Re-Conversion of a '70 914, Patching that Big V8 radiator cutout pt. 1 Options

[mgp4591]

Great work Kent. When I rebuilt my pedal assembly I also added a new return spring for the clutch pedal to return it to upright.

Century spring PN TO-1026. I have about 10 spares. If your interested in one I’ll drop it in the mail!

That's a good add to the pedal cluster. If you want to lighten your inventory, I'd love to help you out! Do you have any pics of what it looks like installed?

[ValcoOscar]

Kent-

You are officially a WORLDLY MacGyver! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drunk.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

Can't wait to resume our Sat morning breakfasts @ Richies (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chowtime.gif)

Carry on... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
Oscar

[76-914]

Impressive skills Kent!! As Ferdinand said "nobody made the sports car I wanted, so I made it myself" or something like that....

So Ferdinand was a cheap Bastard too? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

Great work Kent. When I rebuilt my pedal assembly I also added a new return spring for the clutch pedal to return it to upright.

Century spring PN TO-1026. I have about 10 spares. If your interested in one I’ll drop it in the mail!

Ross, you don't need a return spring. It will stay up all by itself. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

You master fabricator, you (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

Jack of all trades, master of none. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Great work Kent. When I rebuilt my pedal assembly I also added a new return spring for the clutch pedal to return it to upright.

Century spring PN TO-1026. I have about 10 spares. If your interested in one I’ll drop it in the mail!

That's a good add to the pedal cluster. If you want to lighten your inventory, I'd love to help you out! Do you have any pics of what it looks like installed?

I'm waiting on an AN# 90 that won't be here until Sunday. After that I'll post a pic.

Kent-

You are officially a WORLDLY MacGyver! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drunk.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

Can't wait to resume our Sat morning breakfasts @ Richies (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chowtime.gif)

Carry on... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
Oscar

Just say when. Let's get Rudy too. Have you seen his shop lately? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif)

[76-914]

Picking up where I left off. Here is a pic of the pedal cluster before it's re-installed. I did not use the AN3 90 pictured as it was too tight against the bulkhead. I did not run into this on the 73 conversion so I was surprised when it didn't fit as planned. This car had some metal work done to it previously and I suspect something changed slightly during that process.





Here are several pics from the underside of it mounted in place. You can see the black AN3 swivel 90 that I used in place of the one in the other pic's. It was tighter than Socks on a Rooster but fit nicely.













A view from inside as it sits before connecting the fork, clevis or throttle cable.







Connecting the pedal to the slave cylinder push rod. You can see the AN3 line in a couple of the pics. It is fed through the old clutch tube.





And a few with the throttle cable connected showing the clearance. It's close but they do clear one another.

[76-914]

And a couple of "finished product" shots. To be continued..............

[76-914]

Half shafts are out. After cut to length & the CV's are removed and they are ready for their trip to the machinist for a re-spline.



Also wired in the neutral switch, installed throttle cable sans the barrel end and the 3" silicon 90 for air intake. Outside of the harness modification, this is the "90% done and 90% to go" phase. So many things left to do after the engine and transmission are in place. Then Frank from AZ came by and picked up the transmission for his Suby conversion this morning. He is hoping for a spring launch, 2021.

[76-914]

The first thing I did was remove the 4 bolts from the shifter that attaches it to the OEM base plate.
EDIT: I should mention that this setup is for cars w/o a center console. If you have a console it is not necessary to cut the tunnel. Nor will it be necessary to cut the shifter base. Simply locate the shifter rod where the old one was. Then drill 4 8mm holes and use 4 studs as stand offs to elevate the shifter base above the tunnel enough to clear it. It will be necessary to raise the deck lid of the console a couple of inches.


Next I marked the base plate along the line of the curvature. Cut it on the flat part before the curve begins so it is nice and flat when screwed down. I also drill out out the threads in the 2 tack welded rear plate nuts at this time.



After cutting the base plate re-attach the shifter assembly to it.



Now hold the assembly with the cut edge adjacent to the flange of the brace that spans from side to side. Then trace out the round part of the shifter base. Next drill that out with a 1.5" hole saw. You can see that the hole ends up next to the 8mm & 6mm existing holes. The hole saw actually removed the 6mm nut that was tack welded in. No matter; that wasn't to be used anyway.





Now sit the shifter assembly back in place. With the round part of the shifter assembly centered in the hole you just cut. Mark the remaining area that needs to be trimmed. Do your best to center the base left & right as there isn't much room for the 2 front bolts.





Then I checked that the shifter sat where it needed to be and that it could move through it's full range of motion. Then using the base plate as the pattern I marked the holes with a center punch. If you don't have a set of center punches you can used the holes in the base plate as a guide for your drill bit.



After drilling the 4 holes I placed 2 8mm bolts from inside the tunnel and used perm-a-gum to hold them in place. Then I placed the shifter assembly over the 2 8mm bolts and attached the nuts. Notice the cut on the base plate is adjacent to the flange on the crossmember.







The front nuts are below the base plate and the right side nut was easy to start but the left side was so close that I had to drill a relief hole from the side of the tunnel. If I had been more careful I would have moved the assembly over 1/4"to the right. After I get the cables I will trim and install the back half of the base plate that was cut off. I will need that part for attaching the cables. To be continued...................



Here are a few pics of it anchored in place.

[914Subaru]

Kent,
This new project is looking good. I was inspired by your H6 at RRC2020 and I purchased a 2003 Outback last week and I have a manual transmission to match up to it. The H6 is such a smooth running engine and I am excited to get in in something soon.

[Montreal914]

Nice shifter location. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
How far back from the original one is the new straight up shift level? I am looking into doing this with the stock setup. Probably upgrading to a Rennshift but with a straight up stick.

From the 904 side drawing, the shifter is before the steering center point (drawing a vertical line down).

The 914/4 or /6 in the center image, is way to the front, as we know. With the bent lever, the movement is much more of an up and down vs. front to back.

Last cross section is the 914-8 where the straight up shifter is pretty much in line (vertical) with the steering center point. The 914-8 had a completely different shifter linkage that actually went 90 degrees to the passenger side in front of the seat, then along the passenger long.

[76-914]

Kent,
This new project is looking good. I was inspired by your H6 at RRC2020 and I purchased a 2003 Outback last week and I have a manual transmission to match up to it. The H6 is such a smooth running engine and I am excited to get in in something soon.

Thx Ross. I was equally impressed with your's. More especially that steel roof. Seamless installation you have there. These Subaru conversions are showing up everywhere these days. Like a marriage made in Heaven, eh? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
EDIT: @914Subaru Ross, I forgot to mention that Outfront Motorsports has the 3 bolt manifold exhaust flanges that you will need when fabricating your exhaust system.

[76-914]

Nice shifter location. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
How far back from the original one is the new straight up shift level? I am looking into doing this with the stock setup. Probably upgrading to a Rennshift but with a straight up stick.

From the 904 side drawing, the shifter is before the steering center point (drawing a vertical line down).

The 914/4 or /6 in the center image, is way to the front, as we know. With the bent lever, the movement is much more of an up and down vs. front to back.

Last cross section is the 914-8 where the straight up shifter is pretty much in line (vertical) with the steering center point. The 914-8 had a completely different shifter linkage that actually went 90 degrees to the passenger side in front of the seat, then along the passenger long.

I'll get you a side view pic once my axles come back from the machine shop. Presently it is on the rack and I can't open the doors enough for a good pic. Can't roll it off away w/o the flanges in the rear wheel bearings either. I'll get a few measurements in the mean time. I will say it is easily within reach where it sits. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
EDIT: @Montreal914 I should be able to roll it off next week as my axles are due back Friday, I hope. I did a visual and it appears that the stalk is lined up with the center of the steering wheel's vertical plane. I'll put a level to it and verify later.

[76-914]

The fuel hose arrived this weekend so I was able to button that up and run the line up for the MC reservoir. That allowed me to install the gas tank. This is the tank that I originally had modified for the conversion on the '73. You might remember that I pulled it installed another with an external pump. That was done when I was chasing my tail and trying to eliminate the vapor lock problem was I was having at that time. Turned out that it had nothing to do with the Subaru submerged pump. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Regardless I kept it and I'm glad that I did. One less thing to do. Beside, I really like having the hose connections on top.







I was able to scratch the throttle cable off the list today. The cable from the V8 was still installed so I thought "What the Hell" nothing to lose. I'll try and modify it for my needs. There isn't much to it. As you can see in the first pic below it was way too long and didn't have the correct end on it either. I needed to shorten the sheath by 12" as well as the 3/16 inner steel cable.





I attached a 5/16 FI style clamp adjacent to the cut. The innermost part of the sheathing has a 3/32" plastic tube. Around that is a SS flat wound wire and finally the black plastic outer layer. I used a Dremel blade to cut the cable. I cut it from the end that mates to the firewall since these are usually falling apart at this junction. Just my luck this on wasn't. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/evilgrin.gif) I was able to remove the 12" section by placing the small end in the vise and clamping down slightly on the edges of each clamp mark.i.e. the clamp they used in the factory is octagon shaped. By pressing slightly on the crown of each corner helps to round out the end al little bit. Then pulling the cable while rotating it clockwise. it slowly backed out. To get the sleeved end back to round I placed a 17/64" drill bit with the bald end up in the vise. Then hammered the sleeve back over it. It only went in about 14". I looked inside the sleeve and noticed these tiny dimples that are there to help grip the sleeve. So I used a 1/4" bit to flatten the dimples some what then followed up with the 17/64" to round it out. Now I was able to thread the cable sheath back onto the sleeve by pushing while turning counter clockwise. It worked like a champ. I won't trim the steel cable until I have the pedal board and gas peddle back in place but that will only take a minute. I'm happy with the way it turned out but in all honesty the only reason I tried this was I had nothing to lose and everything to gain. Start to finish was less than 30 minutes. Sorry about the order of the pics. Something about this site isn't friendly about posting and editing pics with this Mac. Hoping for some upgrades here now that we are supporting it $$$ wise.

[Montreal914]

Thank you for the added shifter information. Looking forward seeing it on a side view, (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Gint]

Excellent work Kent! Subscribed
@76-914

Unfortunately, no, busy with other priorities.

I did, however, purchase a HF welding cart and some supplies, but misplaced my helmet somewhere along the line (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

Mark, long time man. You're supposed to use your new welder to make your own cart. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) @euro911

Kent,
This new project is looking good. I was inspired by your H6 at RRC2020 and I purchased a 2003 Outback last week and I have a manual transmission to match up to it. The H6 is such a smooth running engine and I am excited to get in in something soon.

Thx Ross. I was equally impressed with your's. More especially that steel roof. Seamless installation you have there. These Subaru conversions are showing up everywhere these days. Like a marriage made in Heaven, eh? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
EDIT: @914Subaru Ross, I forgot to mention that Outfront Motorsports has the 3 bolt manifold exhaust flanges that you will need when fabricating your exhaust system.

As was I Ross. Your roof looks fantastic.
@914Subaru

[euro911]

Hey, Mike ( @Gint ). Yes it has been a long time. It happens when there's too much on one's plate ... especially when there's more than one plate to deal with (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

Hope you & Sharon are doing well? ... and maybe, some day, we'll all get to have a beer in some God-forsaken parking lot again somewhere (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[Gint]

Hey, Mike ( @Gint ). Yes it has been a long time. It happens when there's too much on one's plate ... especially when there's more than one plate to deal with (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

Hope you & Sharon are doing well? ... and maybe, some day, we'll all get to have a beer in some God-forsaken parking lot again somewhere (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

Still kicking over here.

It's inevitable!

[76-914]

Future

[76-914]

I thought I should post this for any of you guys that need to cut down your 1/2 shafts for re-fitting to the Subaru TY75 series 5MT. This applies only to the transmissions with the male output stub. . This method of measurement is for applications where the centers of the transmission stub and wheel bearing are lined up vertically & horizontally. If your application is not centered a simple right angle trig calc will give you the exact difference but it ain't going to amount to squat unless you have >3" variance. I do not recommend a common tape measurer for this job. I used a std 6' rule since it won't flex and has the sliding brass rule for inside measurements. Look at the 1st pic below and you will see I use the bearing to measure from. Notice I'm not measuring against the red rubber seal either. I was going to use the edge of the circular part of the drop arm but I found a difference between my '73 and this '70 model. The one pictured is my '70 but my '73 has a raised edge. I figure the metal side of the bearing is the only constant so this is what I measured off.



Now measure the exact distance to the end of the output stub. You can see why I like this "old school" 6' rule in this pic.



Once you have this measurement subtract 1/8" for fitting clearance and then subtract another 2 3/8". Or more simply stated where X = distance between bearing and stub;
X - 2.5" = desired length of half shaft. You can see resulting clearance when installing the assembled half shaft in the pic below. About 1/8" and this is with both CV's compressed in as far as they will go. Once assembled you should be able to slide the 1/2 shaft ~1" side to side.
****NOTE**** Don't assume both side are equal. Measure both sides. Ask me how I know. I made this mistake 6 years ago.



I've used Dutchman Motor Sports for both cars and their price has only increased $5 in the past 6 years. Contact there is Travis. They will need the male stub off of a Subaru 1/2 shaft, the female Spyder or broach off your Subaru CV and your cut to length 914 half shafts. And a payment of ~$175.00.

Dutchman Motor Sports
1250 E. Piper Ct.
Meridian, ID 83642
(503) 257-6604

And a few more pics just to take up space. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) To be continued.................

[76-914]

Nice shifter location. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
How far back from the original one is the new straight up shift level? I am looking into doing this with the stock setup. Probably upgrading to a Rennshift but with a straight up stick.

From the 904 side drawing, the shifter is before the steering center point (drawing a vertical line down).

The 914/4 or /6 in the center image, is way to the front, as we know. With the bent lever, the movement is much more of an up and down vs. front to back.

Last cross section is the 914-8 where the straight up shifter is pretty much in line (vertical) with the steering center point. The 914-8 had a completely different shifter linkage that actually went 90 degrees to the passenger side in front of the seat, then along the passenger long.

@Montreal914 Got the 1/2 shafts back in so I could roll it out. Here are the pics you requested showing the shifter in relation to the steering wheel. Some pics have the straight edge , which was level vertically, against the wheel and some against the horn pad.

[Montreal914]

Thank you (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
That is very similar to the 914-8 cross section, pretty much in line with the lower part of the steering. Very nice! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)