Rust repair before paint, The quest for solid metal in the driver side Long - 73 narrow body/4 rebuild thread Options

[Montreal914]

Time to move on to the engine lid, which also needs help... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

Typical 914 engine lid bracket issues, both have been repaired, but the passenger side one is broken again. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)




I got a pair of original brackets at one of Bruce Stone's swap meet a while back knowing I was going to need them.

These typically fail in two ways:
1- at the bend (like mine)
2- detach from or rip the firewall.

Thinking of ways how to prevent this to happen again, at least problem #1, I did this little clearance study:








Clearly, there is room on that "L" bracket to add a gusset on each side making it a lot stronger.

So here we go! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)




Once done:



After a little trimming and adjustment, here is the updated clearance study: (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)








I am pretty sure this is the end of the bracket cracking problem! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sunglasses.gif)


Here the rebuilt bracket is welded to the firewall on the sides catching more of that embossing. Hopefully, this will also prevent problem #2 explained earlier. That being said, all of these issues can probably be avoided by holding the engine lid as it is being released. An easy good habit that many of us have very early on adhered to for obvious reasons. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)




Not shown, but the engine lid was properly aligned to the body in order to set the "L" bracket in the right location on the firewall.

[Montreal914]

Wow it has been many months since I have updated this thread. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) The good news it that I did make progress! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Planning ahead, I am doing modifications to the oil network. Although this is a 4 cylinder car, I intend to stroke my current 2056 to a 2258 (2270) in the future. So I already have made changes on the engine side as described in this halted (for this body work) Microsquirt thread:

Post #46 here: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...42361&st=40

I made an aluminum panel for the remote oil filter and thermostat. I will be using a rabbit/jetta diesel filter which is rather large (almost 1 quart).



I welded 4 cylindrical tapped standoffs (911 part) to the lower right portion of the firewall to mount the assembly. The filter is high enough to be fully protected. The oil lines from and to the engine will connect in the middle area of the assembly, while the lines to the front cooler connect to the right side of the thermostat. This also clears the heating flexible tube between the heater valve and body heater duct.



More to come... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif)

[Montreal914]

Between the filter/thermostat assembly and the front cooler, I plan on routing the lines along the outside of the passenger long. About 10 years ago, I fitted the car with a Brad Mayer reinforcement kit which actually butts in on the back side of the tapered box in the front of the long. Since it sits away from the outer long of about 3/8", it is obstructing some of the box' backside preventing me from drilling holes large enough to run the lines through the box à la Elephant racing hard lines. Therefore I had to create a channel in the box to make room for the lines.

Here is the box with the reinforcement kit butting on its back side:



Now the box has been opened up with the removal of the lower front corner that was rusted:


Patching the corner:


And now putting back the lower front part of the box leaving a trench for the lines to go through:


Finally, after shaping the trench from a flat sheet, I closed up the box to keep some structure integrity. Shown here with my line mockup:


Next, the jack point pyramid had to be trimmed for the same purpose. This pyramid is part of Brad Mayer's kit and is made of thick steel:


At this point the path is clear to run the oil lines along the passenger side longitudinal beam. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Montreal914]

Although I could have elected to use steel braded lines or rubber hoses, I really like the idea of having rigid oil lines. Being on a tight budget, I studies my options and decided to use aluminum 5052-0, 3/4" x 0.049" tube from Aircraft Spruce. These come in 6 foot length and cost $39 ea. They also sell the -12 AN flared tube sleeve and nuts for them at very reasonable price (~4$ ea). Total material cost ~$105! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sunglasses.gif)

Since I am not in business of bending tube, I got a cheap 3/4" tube bender on ebay for $38 and was ready to get crafty. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) After very carefully studying the path I wanted to take, I started bending, knowing there wasn't any room for error since I was going to need the entire 6 feet to go from the back to the front.

First bend:


Without being perfect, I was actually pleased with the result that this $38 toll was giving:


After a few hours of trial fit and bending, I was making encouraging progress. The thickness of the Brad Mayer panels allowed me to drill and tap M6 holes to mount the Abel style SS clamps (Amazon $11):


Details of the back end:


Then I fabricated a rear support that will use one of the two engine mount bracket bolt:


The last few steps were to complete the ends. This mean trimming the length on the back end and bending the front end upwards in the fender well. Last, obviously install the AN fittings and flare the end of the lines. For this I was fortunate enough to borrow a 37degree flaring tool from a friend.

Result once flared:




And the final pre-installation with fitting and mounts. I plan on fabricating a front support to hold the lines at the junction with the flexible lines. The front mount should serve two purpose: supporting the end of the rigid lines and being an anchor point for a partial fender liner to protect the lines from flying road debris.


Inner fender area:


And finally, the back end with the mockup connection to the filter/thermostat assembly:


And there you have it! My $115 rigid oil lines! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sunglasses.gif)

[Montreal914]

Now, that the rigid part has been completed, it is time to look into how we will get to the front oil cooler. Connecting to the rigid lines, I am using -10AN Parker push-lock hose.

After locating the right spot to make the openings in the body, I used a knock-out tool I got for $35 on Craigslist. This makes this task a breeze. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) This a picture of the upper left trunk area near the lid hinge (removed) and windshield washer bottle area.


And now with the grommets:


The next openings are through the lower part of the partition wall between the trunk and the fuel tank area. This being a little tighter area, I had to get the lines closer and overlap the holes. We are looking at the rear bottom left area of the front trunk. Next to the paired holes is the air pressure line from the spare to the washer bottle.


And finally, with trimmed grommets and mock up hoses (out of focus picture but you get the idea... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) :


So the final result looks like this in the fender well:


And in the trunk area:


Upcoming next, the front oil cooler! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[bkrantz]

Nice work--looks great!

[Montreal914]

I am using a Mercedes Diesel oil cooler I got from Bruce Stone a few years ago. There are at least 2 versions of their coolers that are normally mounted vertically to the driver side of the main radiator.

The one I will be using is the smaller one. The main reason is that I wanted it to fit under the arched structural shelf in the front of the car. The cooler came with the mating fittings which makes it convenient.

Using my trusted cheapo hack saw, file and vise, I fabricated a couple of brackets out of a 2"x2"x1/8" aluminum square tube.
The result is this:


The brackets actually use the stock MBZ cooler mounting points. So the cooler gets attached to the front shelf, suspended from it. The only modifications made to the car at this point are four 1/4" holes in the shelf and the removal of the front rubber plugs. Noting that will weaken the front of the car.

Using a torch, I gently heated up the driver side cooler fitting to change its angle to get a smooth path for the blue hose (mock up with black hose here).

Also, since the car will be converted to 5 lugs, I am using a 4 1/2" wide Fake Fuch wheel with a small donut spare. The smaller diameter allows me to push the spare against the back end of the trunk while using the stock spare anchoring point but in one of the lug hole instead of the center of the wheel. This creates enough room for the air to exit from the back side of the cooler. Venting will be achieved through the round access ports in the back of the trunk floor. Finally, a new lower trunk floor will close tight and create the plenum for the air flow.

Result: Larger trunk space, inflated spare tire, and obviously an oil cooler. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[pete-stevers]

Inspiring thread! that is a job well done! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Montreal914]

Inspiring thread! that is a job well done! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Thank you!
I get my inspiration from this forum! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)
In a way, sharing the progress is motivating.
Anyone who has been down this road knows that motivation can have its ups and down. I try to apply the wisdom a good friend once told me: "A little every day!", but it is not easy... Progress and knowing others here are in the same boat is definitely encouraging! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Cairo94507]

Very nicely done. That should keep your engine nice and cool. I really like the hard lines you made - great work. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Montreal914]

Here I will need the input from the experienced people! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

My car has been hit in the rear driver side quarter at some point and this translated into an irregular curvature. Recently, I removed the bondo that was causing most of the hump, but as you can see in the pictures below, this was a half way straightening job of the fender.











I am pretty sure this fender can be saved by the right qualified person (which is not me) but I fear the cost might be more than cutting and replacing, which is something I can do up to the level of work seen throughout this thread. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)
This is not a show car, it will continue being a regularly driven car with a fresh paint.

I do have a donner quarter I got from Bruce Stone. Unfortunately, it was cut a little shy on the back side but is probably manageable. Another option would be to get a whole fender from Vince and replace it but that involves dealing with the door, vent area, and sail.





So, should I get this fixed or should I cut and replace? If I do cut/replace, should I replace the whole fender to prevent the vertical scar in the middle?

Thank you for the inputs! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Luke M]

I've done both of these type of repairs. My brothers 914 did just that, section the rear q-panel. It was kinda of a pain to line things up just right. Took several tries but we did eventually get there. You can see where I cut and butt welded the panels together. Then cut for the flares. Getting the panels to mate just right is hard and it still doesn't look right. Bondo either way we look at it is gonna be the fix now. On my 6, I replaced the whole q-panel. It wasn't that much more work to do. Getting the panel off was the easy part. I cut off the panel then went back and removed the rest of the spot welds. Cut carefully in the targa area as you will cut into the inner support if you go too deep. If you can get your hands on a clean, rust free q-panel just replace it. Have you looked at your targa/door handle area yet? Mine looked great except it was filled with bondo over rust.

[Montreal914]

Thank you for the advice and pictures Luke. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

My door handle and sail area is in decent shape. My fear of replacing the whole quarter is dealing with the tubular vent in the door jamb and all of door edge alignment.

I am sure I can get a good condition quarter that would be cut beyond the mating surfaces. I can clean it up to the mating surface making it a "new" part to install.

So, from the three options initially mentioned, the current recommendation is:

1- Replace whole quarter
2- Replace partial quarter
3- Straighten whole panel - not commented

[Luke M]

Thank you for the advice and pictures Luke. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

My door handle and sail area is in decent shape. My fear of replacing the whole quarter is dealing with the tubular vent in the door jamb and all of door edge alignment.

I am sure I can get a good condition quarter that would be cut beyond the mating surfaces. I can clean it up to the mating surface making it a "new" part to install.

So, from the three options initially mentioned, the current recommendation is:

1- Replace whole quarter
2- Replace partial quarter
3- Straighten whole panel - not commented

The vent tube is not that hard to deal with. If you can get a full q-panel have it cut with that vent in place. When you get it trim the metal off it. On the chassis you cut that vent out there's only 2 welds holding it in place. Clean up the area and the new/used section will fit right in. It was pretty easy to do. I used a spot welder to install most of the q-panel then mig welded the areas that I couldn't reach with the spot welder. Replacing the whole panel also gives you access to the backside of the targa. You can clean up and spray epoxy to help future rust in there. On my brothers car I used eastwood internal frame coating in all of the hard to get areas. If you never used that stuff it comes with a long hose and a nozzle tip that sprays in a pattern. It coats pretty well.

[Montreal914]

So am I understanding that you keep the tube on the donner fender and join it to the body inside the cabin here? I have seen in another thread that you simply grind off the edge weld to free up the original tube.



Unfortunately, I don't have a spot weld, this will be a MIG plug weld operation. Yes, having all of that section open will definitely allow me to inspect and protect. I do have a can of Eastwood with the tube, thanks! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Luke M]

Correct. Keep the tube on the donor q-panel. Remove your old one and clean up the mating areas. The new tube should slide right into place then you can see where everything lines up on the chassis. I'll snap a few pics later on my 6 as it's still apart.

[Montreal914]

After removing the blower box and the wiper assembly, I have noticed this "custom" enlargement of an original hole about 5/8" dia. I notice there is one too at the same spot on the driver side.

Anyone knows the use of these hole? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

My car



Another project car

[Luke M]

After removing the blower box and the wiper assembly, I have noticed this "custom" enlargement of an original hole about 5/8" dia. I notice there is one too at the same spot on the driver side.

Anyone knows the use of these hole? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

My car



Another project car

I believe that's for the antenna wire. Here's pics of the fender air intake from my NOS panel.

[Montreal914]

@Luke M Antenna, humm seems like a good explanation. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

Thanks! This is very clear now as to how to tackle the fender vent area. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)

Those NOS panel... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif)

[Montreal914]

A little progress this weekend. I delicately removed the rest of the ventilation system in the front trunk, i.e. the selector valves and diffuser. I did leave them connected together by the actuator cables in hopes of easing the process upon reassembly. I will probably take them apart though to see what needs rebuild. No picture, sorry...

I also plugged the two holes that had been done on the passenger side door for a stock mirror. Clearly, the person who did this wasn't aware that the threaded plate is behind the door metal and instead, simply drilled in the door skin. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) No wonder why I was never able to tighten that mirror properly... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) In front of the now plugged holes are the ones I did a while back using a Dremel bit after drilling a 1/16" hole in the center. I took measurement references from the driver side door. Both of my 1/16" holes where close to the center void of the threaded plate. The rest was easy, carefully digging with a small burr. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sunglasses.gif)

Before:



After:




Finally, I moved on to finish the oil lines project. I fabricated a couple of brackets to support the front end of the aluminum rigid lines in the wheel well. Each bracket has an M6 nut welded on its back side allowing easy installation of the Abel clamp. Everything is now nicely secured. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)