Rust repair before paint, The quest for solid metal in the driver side Long - 73 narrow body/4, now 6 conversion rebuild thread Options

[Ron914]

Coming along nicely Eric . I look forward to a spirted ride across Angeles Crest Hwy one day .

[Montreal914]

After looking at everything, I believe I am close to paint the inside of the inner longituginal beam. It is a good feeling!




And a final look up the back.




Prior to do so, the entire surface was treated with Ospho and let dry. This makes the bare steel gray with this white dusty texture. It feels like a good protection.

I read that some epoxy primer have issues adhering to an Ospho treated surface. I followed the instructions on the bottle. After drying. I thoroughly wipe the surface with mineral spirits 2-3 times and let dry. Then, I applied Rustoleum primer sealer which is oil based, again correlating with both the Ospho and mineral spririts instructions. Is this the best option? I don't know, but surely, this car's second life will be alot milder than its first. I am also thinking about spraying cavity wax in there, but only after the car will be painted.

Now painted. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)






With the can out, I prepped the heater tube spring clamp, then shot them with the primer sealer.




Next, these were riveted using stainless steel rivets.






Finally the heater tube was reinstalled. We make all of these efforts to restore our little cars and have once in a while the satisfaction of installing simple parts. The process takes a minute but is very rewarding! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

There you go!




Now let move on to the preparation of the inner rocker. I am actually working on a full length donor piece that includes the rear outer suspension console and those "U" shaped braces that connect the outer console to the inner one. Once this whole piece is ready to go in, it will be another fun milestone.

Now, although in good condition, the part needed some attention in the usual area. There was some deep pitting on the lower part of the jack pyramid, so, cut , inspect, cut more, fabricate, weld, grind, rinse repeat... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

Part already trimmed and about 95% fitting on the car.




Rusted bottom area of the jack pyramid.




Pyramid partially removed to expose the problematic area.




This portion needs to be replaced. The inner rocker is double lareyed in this area.




Now the area has been cleaned up and is ready for its patch.



All welded up.




Continuation on the next post... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Montreal914]

When lookin at double layered area of the structure, I am always concern when seeing bulges like these in between spotwelds. Sometimes these are due to rust in between that expands and pushed outward the second layer. To make sure, I drilled a small window in the outer layer to discover only very nice metal. Relief, we are good to go.






Next step, close the bottom of the pyramid. While in there I re-sqaured the jack tube that was suffering from the classic stretched upper face.






Now to fit the part onto the car. I will spare you the well over 20 times of install, remove, trim, try again, and show you the 98% finish fit. There is hope!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)






Using my laser I checked the Z (height) location of the bottom of the outer suspension console. I did also compare many reference measurements with the passenger side and things are now lining up whithin 1/16". I am hoping to improve this upon final installation, but this is pretty good at this point.