Oil line on a six, hose and valve installed! Options

[fixer34]

Bought one of the Rothsport oil valves because I was tired of cleaning up oil after taking the car out. Installing it was my weekend project (what did you do to your 914...?) Had the pull the heat exchanger, and the hose connection at the oil cooler came off surprisingly easy. The connection at the U bracket is another story. It hasn't been loosened in at least 30 years and having no luck breaking it loose. Any suggestions?

And before you ask 'how did I change the oil?'; the car has been driven less than 10k miles in the last 30 years, and 'oil changes' were done almost on a continuous basis by refilling since the leakback was so bad anytime I drove it. New lower valve covers & gaskets helped, but it still drained about half the tank when it sat for several months.

[fixer34]

I'm thinking I may have to invest in wrenches, or possibly just crowfoot ends (I was trying to use adjustable wrenches for now-metric of course..). The large nut appears to be 35mm, best I can tell the small one is 31 mm (??). Can anyone confirm or give me the proper sizes?

[Mark Henry]

I'd get the correct wrenches, someday you'll want to take the hose off the tank and it's a PITA.

[fixer34]

I'd get the correct wrenches, someday you'll want to take the hose off the tank and it's a PITA.

I was looking at the one going into the bottom of the tank, appears like it is easier to removes the tank first for that one... Not sure about the return line.
Do you know the stock sizes? Appears like 1-1/4" will work on the smaller hose nut. 31mm seems a bit odd size.

[porschetub]

When I put my oil lines together I purchased a cheap large ring/openend spanner and ground down the width and open end to a tight fit,I used a 10 in adjustable spanner on the nuts,worked good.
You could try heating the nut before undoing you should be good with the right fitting spanners.
That hose has reusable fitting so not sure if you can use it with your non-return valve,good luck.

[fixer34]

When I put my oil lines together I purchased a cheap large ring/openend spanner and ground down the width and open end to a tight fit,I used a 10 in adjustable spanner on the nuts,worked good.
You could try heating the nut before undoing you should be good with the right fitting spanners.
That hose has reusable fitting so not sure if you can use it with your non-return valve,good luck.

Been trying a couple adjustable spanners so far, but I can't get the force on them needed to break it loose (even tryied coaxing one with a hammer, but not really much to leverage against.)
Also tried a little heat on the large nut, but the one side is aluminum housing over the rubber hose, so can't get it too hot.
See Mark Henry's thread on the check valve. You cut out a piece of the hose near the oil cooler connection and insert there. I plan to post pictures when I'm done, but for now I need to get this other connection loosened.

[porschetub]

When I put my oil lines together I purchased a cheap large ring/openend spanner and ground down the width and open end to a tight fit,I used a 10 in adjustable spanner on the nuts,worked good.
You could try heating the nut before undoing you should be good with the right fitting spanners.
That hose has reusable fitting so not sure if you can use it with your non-return valve,good luck.

Been trying a couple adjustable spanners so far, but I can't get the force on them needed to break it loose (even tryied coaxing one with a hammer, but not really much to leverage against.)
Also tried a little heat on the large nut, but the one side is aluminum housing over the rubber hose, so can't get it too hot.
See Mark Henry's thread on the check valve. You cut out a piece of the hose near the oil cooler connection and insert there. I plan to post pictures when I'm done, but for now I need to get this other connection loosened.

You don't need too much heat and besides the hose looks a little old so it won't matter as you should replace it anyway,keep hammers out of it ok,you will only round the hex's on the fitting otherwise.
As mentioned spanners need to fit tight,again good luck.

[GeorgeRud]

They’re 32 and 36mm, and it’s best to get the actual oil line wrenches. The bottom one on the tank really needs to be installed with the tank out of the car.

[gereed75]

Harbor Frieght has a set of large metric open end wrenches sizes something like 20 mm to like 42mm. I use them for the oil lines and other large stuff. They are relatively thin, you can work one fitting against the other.

https://www.harborfreight.com/15-piece-metr...AyABEgIMZ_D_BwE

[fixer34]

Harbor Frieght has a set of large metric open end wrenches sizes something like 20 mm to like 42mm. I use them for the oil lines and other large stuff. They are relatively thin, you can work one fitting against the other.

https://www.harborfreight.com/15-piece-metr...AyABEgIMZ_D_BwE

Thanks, I'll check these out.

[fixer34]

They’re 32 and 36mm, and it’s best to get the actual oil line wrenches. The bottom one on the tank really needs to be installed with the tank out of the car.

Yeah, don't think I'll tackle that one while it's in the fender...
So are there special oil line wrenches, or just ones that are the right size?

[gms]

you can borrow mine if you want, I am located in Batavia IL

[fixer34]

you can borrow mine if you want, I am located in Batavia IL

Glen, appreciate that. May take you up on it. Any thoughts about how to get this loosened? Even with the proper wrenches, probably need to get a bunch of force on it to break the rust loose. Doused it a couple times with Marvel Mystery already.

[9146GUY]

Biggest issue I see is that one fitting is steel and the other is aluminum. They don't come apart very well and usually destroy all of the aluminum threads. Had it happen on two different cars.
Good luck in any case.

[fixer34]

Biggest issue I see is that one fitting is steel and the other is aluminum. They don't come apart very well and usually destroy all of the aluminum threads. Had it happen on two different cars.
Good luck in any case.

I 'think' the hose side nut is steel with an aluminum housing around the hose itself. I put a magnet on it and it sticks. Glenn offered to borrow me a set of wrenches so I'll give those a try. Worse case if I ruin the flex hose side, I can replace that. It's the big nut on the left that is part of the metal elbow. To replace that means pulling oil tank (and who knows what else...).

[rgalla9146]

In your photo both sides are steel, the aluminum is a collar.
Arrange the wrenches as close to photo as possible and squeeze.
If necessary heat the large nut with a torch. 36mm and 32mm is correct.
Stoddard sells a four wrench set 27,30,32,36 mm reasonably priced.

[fixer34]

In your photo both sides are steel, the aluminum is a collar.
Arrange the wrenches as close to photo as possible and squeeze.
If necessary heat the large nut with a torch. 36mm and 32mm is correct.
Stoddard sells a four wrench set 27,30,32,36 mm reasonably priced.

Appreciate the photo, I'll give it a try although a little trickier when still on the car. So nice and clean-mine is the 50yr old original....

[slivel]

In your photo both sides are steel, the aluminum is a collar.
Arrange the wrenches as close to photo as possible and squeeze.
If necessary heat the large nut with a torch. 36mm and 32mm is correct.
Stoddard sells a four wrench set 27,30,32,36 mm reasonably priced.

This.
And at times I've even had to wrap some tape around the handles to protect them and do the squeezing with a pair of channel locks for more force. But it is surprising how much force you can achieve with just your hands when the wrench handles are as shown in the picture.

[fixer34]

you can borrow mine if you want, I am located in Batavia IL

A shout-out to Glenn Stazak. Not only did he let me borrow his set of wrenches, he even dropped them off at my house today. The 32 and 36 (along with a couple 18" pipe cheaters..) did the trick. I got that rusted union freed up and apart. Threads and all survived, I just had to clean and lube them.

Then on to the reason I took it off in the first place. I felt like a diamond cutter sawing into the oil line to install the Rothsport. I'm not sure why I thought it would slip right in to a 50yr old hose, but it doesn't. There is no stretch to that rubber any more.
So looks like I'm going to replace the entire line or at a minimum just the hose.

Is the oil line with fittings available? Or as someone mentioned, just the hose can be found on Stoddard, but how is it attached to the fittings? I don't see a way of getting that aluminum housing off without destroying it.

Is there a shop that does this that I can send the pieces to?
Thanks.

[Mark Henry]

You can buy new or contact pelican parts member BoxsterGT for cohline repairs.