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> Any D Jet experts in Seattle?
Robson51
post Sep 5 2020, 12:00 PM
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Looking for some help from an in person human being before going to Webers.

Anyone out in Seattle (actually just north) that wants to make some side money?

TIA
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sixnotfour
post Sep 5 2020, 12:02 PM
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@914werke millcreek area
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Robson51
post Sep 5 2020, 12:36 PM
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QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Sep 5 2020, 11:02 AM) *

@914werke millcreek area


Thanks-I know of him but he's pretty busy.
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Jett
post Sep 5 2020, 02:12 PM
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Redmond European... Monty has the right equipment to quickly root cause
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Bleyseng
post Sep 5 2020, 03:03 PM
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What's wrong with it? I am on Beacon Hill. Rich D has my Djet tester but let's hear the issues
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rjames
post Sep 5 2020, 03:17 PM
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I just spent the last 2 summers get my DJet back in running order and may be able to help.

That said, give as many details as you can and maybe with everyone's help here it can be a remote fix. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

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Robson51
post Sep 5 2020, 04:28 PM
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QUOTE(rjames @ Sep 5 2020, 02:17 PM) *

I just spent the last 2 summers get my DJet back in running order and may be able to help.

That said, give as many details as you can and maybe with everyone's help here it can be a remote fix. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)



OK-here's the list.

Injectors rebuilt by Witchhunter, but one always left a plug wet, so it has recently been changed to a NOS one

AAV tests good, as does the MPC. New TPS set with an ohm meter. New gaskets and sleeves on the intake manifold, new vacuum hoses.

Fuel pump tested at 28 pounds. Compression over 125 on all cylinders. Valves set.

New Pertronix, cap, rotor and wires. Timing set properly at full advance. Trigger points looked really good and were checked that they were contacting. New connectors on injector wiring harness.

ECU is set 11 clicks from full stop left.

Car is hard to start, and seems to flood. Just put a clamp on the cold start injector and it seems to start easier. Need to get it out on the road to clear it out.

My latest thought is the cold start injector is on all the time or bad or leaking. Taking it out of the system seemed to help but the car is so loaded up with fuel it will take a while to get it to run clean.

Any other ideas? I'm really to the point where I think it needs fresh eyes on it.

Thanks-
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Bleyseng
post Sep 5 2020, 05:26 PM
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First- Is the Cylinder Temp sensor good? Test it per PB Anders site. So carefully remove it without losing the little washer. What the number? Ending in 003- 012 or 017? What ECU do you have?

Test the CHT cold (ohms resistance) and then in boiling water. That sensor controls the AFR depending on the engine temperature and usually if its hard to start and rich thats the problem. Or it mis matches with the ECU casing problems.

MPS is good. How did you test it? With a vacuum pump pulling 15hg and no leakdown after 5 minutes??
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914werke
post Sep 5 2020, 05:56 PM
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Sorry, been convalescing. But try & help anyway I can.
As Geoff mentioned I have a d-jet tester at my disposal
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Robson51
post Sep 5 2020, 05:57 PM
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QUOTE(Bleyseng @ Sep 5 2020, 04:26 PM) *

First- Is the Cylinder Temp sensor good? Test it per PB Anders site. So carefully remove it without losing the little washer. What the number? Ending in 003- 012 or 017? What ECU do you have?

Test the CHT cold (ohms resistance) and then in boiling water. That sensor controls the AFR depending on the engine temperature and usually if its hard to start and rich thats the problem. Or it mis matches with the ECU casing problems.

MPS is good. How did you test it? With a vacuum pump pulling 15hg and no leakdown after 5 minutes??


CHT is new, but will check the number. I've only seen one listed for sale for '74 2.0

Will check the number on the ECU.

Yes, MPS passed a leakdown test.
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Bleyseng
post Sep 5 2020, 06:46 PM
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MPS number is 043? ECU number is ending in 044?
So one plug is wet so I would test it by pulling it and putting in a glass see thru bottle. Disconnect the coil wires so there is no spark and with a assistant or remote start button look at the spray pattern and if it leaks. Heck check them all then you know they are good. Disconnect the cold start valve and bypass the fuel hose to it to get it out of the fuel system as here its really not needed.
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Bleyseng
post Sep 5 2020, 07:12 PM
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"ECU is 11 clicks from full stop left"
Do you mean it is turned CW or CCW? There should be a small notch at the idle mix knob so I would set it there. That is the Factory setting I am not sure how you have it set.
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Robson51
post Sep 5 2020, 07:32 PM
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QUOTE(Bleyseng @ Sep 5 2020, 05:46 PM) *

MPS number is 043? ECU number is ending in 044?
So one plug is wet so I would test it by pulling it and putting in a glass see thru bottle. Disconnect the coil wires so there is no spark and with a assistant or remote start button look at the spray pattern and if it leaks. Heck check them all then you know they are good. Disconnect the cold start valve and bypass the fuel hose to it to get it out of the fuel system as here its really not needed.


Already replaced the wet plug one with a new injector but will gather the part numbers and get back to you. Is there a compatibility chart somewhere?

Will plug cold start

Thanks!
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Robson51
post Sep 6 2020, 09:07 AM
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QUOTE(Bleyseng @ Sep 5 2020, 06:12 PM) *

"ECU is 11 clicks from full stop left"
Do you mean it is turned CW or CCW? There should be a small notch at the idle mix knob so I would set it there. That is the Factory setting I am not sure how you have it set.


I heard from Continental Motors to turn it all the way CCW then back to the right CW 11 clicks. It’s back to the factory setting.
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Bleyseng
post Sep 6 2020, 04:53 PM
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QUOTE(Robson51 @ Sep 6 2020, 08:07 AM) *

QUOTE(Bleyseng @ Sep 5 2020, 06:12 PM) *

"ECU is 11 clicks from full stop left"
Do you mean it is turned CW or CCW? There should be a small notch at the idle mix knob so I would set it there. That is the Factory setting I am not sure how you have it set.


I heard from Continental Motors to turn it all the way CCW then back to the right CW 11 clicks. It’s back to the factory setting.


No, there is a tiny notch in the lip and that is the Factory setting. But the way to set the idle mix is to run the car until its hot say, 20 minutes of driving. Plug the AAR hoses to make sure no leaks and then adjust the idle screw on the ECU slowly till it runs the best. Wait 30 secs at each click for the engine to adjust to the new mixture setting. 11 clicks CW sounds really rich to me. I'll take a pic of the notch.
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mightyohm
post Sep 6 2020, 06:26 PM
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Cold start should not be operating this time of year. I don't think my car ever had a working CSV when it ran d-jet and I never noticed.

Once the car is warmed up does it run ok, or does it bog down and blow smoke?
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rjames
post Sep 7 2020, 11:04 AM
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Did the car ever run well with the parts it has installed? If yes, when did the issue started happening?

If running rich check:
MPS leaking or not set correctly for your engine (is it original to your car? Is the seal still in place?)
ECU knob in wrong spot (put it in the middle and go from there)
CHT sensor
Check injection harness grounds (they are grounded to the chassis at the back of the engine)
If you unplug the air temp sensor (on the plenum on the driver’s side next to the AAR valve) does it get better?

Ruling out your injectors since they were just serviced.

All the DJet info you could want:
https://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/DJetParts.htm#parts
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Robson51
post Sep 7 2020, 12:18 PM
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QUOTE(Bleyseng @ Sep 5 2020, 05:46 PM) *

MPS number is 043? ECU number is ending in 044?
So one plug is wet so I would test it by pulling it and putting in a glass see thru bottle. Disconnect the coil wires so there is no spark and with a assistant or remote start button look at the spray pattern and if it leaks. Heck check them all then you know they are good. Disconnect the cold start valve and bypass the fuel hose to it to get it out of the fuel system as here its really not needed.


Plugged the cold start and still super rich. Runs with black smoke and won’t idle.

MPS ends in 043. ECU ends in 044. CHT is a new one from 914Rubber says conforms to 0 280 130 012 spec.

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Robson51
post Sep 7 2020, 01:26 PM
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QUOTE(rjames @ Sep 7 2020, 10:04 AM) *

Did the car ever run well with the parts it has installed? If yes, when did the issue started happening?

If running rich check:
MPS leaking or not set correctly for your engine (is it original to your car? Is the seal still in place?)
ECU knob in wrong spot (put it in the middle and go from there)
CHT sensor
Check injection harness grounds (they are grounded to the chassis at the back of the engine)
If you unplug the air temp sensor (on the plenum on the driver’s side next to the AAR valve) does it get better?

Ruling out your injectors since they were just serviced.

All the DJet info you could want:
https://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/DJetParts.htm#parts



Checked MPS and not leaking. It's a replacement from original as a spare was included with the car in a box of old parts.

ECU knob in the middle
CHT sensor new from 914Rubber
Harness grounds spotless.

Have not unplugged the air temp sensor.

The weird thing is that it was running and driving, not perfectly but OK. Drove it to a soccer game, wouldn't start and turned out to be a fuel pump relay. Changed out the relay, now really rich and not running well enough to drive.
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Robson51
post Sep 7 2020, 01:27 PM
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QUOTE(mightyohm @ Sep 6 2020, 05:26 PM) *

Cold start should not be operating this time of year. I don't think my car ever had a working CSV when it ran d-jet and I never noticed.

Once the car is warmed up does it run ok, or does it bog down and blow smoke?


Can't keep it running long enough to warm up, bogs down and blows black smoke.
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