filter. I’d leave the galley plugs alone - don’t introduce new variables.

Clean everything well. Replace oil cooler seals and stay away sealants on them. Put UV dye in the oil.

Hopefully there is no leak. If there is trace it via the dye trail.

Thank you for the education, advice, and encouragement! I will take this back to the car this weekend and get to work!

[bkrantz]

Someone else just went through a similar leak with puddling on top of the oil filter.

Problem was oil filter was not properly tightened. Simple mistake.

Same thing going on here?

That was my first thought (hope) but the filter is snug and this has been leaking over the course of several oil filter changes.

I do have a couple spare filter stands. I am going to look very closely for defects on the sealing bead on the casting where it meets the filter, just to be sure.

You don't think that a stuck oil pressure relief valve pushing oil past the filter seal could be at fault? I hate to pull them if there is little to no chance but if someone thinks it is possible I will.

Would you pull all those threaded galley plugs and reseal them? If so, what sealant would you use? Sorry for all the dumb questions. Try not to be too hard on me. I've rebuilt 616 engines with no leaks so I know it is possible, but the galley plugs we use on those are press in replacements.

That was me. I HOPE most of the oil that leaked on mine came out of the filter, but I have changed some other things, too.

I would not pull the galley plugs unless you have some evidence that one is leaking.

I sympathize with your struggle. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

[Superhawk996]

That was me.

I didn’t want to rat on you (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[930cabman]

I was chasing an oil leak at the front end and found one at one of the oil galley plugs, could see it seeping while the engine was running. Got her fixed but still have a bit leaking from the front end.

How many do NOT leak?

[Superhawk996]

I was chasing an oil leak at the front end and found one at one of the oil galley plugs, could see it seeping while the engine was running. Got her fixed but still have a bit leaking from the front end.

How many do NOT leak?

@930cabman

Many rebuilds are sealed with steel plugs. Difference in thermal expansion between aluminum case and steel plug doesn’t help. Factory used aluminum plugs for a reason.

[bkrantz]

That was me.

I didn’t want to rat on you (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

I appreciate it. But like I said in my oil leak thread, I have no shame--I would rather get rid of the leak.

[930cabman]

I was chasing an oil leak at the front end and found one at one of the oil galley plugs, could see it seeping while the engine was running. Got her fixed but still have a bit leaking from the front end.

How many do NOT leak?

@930cabman

Many rebuilds are sealed with steel plugs. Difference in thermal expansion between aluminum case and steel plug doesn’t help. Factory used aluminum plugs for a reason.

When I built the engine a year ago I used Earls aluminum plugs and have had two leak. I found one behind the flywheel (repaired prior to installing the engine) and most recent this one on the other end. I completed the repair laying on my back on the shop floor and removed the engine support bar. Still not easy access, but possible. Don't tell anyone but I used a tapered brass plug. Call me a DAPO, but the leak is stopped (for now)

[Superhawk996]

I was chasing an oil leak at the front end and found one at one of the oil galley plugs, could see it seeping while the engine was running. Got her fixed but still have a bit leaking from the front end.

How many do NOT leak?

@930cabman

Many rebuilds are sealed with steel plugs. Difference in thermal expansion between (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) aluminum case and steel plug doesn’t help. Factory used aluminum plugs for a reason.

When I built the engine a year ago I used Earls aluminum plugs and have had two leak. I found one behind the flywheel (repaired prior to installing the engine) and most recent this one on the other end. I completed the repair laying on my back on the shop floor and removed the engine support bar. Still not easy access, but possible. Don't tell anyone but I used a tapered brass plug. Call me a DAPO, but the leak is stopped (for now)

Brass better than steel since it’s much closer in thermal expansion to aluminum.

The trick I’ve found helpful for galley plugs in aluminum:

Heat the case and freeze the plug. I like to freeze the plug on dry ice. House freezer will work but you’ll get more shrink and more time for install of the plug on dry ice. Quickly install the NPT plug as deep as possible with a good interference fit using light coat of anti-seize on the plug to keep things moving easily during install. As the case cools you have an even tighter fit.

The downside is you’ll never get the Aluminum plug out. The aluminum hex will strip if you try. No worry - I had to drill the OEM galley plugs out initially. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)