Re-Conversion of a '70 914, Patching that Big V8 radiator cutout pt. 1 |
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Re-Conversion of a '70 914, Patching that Big V8 radiator cutout pt. 1 |
76-914 |
Jun 28 2020, 08:36 PM
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#1
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Repeat Offender & Resident Subaru Antagonist Group: Members Posts: 13,490 Joined: 23-January 09 From: Temecula, CA Member No.: 9,964 Region Association: Southern California |
The engine is sold. I'll soon have a very fresh 901 w/ an "H" gear for sale as well as some other goodies soon for those planning an SBC conversion. I couldn't do much with this sitting in my garage as it already is stuffed to the max. Therefor I felt it somewhat necessary to sell this before commencing with the re-conversion. I've been silently (yeh, I know; me silent) working in the background for a few months fabricating some items that will be needed. I'll do my best to document things a bit more accurately than the previous conversion. Once again I'll be using the Subaru 6 and Subaru transmission. I've had tremendous success with this platform so I might as well repeat myself. So sit back, bear with me and watch as I stumble along and occasionally embarrass myself. Mistakes are an integral part of my journey. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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76-914 |
Jul 3 2020, 08:08 PM
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#2
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Repeat Offender & Resident Subaru Antagonist Group: Members Posts: 13,490 Joined: 23-January 09 From: Temecula, CA Member No.: 9,964 Region Association: Southern California |
Now return the piece in place and hold the newly cut end very close to the front nut. This will give us room at the back of the plate for the transmission hanger later on. Allow just enough room for the washer to clear the weld bead.
Now go to the front mount and carefully drop a marker thru the 1/2" hole making a mark on the tube. Try your best to be accurate but if not I've got a work around. Now your ready to take the piece to the drill press and drill it's first hole. The first hole will be 1/8". Why? Because odds are you've missed the mark a tiny bit and if so it is easy to correct. The rear attach plate is set at ~15 deg so we need to clamp the piece so that the cut end is at 15 deg. Once that is established we need to check to see if our drill bit is lined up with our mark. If it is then carefully drill the 1/8" hole. If that looks good then increase it to 1/4' or 6mm. Now return the piece to the car and using a long 6mm/1/4" bolt or threaded rod as I did, hang that end from the hanger and set it 1" below the angle iron. now check to see how your cut end mates up with the 3x5 plate. If the tube is for or aft of the desired location drill another small hole to place it in the correct location. Ideally the arc is still 90 deg to the floor but if it is slightly off 1-2 deg it won't matter. This is when you may need to remove a bit more off the cut end if the length is not parallel to the floor while maintaining that 1" gap. When complete with this task both tubes should be parallel to one another because we don't want the cross brace to be higher on one side than the other. It should end up looking something like this but not to worry. This end will be welded and no one will see an imperfect cut anyway. To be continued................ |
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