Hi guys,

The car is a 1974 2.0 with fi, fuel pump mounted near the steering rack. The car has been reliable all summer but a couple of weeks ago the car wouldn't start at first. After a lot cranking she fired up but had to keep her running using the throttle. I limped home and there I noticed fuel pouring out at the front. After inspeciton I found a ruptured fuel line. I decided to order and install the SS fuel lines fm Tangerine. As it took a few weeks before they were here I cleaned and coated the tank.

Yesterday I installed the ss fuel lines and renewed all hoses with 30R9 ones near the tank and pump (the enginebay were already renewed with correct high pressure lines). After installing the lines, new fuel filter and hoses I poured a few liters in the tank and the car started right up. She idled for about 5 minutes and stalled. Assuming there was not enough fuel in the tank I poured in another 15 liter. As fm that time I couldn't get the car started properly. After a lot of trying/cranking she started up but stalled right away. It looked like the car did not get enough fuel or so. Others suggested kinked lines so I checked them again but they were all clear. Checked the lines in the engine room and the feed and return both contained fuel. As the fuel pump looked old I decided to install a new one and check the hoses once again. Changed the relay with one fm the headlights but no difference, no start.
After a lot of cranking the car starts for about 10 seconds... noticed that the fuel filter is only half full (no idea if this is normal or not). When I crawled back under the car I noticed a puddle of oil right under the oil filter... not a few drops but a puddle.

Could one relate to the other ? I am pretty sure that the SS lines and connections are ok but why isn't she starting ?

What I did notice is that the fuel pump (the old one and the new one) only gave me that typical buzz/whine when turning on the ignition once. My old pump made a buzzing noise going up and down and the new one started doing the same after a few attempts. I just managed to start her up again for 10 seconds and then I didn't even hear the pump. Inside the engine bay everything is dry, no leaks.

what else could I do/test ? Injectors ? I think I have a more serious problem now, seen the oil leak.

Thks yr feedback

krgds
Dax

I picked up a lot of crud in the fuel line when I pushed it through the tunnel. I replaced the fuel filter after running my car for a couple minutes. The old filter didn't look bad until I held it up next to a new filter.

Thks. I taped off the lines before pushing them through
the tunnel. I can see minor black spots in the fuel filter,
can replace it and see if this solves my issue but I doubt it

Thks yr reply
Dax

hate to ask : did you maybe switch the fuellines by mistake ?

Maybe the circuit for fuel pump is not latching after the cranking signal stops. Try swapping the relay or hot wire the pump for a test.
Puddle of oil is a concern....check to see you have enough in the engine??

Sounds like some fuel is getting through, but not enough. Dirty fuel sock in the tank... or kinks in the lines under the tank are two likely culprits.

New sock and 100 % sure no kinks.


Thks yr reply

That crossed my mind as this is the only thing I did not check again. Console and all other stuff is back in. What is the quickest and safest way to check this ? Don’t think that just switching the lines in the enginebay is a good idea. Btw can it run for a few seconds if the lines are switched ?

Fuel filter installed backwards?

Fuel filter is hooked up correct
There is an arrow with flow and feed goes in on the smaller side, out to the pump goes via the bigger nipple

Thks yr reply

Fuel feed in the engine bay is connected to the passenger fuel rail.
Took them off and replaced them one by one so should be ok. The
only thing I am thinking about now is that the steel lines somehow
crossed inside the tunnel. I couldn’t get them through the rubber grommet
so I took the grommet out, pushed the lines through and installed the grommet
again. Perhaps I screwed up there ? Now I can’t sleep tonight.

Look down the fuel filler hole with a flashlight, how does the coating look, could something have gone bad and its dissolved and clogging the new sock?

Coating looks fine and sock is new... today I pulled the tank again and blew feed and return. Good flow (and bad taste in my mouth ). Should have taken the sock out to inspect closer.

Thks yr feedback

Yes. A couple seconds of fuel in the engine lines.
I did not think it will hurt a thing to switch the lines to check.
It happens all the time with fuel line repairs.

Here in the US we can borrow loaner tools from auto supply store like fuel pressure test kit. Maybe you can ask your auto supply store so you can test your fuel pressure/flow.
like above mentioned for kink, double check under the fuel tank which normally get kink after dropping the tank down. you can try to look at the round access below to check it.

Perhaps I can get hold of such a kit. Never done it before so I have to ask where do you hook up the meter to test pressure on 2.0 ?

I recently saw a 356 that had a Megasquirt conversion on it. It would only run for maybe 5 minutes at idle, then it would quit.

The tank had been cleaned and coated a long time ago, and the coating peeled off the inside of the tank. It would get sucked up against the fuel pickup and starve the pump. Once the car was turned off, the coating would fall off the pickup, and it would start and run for another 5 minutes.

A new tank was installed, and that solved everything.

Usually there should be in the middle of the driver side (#1 and #2 injector) fuel rail an option to connect it. Or buy a fuel pressure gauge and install it in the middle of the rubber fuel line between #4 and #2 injector.

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Just loosen a hose clamp on both sides and turn the ign key to pressurize. Should be evident which is which.

In my search to my issue I wiggled the wire of the cylinder head temp and the car fired right up but stalled after a few seconds. Could this be the issue ? Is this a critical part to keep the engine running ? I remember I bought one a while ago so it is best that I give it a try BUT how can you reach that thing ? It looks like a bunch of stuff in the way. Any advise ? Thks

Could this be the issue ?
Yes, if the wire is disconnected or broken, it could.

how can you reach that thing ?
Use a deepsocket and put the wire of the CHT in the socket itself so it is not damaged.
You can also take a deepsocket you do not mind 'destroying' and cut a slot in the side where the wire can stick out from.

PS
There is a small copperring on it. You might loose it taking out the CHT and you do not notice, but you need it when re-installing a CHT (maybe your new CHT came with it)

If the cylinder head temp sender is disconnected, the system goes full rich because it thinks it is 40 below zero. So it definitely won't start.

The first thing I would do is to check the connection between the sender and the wire harness. The factory plugs are hard to get the spade connectors properly connected.

If you have to, replacing the sender is not that hard. I drilled a hole in the side of a socket to run the wire through, then I use it and an extension to r&r the sensor. But you can remove the intake runner and engine tin on that side if you just can't do it any other way.

Good luck!

Clay

You can also get a deep socket and coil the wire inside. No drilling or grinding needed.

Hope my guess is right and that the engine is getting too much fuel and floods. Think that the current one is already a replacement cause the wire is routed over the sparkplugcover and sticks out half out of the plastic connector.

Will give it try to replace it with a deep 13 mm socket. Noted that I have to be carefull not losing the copper ring.

I’ll report back soon

Thks yr feedback

Without a signal from the CHT sender it will flood out. Too rich to run.

UPDATE

Changed the fuel pump relay on the relay board once again. success !

How can a relay be faulty on the relay board but still works on the lights ?

Anyway, I am so happy that it had nothing to do (I knew it but still ...) with installing the SS fuel lines and that with a little help from the 914 world, google and fb the car starts again.

video?

I definitely need to buy a few good relays as spare

bye for now

Dax

Congratulations on solving that issue. Car starts up nice and easy and sounds great.

Great Danny ! enjoy the car !

Strong work

Hi guys,

Unfortunately my happiness didn't last. As you know I changed the relay on the relayboard twice, the second time (I also changed the 25 amp fuse) I finally managed to start the engine (several times).

Saturday I was ready for a testdrive. On turning the key I heard the familiar buzz of the fuel pump and the car started right up. Drove the car out of the garage and while I was closing the gate I heard the revs slowly going down. By the time I got to the car the engine died and I couldn't start anymore. I have been reading and searching and one thing I found was that the heater in the engine compartment could cause the fuse to blow.
During my waiting for the SS lines to arrive I indeed installed the heater in the engine as the PO took it out for some reason. So I assumed that caused my problem so I disconnected and took the heater out, replaced the fuses again and when I still had no luck I've put in two new relays (damn made in china but can't find any better here).

After the car stalled last saturday I once again hear the funny noise from the fuel pump and not the typical buzz. I think my problem is electrical (CHT was replaced last week).

What can cause my fuel pump to sound so weird (it is a new one btw) ? could it be a cracked/faulty relayboard ? After all my first attempt of changing the relay had no success... the second attempt (same relay) gave me a nice starting car for several times. Can the ignition switch cause this or is a faulty switch only causing a non start and not a car stalling ?

Does anybody see anything abnormal on the wiring of my relayboard (only touched it to change the relays and fuse, did not touch the wires).

Also close to the oil filler neck I spotted a white wire which is not connected. Cannot find where it should go so I don't think it was connected after all.
Fuel tank was cleaned, sealed, new sock .... hoses have been checked for kinks several times ...

note : I am still waiting for my fuel pressure gauge so did not check FP. Once again, car started several times and sounded good and drove it off my driveway.

Your help is always, highly appreciated

krgs
Dax

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hi,
so...to get to the question from the middle of your text:
"What can cause my fuel pump to sound so weird"
the only thing I can quickly think of to explain another sound than normal (the buzz) is the idea that it does not get fuel and spins without fuel (so dry)
Did you check if the fuel is actually getting to the pump and the fuelfilter in front of the pump is not backwards in line ? Does fuel pump out of the pump when you try to start ?

Hi Frank, I know there is only a bit of fuel in the tank ... my testdrive actually was to the gas station . I have no idea how many liters is sufficient but I will add some more fuel (if this would be the case then ).

I am pretty sure that the there is fuel going to the engine... as said I started the car several times over the last days, and drove her from my driveway (idled for + 5 minutes).

I'll report back

thks
Dax

That disconneted wire looks to be from your FI harness and could be from the spades grounds that are underneath the plenum.

If one of those is disconnected that could be your problem.

Tank is more than half full and still the pump makes the funny noise.

Will check if the white wire has to go to the plenum somewhere.