3.0 F/S on the bird Canada board, No affiliation Options

[Mark Henry]

No affiliation
$15K Canadian works out to about $11,200 USD

Ouch as when I was on the hunt 10 years ago that was a $4K Canadian engine, but it is what it is.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/canada/1073...-3-0l-sale.html

[mepstein]

I think it's a pretty good price for an engine that's been looked after and updated. The really expensive way to buy an engine is a 2.7 that needs a rebuild. You will quickly be into it for the same $11,500, or more, when you add up purchase price, machining the case, rebuilding heads, new parts needed like heads studs, timing chains, gaskets, rings and bearings (main, rod, cam, etc.). You find out that barrels are out of spec, $4K more for new Mahle p&c's. Then you still need to buy or rebuild induction, alternator, distributor, etc. Then you need to put it together and hope it runs.

[nditiz1]

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The only better deal I have seen recently on engines was the 3.2 that sold earlier this week. It was complete and had a recent top end rebuild with only 30 supposed hours. I think it was priced at 12.5 on the bird as a complete. Can't beat healthy numbers. The 3.0 I got ~2yrs ago ( from mepstein) is still running strong and I paid 10.5 for it.

[mepstein]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

The only better deal I have seen recently on engines was the 3.2 that sold earlier this week. It was complete and had a recent top end rebuild with only 30 supposed hours. I think it was priced at 12.5 on the bird as a complete. Can't beat healthy numbers. The 3.0 I got ~2yrs ago ( from mepstein) is still running strong and I paid 10.5 for it.

A good running engine, like a good running car, is still the best way to buy.

[Jett]

I would be all over this, but just bought a 69 911S motor for an upcoming conversion.

Great deal!

[Superhawk996]

A good running engine, like a good running car, is still the best way to buy.

Sure - take the easy way out. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

[mepstein]

A good running engine, like a good running car, is still the best way to buy.

Sure - take the easy way out. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

Nope, never do. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;#entry2854027

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Superhawk996]

A good running engine, like a good running car, is still the best way to buy.

Sure - take the easy way out. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

Nope, never do. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;#entry2854027

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I dunno. Aluminum case is a lot easier than mag. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

[mepstein]

A good running engine, like a good running car, is still the best way to buy.

Sure - take the easy way out. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

Nope, never do. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;#entry2854027

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I dunno. Aluminum case is a lot easier than mag. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

I'm not a fan of mag. wheels, engine cases, oil consoles, etc. No matter what you do, it doesn't improve with time. The only mag piece that doesn't seem to have major issues are transmission cases, though the one on my car is pretty deeply pitted.

Steve/Shoguneagle was nice enough to sell me his running 3.2 so I do take my own advice - sometimes. I want to learn how to build engines and the shop owner has been getting instruction from Peter Dawe. I want to learn how to do it right and he's one of the best.

[Superhawk996]

A good running engine, like a good running car, is still the best way to buy.

Sure - take the easy way out. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

Nope, never do. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;#entry2854027

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I dunno. Aluminum case is a lot easier than mag. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

I'm not a fan of mag. wheels, engine cases, oil consoles, etc. No matter what you do, it doesn't improve with time. The only mag piece that doesn't seem to have major issues are transmission cases, though the one on my car is pretty deeply pitted.

Steve/Shoguneagle was nice enough to sell me his running 3.2 so I do take my own advice - sometimes. I want to learn how to build engines and the shop owner has been getting instruction from Peter Dawe. I want to learn how to do it right and he's one of the best.

Just giving you a hard time. You are right Magnesium is continiously degrading, its a pretty unstable metal.

I thought long and hard about my engine choice. 3.0L is a very nice way to go since it avoids Mag. I'm not a fan of the 2.7L - that was esentially Porsche learning the limits of magnesium. Therefore I back up to the 2.4L 7R case as my "ideal" mostly for weight reasons and becuase I'm not intereseted in chasing big HP numbers. I also wanted somthing the same vintage as my chassis. Again the 73' 2.4L fits the bill perfectly.

I say rock on (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) . Like you this will be my first 911 engine build. All I can say at this point is what a Rube Goldberg contraption. So many parts and so many fasteners. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) but boy, the noises a flat six makes (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[mepstein]

A good running engine, like a good running car, is still the best way to buy.

Sure - take the easy way out. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

Nope, never do. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;#entry2854027

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I dunno. Aluminum case is a lot easier than mag. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

I'm not a fan of mag. wheels, engine cases, oil consoles, etc. No matter what you do, it doesn't improve with time. The only mag piece that doesn't seem to have major issues are transmission cases, though the one on my car is pretty deeply pitted.

Steve/Shoguneagle was nice enough to sell me his running 3.2 so I do take my own advice - sometimes. I want to learn how to build engines and the shop owner has been getting instruction from Peter Dawe. I want to learn how to do it right and he's one of the best.

Just giving you a hard time. You are right Magnesium is continiously degrading, its a pretty unstable metal.

I thought long and hard about my engine choice. 3.0L is a very nice way to go since it avoids Mag. I'm not a fan of the 2.7L - that was esentially Porsche learning the limits of magnesium. Therefore I back up to the 2.4L 7R case as my "ideal" mostly for weight reasons and becuase I'm not intereseted in chasing big HP numbers. I also wanted somthing the same vintage as my chassis. Again the 73' 2.4L fits the bill perfectly.

I say rock on (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) . Like you this will be my first 911 engine build. All I can say at this point is what a Rube Goldberg contraption. So many parts and so many fasteners. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) but boy, the noises a flat six makes (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I think the 2.4 is a great engine for a 914. You can often get away without a front cooler and it’s easier on the trans than the big engines. Isn’t it what’s in the 916?

[JmuRiz]

Yes most were 2.4S engines, but the later ones had the 2.7RS in there.

I can tell you the 2.7 7R case is spendy to rebuild...mine's still on-going. Lucky for me I got mine when the core price was $2k for everything (longblock, induction, wiring etc.) It was previously rebuilt, but not well...probably split but not machined correctly. It nothing else it left me with some bits to put in the case of shame display (a valve guide seized into the valve, some roached center crankshaft bearings etc.)

If I was new to it I'd try to find a 930 case, and I have a friend that has a twin plug fixture for 3.0 (...so I was out of luck on my 2.7 heads, oh well)

I' hoping that garage keeping and application of Gibbs on my trans case and engine case will help over time...I guess we'll see. My trans was redone too, so I have the billet intermediate and side plate to keep it from flexing as much.

I agree with Mark, it's crazy to see the prices for core engines these days...

[Mark Henry]

My 3.0 started off like the core Mark just bought. Ballpark $12K in parts ($2K for 3.0 longblock core) to do my engine and conversion almost 10 years ago. But even then it was a whole bunch of wheeling and dealing, I actually bought 3 cores, sold most of the mag case bits and came out ahead, but I still have a complete 2.7 longblock core that I may someday build.

That doesn't count the hundreds of hours I have into it.
My engine I wouldn't sell it for less than $30K

[mepstein]

Our shop owner bought a machine shop that’s been doing engines for 30 years. So many of the parts will end up there for rehab.

[forrestkhaag]

So with all of that sage advice, is their a collective opinion on the approximate retail value on a recent complete top to bottom rebuild on a 3.0 SC sporting webers, linkage, flywheel, 901 ring gear, Kennedy two stage, Carrera oil feds, etc.etc / a complete strong running engine??

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[mepstein]

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911...engine-f-s.html

SOLD ----
For Sale
3.0L ROW Engine :
This engine is a completely rebuilt ROW 1978 Porsche 911 SC 3.0 Liter Engine.
This Euro engine fuel system is different to the US version. The intake box flows more air and fuel with the bigger 40mm intake runners. The ports in the heads are also the larger 40mm ones.
Completely rebuilt with a 12 month or 12,000 mile limited warranty.
Build as follows: Serial # 6383117 Type# 930/03 180 hp/189 tq ROW (rest of world)
New bearings, mains, rods, intermediate and #8 bearing, P&Cs, head studs, cam chains, ramps & rails, rod bolts & nuts, valve springs and gaskets & seals, SST plug wires, distributor cap/rotor, plugs.
We installed 9.5cr P&C's replacing the ROW 8.5cr ones for some added pep! Closer to 200 HP.
It has turbo valve covers. "upper & lower" and Carrera chain tensioners.
Case was completely checked. Complete valve job with new guides & springs.
The engines CIS injection system has new injectors, rebuilt WUR, rebuilt fuel distributor and upgraded steel injection lines.
We added a new lightweight RSR flywheel with SACHS Sport aluminum pressure plate and clutch disk for quicker revs!
It is fitted with new Stainless steel SSI heat exchangers and a sport muffler.
It has all freshly painted engine tins and fan shroud.
This engine is ready to install in your 911SC or for a 2.7 upgrade. It would be really be great for a 914-6 conversion!
We have been building quality stock, performance and racing Porsche engines for over 30 years here at the shop.
This engine is being sold outright! NO CORE required!
Price $26,000 includes shipping continental USA.

[Mark Henry]

I guess my $30K figure on my engine is a bit low...I don't want to add up the invoices.
A few weeks ago the wife and I were bantering, she said "How much have you spent on that car?, (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif) I must have looked like a deer in the headlights because she quickly said "Wait...I don't want to know.
Whew!

This is just the engine, it doesn't count the tranny, 5-bolt conversion, suspension, wheels, brakes, etc. etc.

Case, 1979, 3.0, serial # *6399XXX, 930/13, 930.101.104.4R,
Supertec head studs.
Crank, stock, std/std, polished and magnafluxed, converted to CW distributor drive gear.
Rods, stock, rebuilt big and small end, new bushings, ARP bolts and nuts.
Flywheel stock, with custom 914-901 adapter ring, CSP 228mm bus HD pressure plate.
Full engine balance.
Main bearings, new glyco, DFL (Dry Film Lube) coated.
#8 Main bearing, original Porsche, DFL coated.
Rod bearings, new glyco, DFL coated.
Intermediate shaft bearings, new Porsche, DFL coated.
Gasket set, new nose and rear main seal, Supertec sealant kit.
Pump, stock blueprinted housing DFL coated,

Pistons, Mahle, new, 3.0 custom RSR, DFL coated skirts, ceramic coated tops, Goetze rings.
Cylinders, stock 3.0 nickasil, replated Milenium/LN engineering, stock gaskets, .025mm base gasket.
Heads, 3.0 big port, minor port work, twin plug.
Valves, stock size, exhaust new TRW sodium, intake new AE.
Valve springs, Eibach race, retainers early stock, keepers stock modified.
Ceramic chambers and exhaust ports.
Cams, WEB-CAM, 120/104, set at 5.2mm/.10 lash, 964 cores modified to 901 spec.
Towers, spray bars R&R, tapped and cleaned, rockers resurfaced and rebushed, RSR rocker shaft seals.
Chains, new IWIS, new cam sprockets, keys and pins.
Tensioners, hydraulic, no fail modification.
906 style cylinder cooling deflectors, stainless steel.
Cooler, stock, 3.0, modified for 914.

Oil tank, DWD

Carburetors, Weber 40mm IDA, rebuilt, new carb kits, 34mm venturis, 155 main jets, F3 emulsion tubes, 180 air correction, 55 idle, Ported stock manifolds, custom phenolic spacers.
K&N filters and rain hats, Weber linkage.

Distributor, PMS/Jarvis, CW, MSD internals.
Plug wires custom labeled twin plug, Patrick Motorsports.
Ignition, MSD 6AL, twin MSD high vibration coils, max 7000 RPM.
Spark plugs, NGK BPR5ES (BPR6ES also available for tuning).

Headers, 914, 1-1/2” MSDS, ceramic coated.
Muffler/collector, stock banana.
14point7 wideband O2 meter, custom wire harness X 2 meters.

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[mepstein]

Mark - It would be interesting to see what it looks like on a dyno.

When I worked at the shop, we had a customer who spent $22k to have his 2.7 rebuilt by another shop. It didn’t run right because they never rebuilt the WUR or FD. Once that was done, the engine ran well. It was just a stock rebuild.

[Mark Henry]

Maybe one day I'll dyno it but for right now I'll just say it's wicked fast. I haven't hit the 7k rpm rev limiter yet but I've had it up there. Going up hills you really notice yourself sinking into the seat, like a freaking rocket ship. I know some don't like carbs but it runs awesome, except for the 3 pumps cold start and some feathering at hot start you would think it's FI. Absolutely no bad habits, pulls good from 3K and is a monster at 5K-7k RPM. Seat of the pants more power (to weight) than a 3.8 996 I recently built.
Way more power than my 2600cc type 4 in my '67 bug, the motor I was originally going to put in my 914.

Guesstimate about 225-250hp, if I put 46mm Weber's on it and 1-3/4" headers I might get 260-280 HP out of it. I personally believe it would be the lower numbers that are true, other builders would likely claim it's the higher numbers.