Bought one of the Rothsport oil valves because I was tired of cleaning up oil after taking the car out. Installing it was my weekend project (what did you do to your 914...?) Had the pull the heat exchanger, and the hose connection at the oil cooler came off surprisingly easy. The connection at the U bracket is another story. It hasn't been loosened in at least 30 years and having no luck breaking it loose. Any suggestions?

And before you ask 'how did I change the oil?'; the car has been driven less than 10k miles in the last 30 years, and 'oil changes' were done almost on a continuous basis by refilling since the leakback was so bad anytime I drove it. New lower valve covers & gaskets helped, but it still drained about half the tank when it sat for several months. Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

I'm thinking I may have to invest in wrenches, or possibly just crowfoot ends (I was trying to use adjustable wrenches for now-metric of course..). The large nut appears to be 35mm, best I can tell the small one is 31 mm (??). Can anyone confirm or give me the proper sizes?

I'd get the correct wrenches, someday you'll want to take the hose off the tank and it's a PITA.

I was looking at the one going into the bottom of the tank, appears like it is easier to removes the tank first for that one... Not sure about the return line.
Do you know the stock sizes? Appears like 1-1/4" will work on the smaller hose nut. 31mm seems a bit odd size.

When I put my oil lines together I purchased a cheap large ring/openend spanner and ground down the width and open end to a tight fit,I used a 10 in adjustable spanner on the nuts,worked good.
You could try heating the nut before undoing you should be good with the right fitting spanners.
That hose has reusable fitting so not sure if you can use it with your non-return valve,good luck.

Been trying a couple adjustable spanners so far, but I can't get the force on them needed to break it loose (even tryied coaxing one with a hammer, but not really much to leverage against.)
Also tried a little heat on the large nut, but the one side is aluminum housing over the rubber hose, so can't get it too hot.
See Mark Henry's thread on the check valve. You cut out a piece of the hose near the oil cooler connection and insert there. I plan to post pictures when I'm done, but for now I need to get this other connection loosened.

You don't need too much heat and besides the hose looks a little old so it won't matter as you should replace it anyway,keep hammers out of it ok,you will only round the hex's on the fitting otherwise.
As mentioned spanners need to fit tight,again good luck.

They’re 32 and 36mm, and it’s best to get the actual oil line wrenches. The bottom one on the tank really needs to be installed with the tank out of the car.

Harbor Frieght has a set of large metric open end wrenches sizes something like 20 mm to like 42mm. I use them for the oil lines and other large stuff. They are relatively thin, you can work one fitting against the other.

https://www.harborfreight.com/15-piece-metr...AyABEgIMZ_D_BwE

Thanks, I'll check these out.

Yeah, don't think I'll tackle that one while it's in the fender...
So are there special oil line wrenches, or just ones that are the right size?

you can borrow mine if you want, I am located in Batavia IL

Glen, appreciate that. May take you up on it. Any thoughts about how to get this loosened? Even with the proper wrenches, probably need to get a bunch of force on it to break the rust loose. Doused it a couple times with Marvel Mystery already.

Biggest issue I see is that one fitting is steel and the other is aluminum. They don't come apart very well and usually destroy all of the aluminum threads. Had it happen on two different cars.
Good luck in any case.

I 'think' the hose side nut is steel with an aluminum housing around the hose itself. I put a magnet on it and it sticks. Glenn offered to borrow me a set of wrenches so I'll give those a try. Worse case if I ruin the flex hose side, I can replace that. It's the big nut on the left that is part of the metal elbow. To replace that means pulling oil tank (and who knows what else...).

In your photo both sides are steel, the aluminum is a collar.
Arrange the wrenches as close to photo as possible and squeeze.
If necessary heat the large nut with a torch. 36mm and 32mm is correct.
Stoddard sells a four wrench set 27,30,32,36 mm reasonably priced.

Appreciate the photo, I'll give it a try although a little trickier when still on the car. So nice and clean-mine is the 50yr old original....

This.
And at times I've even had to wrap some tape around the handles to protect them and do the squeezing with a pair of channel locks for more force. But it is surprising how much force you can achieve with just your hands when the wrench handles are as shown in the picture.

A shout-out to Glenn Stazak. Not only did he let me borrow his set of wrenches, he even dropped them off at my house today. The 32 and 36 (along with a couple 18" pipe cheaters..) did the trick. I got that rusted union freed up and apart. Threads and all survived, I just had to clean and lube them.

Then on to the reason I took it off in the first place. I felt like a diamond cutter sawing into the oil line to install the Rothsport. I'm not sure why I thought it would slip right in to a 50yr old hose, but it doesn't. There is no stretch to that rubber any more.
So looks like I'm going to replace the entire line or at a minimum just the hose.

Is the oil line with fittings available? Or as someone mentioned, just the hose can be found on Stoddard, but how is it attached to the fittings? I don't see a way of getting that aluminum housing off without destroying it.

Is there a shop that does this that I can send the pieces to?
Thanks.

You can buy new or contact pelican parts member BoxsterGT for cohline repairs.

The early lines like yours can be rebuilt as long as the fittings aren't too bunged up. The replacement hose is 22mm ID x 30mm OD and can be sourced from BelMetric and probably other places. If your fittings are toast you can buy new lines or fittings and hose and have them crimped. Wasn't a member here selling sets of new lines? MB911?? I have a Cohline crimper and would be happy to help you if needed.

Click to view attachment

Don't discard your original plumbing.
As mentioned they can be rebuilt.
If you chose to rebuild avoid putting a ChannelLock on the aluminum
collars, they are dated and have value with your car. Use a strap wrench or find
someone familiar with these fittings. Some of us on this site have done this.
Crimped style replacement hoses are available.
Removing the tank with the first hose attached is either impossible or a very big
challenge. It's a toss up.
Pictured is a tool to reach into the fender for the first fitting off the tank.

Does the Rothsport valve need to be put into a cut hose or does it have threaded fittings. Mark

The rubber hose is cut.

Ahh, so that's how they come apart. Nope, not something I want to try on my own. The fittings seem to be in pretty good shape. This curved pipe piece is still attached to the tank and I'm going with the 'if it ain't broke...' for that part. I did clean up the rust around the fitting nut and it seems like it will be fine to reconnect the other piece.
The second picture is what the original objective was/is. (why does swamp and alligators come to mind...)
So if you are willing to tackle it, I would be glad to ship the pieces out to you and pay for time/materials/whatever. If you have a couple short pieces of hose, great, otherwise I'll see if I can find the proper size and send that also.
PeteClick to view attachment Click to view attachment

See my original pictures, and the one I just posted with the line off. On a factory car with heat exchangers, there is really only one place it will fit and that is right next to the oil cooler.

Here's one with the heat exchanger on. The clamp attaches to the heat exchanger there is just enough room for the valve between it and the fitting. The rest of the hose has too tight of a bend to insert the valve.Click to view attachment

I'd be glad to help but honestly if you've gotten this far you can easily do it yourself and get back on the road. Removing the fitting from the collar isn't that difficult. Use a rubber strap wrench to hold the collar and just back out the fitting. Clean up the fittings, measure and cut new hose and put it all back together. I would suggest this hose as it has an abrasion resistant outer layer.

Belmetric Hose

If you really don't want to mess with it let me know and we can work something out.

John

That's the hose I was just looking at, I'll get it ordered. Once I have it, I'll give the collars a try and let you know if I could use your services.
The car hasn't been out in at least 6 months, so another week or 2 isn't a big deal. That's why I'm going thru all this so I can drive it more and not deal with big oil leaks.
Thanks again.

Too me the cooler end is cut a little too close, you want to make sure the two barbs don't touch, I'd want 1/2"-3/4" space between the valve and cohline barb tips.

Got it. Ordered a meter of hose today so I have some to 'play with'. I'll cut a short piece and mount the valve, then measure, and cut back if needed, the cooler side.

You have to use a special hose with the reusable fitting,can't remember what its called,hydraulic hose shops will have it.
The alloy outer is course left hand thread ,I used to cut a small chamfer with a sharp blade to help the inner to screw in ,just make sure you put a little oil on both parts and you will be good.

@rgalla9146 Thanks for the tip about the Stoddard wrenches. I just ordered set. Of course I had to toss in a new T-shirt too.

Michael you can get one of these made mine works good with my car,you can get the very last of oil left in the tank and it seems to help vent when draining from the case.Click to view attachment.
Keep enjoying that stunning car .

Make sure to safety wire. You could loose all your oil in minutes if that bolt gets loose.

I like the wrench for the tank connection. Sure beats replacing the tank 3 times getting the angle correct as i recently did.

@fixer34 looks like got it apart?

Making progress. Yes, your wrenches helped immensely. Put 18" of pipe on each one and that provided enough force to break it loose without damage. Cleaned up the surface rust around the nut, threads all look good and even did a test fit back together. Cut the hose to install the valve, but 50yr old rubber doesn't stretch anymore. So ordered a length of reinforced hose, it came today. Valve goes in much easier, but now I need to remove the cohline fittings and out them on the new hose.

No need the bung thread is tapered,and has a wee lick of blue Hylamar ...going nowhere,cheers.

Where do you get the 30mm to 30mm with drain plug?

I believe the 30 x 30 is in there. I just took mine out, drilled and taped it for M6 with a copper washer and safety wire. Works great.

Thanks @greed75, I found the plain ones, and yes I have one, I was hoping someone had one premade to save me a bit of machine time.

Right now I want to take my time and spend it on the actual build, and not on making or getting parts made in a one off situation.

But I like the idea, and will most likely spend some time on the mill, which has its own set of advantages. I was thinking a lot like you proper bolt with copper washer, and pre drilled for safety wire.

I safety wire oil plugs, and CV joints, I have learned my lessons.

I changed the description text as I'm making progress.

Not quite sure where the 30x30 drain plug sub-thread came in, but that's cool. Kind of wondering where it would go anyway, I don't see any place on my line that has that type of connection.

As for progress, got the new line from BelMatic Friday, came in 2 days. Test fitted the check value and all is good. Going to buy a strap wrench tomorrow to see if I can loosen the aluminum housings without doing permanent damage. One of the pictures shows how it threads together (thank you...), but it was also mentioned that the threads are left-hand?? Can someone confirm so I don't go horsing on this in the wrong direction?
Pete

You have the original OEM lines. There was no "coupler" between them. When I purchased my replacement lines 6 years ago they came with that coupler. I added a drain bolt to mine too.

FWIW, none of the fittings I have are left hand threaded.

You have the original OEM lines. There was no "coupler" between them. When I purchased my replacement lines 6 years ago they came with that coupler. I added a drain bolt to mine too.
[/quote]

I did not realize that. I replaced mine also from PMS and the replacements had the coupler. No big deal to drill and tap it.

Gave the originals to Steve. Did not know at the time they were rebuildable.

All threads are conventional, no reverse except the collar which is rotated
onto the hose as the first step. It is easily installed by hand to full depth.
You'll need a piece of plumbing to tighten the nipples against to assemble.
See pics.
The long extension is to stabilize the strap tool.
You may have to use rubber gasket maker to increase grip between the strap tool and
the alloy collar.

I took a little different approach HERE

Sadly, not sure there are any Sears/Craftsman stores around anymore. Found something similar at Menards that I'm going to try.

Search for "Alltrade Strap Wrench". You may be able to find them locally.

Strap Wrench

Even has a bottle opener built in for celebrating your success or calming your frustrations!