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> no start after installing SS lines from Tangerine
dax1969
post Nov 13 2020, 08:08 AM
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Hi guys,

The car is a 1974 2.0 with fi, fuel pump mounted near the steering rack. The car has been reliable all summer but a couple of weeks ago the car wouldn't start at first. After a lot cranking she fired up but had to keep her running using the throttle. I limped home and there I noticed fuel pouring out at the front. After inspeciton I found a ruptured fuel line. I decided to order and install the SS fuel lines fm Tangerine. As it took a few weeks before they were here I cleaned and coated the tank.

Yesterday I installed the ss fuel lines and renewed all hoses with 30R9 ones near the tank and pump (the enginebay were already renewed with correct high pressure lines). After installing the lines, new fuel filter and hoses I poured a few liters in the tank and the car started right up. She idled for about 5 minutes and stalled. Assuming there was not enough fuel in the tank I poured in another 15 liter. As fm that time I couldn't get the car started properly. After a lot of trying/cranking she started up but stalled right away. It looked like the car did not get enough fuel or so. Others suggested kinked lines so I checked them again but they were all clear. Checked the lines in the engine room and the feed and return both contained fuel. As the fuel pump looked old I decided to install a new one and check the hoses once again. Changed the relay with one fm the headlights but no difference, no start.
After a lot of cranking the car starts for about 10 seconds... noticed that the fuel filter is only half full (no idea if this is normal or not). When I crawled back under the car I noticed a puddle of oil right under the oil filter... not a few drops but a puddle.

Could one relate to the other ? I am pretty sure that the SS lines and connections are ok but why isn't she starting ?

What I did notice is that the fuel pump (the old one and the new one) only gave me that typical buzz/whine when turning on the ignition once. My old pump made a buzzing noise going up and down and the new one started doing the same after a few attempts. I just managed to start her up again for 10 seconds and then I didn't even hear the pump. Inside the engine bay everything is dry, no leaks.

what else could I do/test ? Injectors ? I think I have a more serious problem now, seen the oil leak.

Thks yr feedback

krgds
Dax
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AZBanks
post Nov 13 2020, 08:47 AM
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I picked up a lot of crud in the fuel line when I pushed it through the tunnel. I replaced the fuel filter after running my car for a couple minutes. The old filter didn't look bad until I held it up next to a new filter.
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dax1969
post Nov 13 2020, 09:31 AM
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Thks. I taped off the lines before pushing them through
the tunnel. I can see minor black spots in the fuel filter,
can replace it and see if this solves my issue but I doubt it

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Dax
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Frankvw
post Nov 13 2020, 09:54 AM
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hate to ask : did you maybe switch the fuellines by mistake ?
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wndsrfr
post Nov 13 2020, 09:57 AM
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Maybe the circuit for fuel pump is not latching after the cranking signal stops. Try swapping the relay or hot wire the pump for a test.
Puddle of oil is a concern....check to see you have enough in the engine??
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iankarr
post Nov 13 2020, 10:12 AM
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Sounds like some fuel is getting through, but not enough. Dirty fuel sock in the tank... or kinks in the lines under the tank are two likely culprits.
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dax1969
post Nov 13 2020, 10:44 AM
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QUOTE(iankarr @ Nov 13 2020, 05:12 PM) *

Sounds like some fuel is getting through, but not enough. Dirty fuel sock in the tank... or kinks in the lines under the tank are two likely culprits.


New sock and 100 % sure no kinks.


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dax1969
post Nov 13 2020, 10:47 AM
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QUOTE(Frankvw @ Nov 13 2020, 04:54 PM) *

hate to ask : did you maybe switch the fuellines by mistake ?


That crossed my mind as this is the only thing I did not check again. Console and all other stuff is back in. What is the quickest and safest way to check this ? Don’t think that just switching the lines in the enginebay is a good idea. Btw can it run for a few seconds if the lines are switched ?
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dangrouche
post Nov 13 2020, 10:52 AM
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Fuel filter installed backwards?
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dax1969
post Nov 13 2020, 11:11 AM
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Fuel filter is hooked up correct
There is an arrow with flow and feed goes in on the smaller side, out to the pump goes via the bigger nipple

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dax1969
post Nov 13 2020, 11:17 AM
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Fuel feed in the engine bay is connected to the passenger fuel rail.
Took them off and replaced them one by one so should be ok. The
only thing I am thinking about now is that the steel lines somehow
crossed inside the tunnel. I couldn’t get them through the rubber grommet
so I took the grommet out, pushed the lines through and installed the grommet
again. Perhaps I screwed up there ? Now I can’t sleep tonight.
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falcor75
post Nov 13 2020, 12:03 PM
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Look down the fuel filler hole with a flashlight, how does the coating look, could something have gone bad and its dissolved and clogging the new sock?
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dax1969
post Nov 13 2020, 12:12 PM
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QUOTE(falcor75 @ Nov 13 2020, 07:03 PM) *

Look down the fuel filler hole with a flashlight, how does the coating look, could something have gone bad and its dissolved and clogging the new sock?


Coating looks fine and sock is new... today I pulled the tank again and blew feed and return. Good flow (and bad taste in my mouth ). Should have taken the sock out to inspect closer.

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mepstein
post Nov 13 2020, 12:32 PM
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QUOTE(dax1969 @ Nov 13 2020, 11:47 AM) *

QUOTE(Frankvw @ Nov 13 2020, 04:54 PM) *

hate to ask : did you maybe switch the fuellines by mistake ?


That crossed my mind as this is the only thing I did not check again. Console and all other stuff is back in. What is the quickest and safest way to check this ? Don’t think that just switching the lines in the enginebay is a good idea. Btw can it run for a few seconds if the lines are switched ?

Yes. A couple seconds of fuel in the engine lines.
I did not think it will hurt a thing to switch the lines to check.
It happens all the time with fuel line repairs.
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ndfrigi
post Nov 13 2020, 03:11 PM
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Here in the US we can borrow loaner tools from auto supply store like fuel pressure test kit. Maybe you can ask your auto supply store so you can test your fuel pressure/flow.
like above mentioned for kink, double check under the fuel tank which normally get kink after dropping the tank down. you can try to look at the round access below to check it.
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dax1969
post Nov 13 2020, 03:44 PM
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QUOTE(ndfrigi @ Nov 13 2020, 10:11 PM) *

Here in the US we can borrow loaner tools from auto supply store like fuel pressure test kit. Maybe you can ask your auto supply store so you can test your fuel pressure/flow.
like above mentioned for kink, double check under the fuel tank which normally get kink after dropping the tank down. you can try to look at the round access below to check it.


Perhaps I can get hold of such a kit. Never done it before so I have to ask where do you hook up the meter to test pressure on 2.0 ?
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ClayPerrine
post Nov 13 2020, 03:45 PM
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I recently saw a 356 that had a Megasquirt conversion on it. It would only run for maybe 5 minutes at idle, then it would quit.

The tank had been cleaned and coated a long time ago, and the coating peeled off the inside of the tank. It would get sucked up against the fuel pickup and starve the pump. Once the car was turned off, the coating would fall off the pickup, and it would start and run for another 5 minutes.

A new tank was installed, and that solved everything.

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ndfrigi
post Nov 13 2020, 04:12 PM
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QUOTE(dax1969 @ Nov 13 2020, 01:44 PM) *

QUOTE(ndfrigi @ Nov 13 2020, 10:11 PM) *

Here in the US we can borrow loaner tools from auto supply store like fuel pressure test kit. Maybe you can ask your auto supply store so you can test your fuel pressure/flow.
like above mentioned for kink, double check under the fuel tank which normally get kink after dropping the tank down. you can try to look at the round access below to check it.


Perhaps I can get hold of such a kit. Never done it before so I have to ask where do you hook up the meter to test pressure on 2.0 ?


Usually there should be in the middle of the driver side (#1 and #2 injector) fuel rail an option to connect it. Or buy a fuel pressure gauge and install it in the middle of the rubber fuel line between #4 and #2 injector.

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76-914
post Nov 13 2020, 08:30 PM
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Just loosen a hose clamp on both sides and turn the ign key to pressurize. Should be evident which is which. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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dax1969
post Nov 14 2020, 06:35 AM
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In my search to my issue I wiggled the wire of the cylinder head temp and the car fired right up but stalled after a few seconds. Could this be the issue ? Is this a critical part to keep the engine running ? I remember I bought one a while ago so it is best that I give it a try BUT how can you reach that thing ? It looks like a bunch of stuff in the way. Any advise ? Thks
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