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jim_hoyland |
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#1
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Get that VIN ? ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 9,805 Joined: 1-May 03 From: Sunset Beach, CA Member No.: 643 Region Association: Southern California ![]() ![]() |
The rubber top fits nicely; but it appears there is an extra stud in the center with no hole to go through. What am I missing here ? Should the stud be capped ?
@Mikey914 Attached thumbnail(s) ![]() Attached image(s) ![]() |
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bdstone914 |
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#2
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bdstone914 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 5,015 Joined: 8-November 03 From: Riverside CA Member No.: 1,319 ![]() |
The rubber top fits nicely; but it appears there is an extra stud in the center with no hole to go through. What am I missing here ? Should the stud be capped ? @Mikey914 There is a small bracket on 74 and earlier cars to support the rubber top in the center. Attached thumbnail(s) ![]() |
jim_hoyland |
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#3
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Get that VIN ? ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 9,805 Joined: 1-May 03 From: Sunset Beach, CA Member No.: 643 Region Association: Southern California ![]() ![]() |
The rubber top fits nicely; but it appears there is an extra stud in the center with no hole to go through. What am I missing here ? Should the stud be capped ? @Mikey914 There is a small bracket on 74 and earlier cars to support the rubber top in the center. I thought so. What do you suggest I do ? |
914werke |
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#4
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"I got blisters on me fingers" ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 11,292 Joined: 22-March 03 From: USofA Member No.: 453 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() ![]() |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) If this is a back date effort you wont have the little support tab on your chassis.
You can fab one & weld or screw it in place or let it (the top) float. |
jim_hoyland |
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#5
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Get that VIN ? ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 9,805 Joined: 1-May 03 From: Sunset Beach, CA Member No.: 643 Region Association: Southern California ![]() ![]() |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) If this is a back date effort you wont have the little support tab on your chassis. You can fab one & weld or screw it in place or let it (the top) float. Yes it’s a backdate. It was mentioned earlier that the top has a contious internal metal support, so a backdated bumper won’t need a support. I’ll slide aplastic thread protector on it. While test fitting, it doesn’t show much |
914werke |
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#6
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"I got blisters on me fingers" ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 11,292 Joined: 22-March 03 From: USofA Member No.: 453 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() ![]() |
Yes it’s a backdate. It was mentioned earlier that the top has a contious internal metal support, so a backdated bumper won’t need a support. I’ll slide aplastic thread protector on it. While test fitting, it doesn’t show much Well ..they all had/have a continuous internal metal support, what changed IIRC was the material (from mild steel to stainless). The reason for the Tab/support was that the void in the bumper center that provided for the plate mount & lights, allowed for the top section to deflect if for instance someone leaned on it while storing items in the trunk |
Jett |
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#7
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,684 Joined: 27-July 14 From: Seattle Member No.: 17,686 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() ![]() |
Yes it’s a backdate. It was mentioned earlier that the top has a contious internal metal support, so a backdated bumper won’t need a support. I’ll slide aplastic thread protector on it. While test fitting, it doesn’t show much Well ..they all had/have a continuous internal metal support, what changed IIRC was the material (from mild steel to stainless). The reason for the Tab/support was that the void in the bumper center that provided for the plate mount & lights, allowed for the top section to deflect if for instance someone leaned on it while storing items in the trunk +1 it is so thin there and helps with alignment. Epoxy on a mount... |
JeffBowlsby |
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#8
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914 Wiring Harnesses & Beekeeper ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 8,964 Joined: 7-January 03 From: San Ramon CA Member No.: 104 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
The license plate lights mounting screws penetrate that steel reinf in the bumper top. One of the two screws for each light is a ground screw. That tab on the 70-74 chassis provides grounding for the lights. If the lights are not hooked up correctly you’ll blow fuses due to a direct short of the lights power circuit to ground.
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jim_hoyland |
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#9
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Get that VIN ? ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 9,805 Joined: 1-May 03 From: Sunset Beach, CA Member No.: 643 Region Association: Southern California ![]() ![]() |
The license plate lights mounting screws penetrate that steel reinf in the bumper top. One of the two screws for each light is a ground screw. That tab on the 70-74 chassis provides grounding for the lights. If the lights are not hooked up correctly you’ll blow fuses due to a direct short of the lights power circuit to ground. Aha ! My new bumper top has one hole near the end of each license plate nook; however, the new Uro license plate lights mounting holes don't line up with that hole. |
PanelBilly |
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#10
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 5,904 Joined: 23-July 06 From: Kent, Wa Member No.: 6,488 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() ![]() |
My bolt is a little long. I was going to cut it off but thought I might want to attach something there. Haven’t figured out what yet. It only been about ten years.
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Chris H. |
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#11
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,059 Joined: 2-January 03 From: Chicago 'burbs Member No.: 73 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() ![]() |
You're finally doing it eh Jim? It's gonna look great!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)
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