Time to un-DAPO the "new" car, Bad things happened to a nice car Options

[BillC]

Seized hands might just do it in for good but if you're up for messing around, you probably can't break it any more than it already is!

Try these links:
https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911...ock-repair.html

https://www.912bbs.org/forum/threads/kienzl...k-repair.62594/

Hope it helps - I love those little clocks for some reason.

Thank you very much for those links. I have contact cleaner and clock oil on order, so I might it a go next week, to open up the clock and see if I can get it working again -- as you said, it's unlikely I'll break it any more. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Well, I opened up the clock, and have good news and bad news. The good news is that the low-temp solder is intact. The bad news is the clock doesn't run because the mechanism is heavily rusted. So, I ordered a repro clock from AA.

Someone had already been inside this clock, because the warranty plastic was already broken off.

[FlacaProductions]

Shoot. Good try!

[BillC]

Did some more maintenance on the 914, fixed the oil temp gauge and got bit by the DAPO once again.

On the drive we took after installing the center console, I noticed that the oil temp gauge didn't work. So, yesterday, I got out the multimeter and started testing. I started by pulling the gauge and checking the signal wire for continuity, but no joy.

Hmmm, problem located, now to find the open. I first checked the connection at the other end of the console harness, and that was okay. Next step was to climb under the car and make sure the wire from the sensor was intact, and it was. Last place to check was the connection in the engine compartment -- of course, that connection is under the wiring harness which is under the ECU, essentially a real bear to get to. I unbolted the ECU and moved it out of the way, and discovered I forgot to plug the sensor wire into the harness. Oops. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) It was a pain to get plugged in, but it is now and I actually saw the needle move on the gauge when I turned on the ignition -- very promising. Can't test drive until I finish the other project I'm working on.

So, the hood never really fit properly since I got the car. It was off-center and also pushed up along the sides. I read something a while ago that some aftermarket gaskets were too thick, so I ordered a factory gasket to replace it. When I pulled the old gasket, I discovered some rust and a bunch of old glue.


So, first step was to remove the old glue. I tried rubbing it out, as described in a 914Rubber video, but that glue was well-stuck. I did some googling, and found a number of posts recomending 3M Low VOC Adhesive Remover, so I bought a can. It did work (slowly) on the old glue, but it turned out to be better at removing the paint than the glue. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)


At that point, I decided to see if anything else I already had would remove the glue. Believe-it-or-not, CRC Brakleen worked great! -- it softened the glue almost immediately, and did not attack the paint nearly as much as the adhesive remover.


Then, I scraped the rust down and then painted it with the Loctite Rust Converter. I let it dry overnight, and then primed the treated spots. Then, I masked off the channels and painted them.


After the second coat, I removed the masking and reinstalled the bumper.


While I was working on the channels, I checked the hood hinges and discovered the DAPO surprise -- the driver's side hinge bracket was messed up. Apparently the hinge bolt snapped off at some point. So, they drilled it out, off-center of course, and then shoved an SAE bolt into the hole. Now I'm looking for a replacement bracket.

I could fix this one, but I would have to weld it up first and then re-drill it centered. This is my fallback plan if I can't find a replacement bracket in a reasonable time.

[BillC]

Now that the paint is dry, I installed the new seal:


It's just fitted in place, without glue. I'm thinking about not gluing it in, since I read a suggestion a while ago about pulling the seal to let the channel dry if the car gets caught in the rain.

[Chad911sc]

I replaced my front hood seal a few months ago and did not glue mine in. It stays perfectly in place without it. I bought mine from 914 Rubber.

[Rob-O]

I replaced my front hood seal a few months ago and did not glue mine in. It stays perfectly in place without it. I bought mine from 914 Rubber.

Same. I installed mine probably ten years ago. No glue. Fits perfect and stays in place.

[Root_Werks]

I replaced my front hood seal a few months ago and did not glue mine in. It stays perfectly in place without it. I bought mine from 914 Rubber.

Same. I installed mine probably ten years ago. No glue. Fits perfect and stays in place.

Same here, about 4 years ago, 914Rubber, no glue. Holds in just fine.

[BillC]

Finally had a chance to work on another task on the car -- hooking up the windshield washers. I picked up a used pump at Hershey years ago, and had meant to do this while the gas tank was out and there was easy access to everything, but where's the challenge in doing it while it's easy? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

I followed @bbrock 's guidance here: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=361176 , and it went easier than when I wired up my previous 914, because the old car didn't have the pre-wiring for the pump in the wiper switch.

I found the brown/black wire taped to the wiring harness, just as Brent mentioned. Since I didn't want to modify the harness, I made an extension wire with a male spade on the end. I found an empty spade on a switched fuse in the fuse block and pulled power from there; the wire was run up through grommet where the main harness passes.

Since I didn't want to drill any new holes in the car, the relay is bolted to the existing hole in one of the cowl supports -- I found a 5mm bolt, so the hole didn't need to be drilled out. The pump is installed under the reservoir with VHB double-sided tape. I used the VHB tape on my previous car, and the pump was still firmly attached 5 years later when I sold the car.

[FlacaProductions]

I used VHB double-sided tape to mount my pump 5 years ago and it's still solid.

[BillC]

Between waiting for the parts and spray paint to arrive, and being at the Summit Point Club Race last weekend, I wasn't able to get the hood reinstalled until last night.

Here's the "new" bracket (cleaned, de-rusted, and painted) next to the old one:


And the hood hinge installed:


And with the hood itself installed:


My son and I spent about 1/2 hour tweaking the positioning of the hood. It isn't perfect, but much better than before.