Time to un-DAPO the "new" car, Bad things happened to a nice car Options

[BillC]

Did you seal the bolt for the thermostat pulley?

Yup, small amount of sealant on the threads prior to screwing in the bolt.

[BillC]

The last of the engine parts came in -- thermostat & related parts from Awesome Powdercoat, and the oil pressure relief valve from Tangerine Racing. Here's a pic of the thermostat installed:

The thermostat itself from Awesome Powdercoat is a very nice piece. Unfortunately, his bracket needed quite a bit of finessing for everything to fit & line up correctly. And the pulley he sells is a storm door roller that seems to be a little smaller than the original -- I had to file the cable hole in the sheet metal aft about 3/16" to keep the cable from dragging.

Fortunately, the oil pressure relief valve went right in place with no issue, once I found the tool I made years ago for unscrewing the retaining bolt. No pics of that though, since there isn't anything to see once it's all in.

[BillC]

Lots of other things going on, now that winter is ending, but I have made some progress on the 914.

Since my last update, I have been preparing the engine compartment so the engine can be reinstalled. So far, I have scraped out and replaced cracked seam sealer, treated more areas with rust converter, installed new seals around the engine tin opening and finished installing the stainless steel fuel lines.

Here are a couple of pics:

[windforfun]

What rust converter did you use? POR-15?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)

[BillC]

What rust converter did you use? POR-15?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)

POR-15 isn't a rust converter, it's a paint. It may seal rust from moisture, but it doesn't actually do anything to the rust (except stick to it). Plus, I've heard plenty of bad stories about POR-15 failures.

I'm using this:

It chemically converts rust to a different iron compound that is chemically inert as well as sealing the surface. There are other brands with the same action, this is what the FLAPS had on the shelf.

[windforfun]

Ditto on that. So how does this stuff convert rust to a different compound? How does this stuff work better that POR-15? Just curious.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corrosion

I remember now, it converts rust into what? Now I can't remember. Plutonium perhaps.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rust_converter

[windforfun]

See item # 4:

https://mechanicbase.com/reviews/best-rust-converter/

And Bob's your uncle ("Mission Impossible - Dead Reckoning" IIRC.)

[bkrantz]

Nice work. You might want to miter the corners of the engine compartment seals so they will close up tightly when the engine is in place.

[barefoot]

What rust converter did you use? POR-15?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)

POR-15 isn't a rust converter, it's a paint. It may seal rust from moisture, but it doesn't actually do anything to the rust (except stick to it). Plus, I've heard plenty of bad stories about POR-15 failures.

I'm using this:

It chemically converts rust to a different iron compound that is chemically inert as well as sealing the surface. There are other brands with the same action, this is what the FLAPS had on the shelf.

I'll second that, the Loctite stuff did the trick, turns the surface a dull black.
Barefoot

[914_Tcup]

I am so impressed by the way you documented your work...I (we) owe you for this!
Thank You. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)

You showed me the amount of misery and pleasure I have ahead, but knowing there are these different methods in solving the problems gives me hope in restoring my car.

Do you have a post somewhere about your "Boxster"? I am looking at purchasing one, but want to see what others who wrench on them think. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[BillC]

You might want to miter the corners of the engine compartment seals so they will close up tightly when the engine is in place.

That's a good suggestion. However, I think I'll wait until after the engine is in, just so I don't accidentally trim too much off.

IIRC, the factory actually installed hog rings to keep the corners closed.

Do you have a post somewhere about your "Boxster"? I am looking at purchasing one, but want to see what others who wrench on them think. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

The Boxster is a '99 that I bought as a failed restoration and turned into a Spec Boxster race car. The guy I bought the car from bought it from an estate sale, but quickly realized it needed more work than was financially effective -- the roof was torn, the a/c shot, clutch slipped, old brakes & bearings, mice had moved into the center console, etc. This was perfect for a race car donor, since it was all stuff that would be removed or replaced in the conversion process.

Being a newer car, it is a little more complicated to work on (as a street car) than a 914. But the best part is virtually no rust -- the factory rust protection was greatly improved over the intervening 26 years. As a race car, though, it is fairly simple to work on, since most of the complicated stuff (a/c, heat, folding roof, interior, radio, etc.) has been removed.

Sorry, no post about the car, though. However, I did write a 2-part article about the conversion a couple of years ago for the local PCA chapter magazine, Der Vorganger. If anyone is really interested, I can see about copy/pasting it here.

[BillC]

In today's episode of "Trying to work on the 914 while life gets in the way", I finished wiring up the third brake light. I wanted to make sure I could remove the engine lid without having to remove all the wiring, and also to connect it to the car without modifying the factory harness.

First step was installing a plug at the base of the engine lid, so I can unplug the wires if the lid has to come out. I bought a Deutsch connector kit and crimp tool on amazon, and was pleasantly surprised at how well the crimp tool works.


For the wiring, I bought a roll of dual-conductor 16-ga wire in a black sheath, and ran it under the firewall padding and along the factory harness. Then, I used these piggyback connectors to tie into the left, rear brake light:

I made sure to heatshrink some insulation over the piggybacks, just to help keep things from shorting.

Finally, here's a pic of the 3rd light lit up:

The trunk lid isn't closed, which is why it looks a little funky.

[FlacaProductions]

Worthwhile addition - nice work.

[bkrantz]

Very cool.