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> no start after installing SS lines from Tangerine
Frankvw
post Nov 14 2020, 06:45 AM
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Could this be the issue ?
Yes, if the wire is disconnected or broken, it could.

how can you reach that thing ?
Use a deepsocket and put the wire of the CHT in the socket itself so it is not damaged.
You can also take a deepsocket you do not mind 'destroying' and cut a slot in the side where the wire can stick out from.

PS
There is a small copperring on it. You might loose it taking out the CHT and you do not notice, but you need it when re-installing a CHT (maybe your new CHT came with it)
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ClayPerrine
post Nov 14 2020, 06:49 AM
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QUOTE(dax1969 @ Nov 14 2020, 06:35 AM) *

In my search to my issue I wiggled the wire of the cylinder head temp and the car fired right up but stalled after a few seconds. Could this be the issue ? Is this a critical part to keep the engine running ? I remember I bought one a while ago so it is best that I give it a try BUT how can you reach that thing ? It looks like a bunch of stuff in the way. Any advise ? Thks



If the cylinder head temp sender is disconnected, the system goes full rich because it thinks it is 40 below zero. So it definitely won't start.

The first thing I would do is to check the connection between the sender and the wire harness. The factory plugs are hard to get the spade connectors properly connected.

If you have to, replacing the sender is not that hard. I drilled a hole in the side of a socket to run the wire through, then I use it and an extension to r&r the sensor. But you can remove the intake runner and engine tin on that side if you just can't do it any other way.

Good luck!

Clay
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mepstein
post Nov 14 2020, 07:14 AM
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QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Nov 14 2020, 07:49 AM) *

QUOTE(dax1969 @ Nov 14 2020, 06:35 AM) *

In my search to my issue I wiggled the wire of the cylinder head temp and the car fired right up but stalled after a few seconds. Could this be the issue ? Is this a critical part to keep the engine running ? I remember I bought one a while ago so it is best that I give it a try BUT how can you reach that thing ? It looks like a bunch of stuff in the way. Any advise ? Thks



If the cylinder head temp sender is disconnected, the system goes full rich because it thinks it is 40 below zero. So it definitely won't start.

The first thing I would do is to check the connection between the sender and the wire harness. The factory plugs are hard to get the spade connectors properly connected.

If you have to, replacing the sender is not that hard. I drilled a hole in the side of a socket to run the wire through, then I use it and an extension to r&r the sensor. But you can remove the intake runner and engine tin on that side if you just can't do it any other way.

Good luck!

Clay

You can also get a deep socket and coil the wire inside. No drilling or grinding needed.
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dax1969
post Nov 14 2020, 10:05 AM
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Hope my guess is right and that the engine is getting too much fuel and floods. Think that the current one is already a replacement cause the wire is routed over the sparkplugcover and sticks out half out of the plastic connector.

Will give it try to replace it with a deep 13 mm socket. Noted that I have to be carefull not losing the copper ring.

I’ll report back soon

Thks yr feedback
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76-914
post Nov 14 2020, 12:32 PM
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QUOTE(dax1969 @ Nov 14 2020, 04:35 AM) *

In my search to my issue I wiggled the wire of the cylinder head temp and the car fired right up but stalled after a few seconds. Could this be the issue ? Is this a critical part to keep the engine running ? I remember I bought one a while ago so it is best that I give it a try BUT how can you reach that thing ? It looks like a bunch of stuff in the way. Any advise ? Thks

Without a signal from the CHT sender it will flood out. Too rich to run. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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dax1969
post Nov 18 2020, 04:29 AM
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UPDATE

Changed the fuel pump relay on the relay board once again. success !

How can a relay be faulty on the relay board but still works on the lights ?

Anyway, I am so happy that it had nothing to do (I knew it but still ...) with installing the SS fuel lines and that with a little help from the 914 world, google and fb the car starts again.

video?

I definitely need to buy a few good relays as spare

bye for now

Dax
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Cairo94507
post Nov 18 2020, 07:59 AM
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Congratulations on solving that issue. Car starts up nice and easy and sounds great. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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Frankvw
post Nov 18 2020, 08:58 AM
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Great Danny ! enjoy the car !
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Coondog
post Nov 18 2020, 09:25 AM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Strong work (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)
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dax1969
post Nov 23 2020, 08:07 AM
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Hi guys,

Unfortunately my happiness didn't last. As you know I changed the relay on the relayboard twice, the second time (I also changed the 25 amp fuse) I finally managed to start the engine (several times).

Saturday I was ready for a testdrive. On turning the key I heard the familiar buzz of the fuel pump and the car started right up. Drove the car out of the garage and while I was closing the gate I heard the revs slowly going down. By the time I got to the car the engine died and I couldn't start anymore. I have been reading and searching and one thing I found was that the heater in the engine compartment could cause the fuse to blow.
During my waiting for the SS lines to arrive I indeed installed the heater in the engine as the PO took it out for some reason. So I assumed that caused my problem so I disconnected and took the heater out, replaced the fuses again and when I still had no luck I've put in two new relays (damn made in china but can't find any better here).

After the car stalled last saturday I once again hear the funny noise from the fuel pump and not the typical buzz. I think my problem is electrical (CHT was replaced last week).

What can cause my fuel pump to sound so weird (it is a new one btw) ? could it be a cracked/faulty relayboard ? After all my first attempt of changing the relay had no success... the second attempt (same relay) gave me a nice starting car for several times. Can the ignition switch cause this or is a faulty switch only causing a non start and not a car stalling ?

Does anybody see anything abnormal on the wiring of my relayboard (only touched it to change the relays and fuse, did not touch the wires).

Also close to the oil filler neck I spotted a white wire which is not connected. Cannot find where it should go so I don't think it was connected after all.
Fuel tank was cleaned, sealed, new sock .... hoses have been checked for kinks several times ...

note : I am still waiting for my fuel pressure gauge so did not check FP. Once again, car started several times and sounded good and drove it off my driveway.

Your help is always, highly appreciated

krgs
Dax

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Frankvw
post Nov 23 2020, 09:04 AM
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hi,
so...to get to the question from the middle of your text:
"What can cause my fuel pump to sound so weird"
the only thing I can quickly think of to explain another sound than normal (the buzz) is the idea that it does not get fuel and spins without fuel (so dry)
Did you check if the fuel is actually getting to the pump and the fuelfilter in front of the pump is not backwards in line ? Does fuel pump out of the pump when you try to start ?
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dax1969
post Nov 23 2020, 09:40 AM
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QUOTE(Frankvw @ Nov 23 2020, 04:04 PM) *

hi,
so...to get to the question from the middle of your text:
"What can cause my fuel pump to sound so weird"
the only thing I can quickly think of to explain another sound than normal (the buzz) is the idea that it does not get fuel and spins without fuel (so dry)
Did you check if the fuel is actually getting to the pump and the fuelfilter in front of the pump is not backwards in line ? Does fuel pump out of the pump when you try to start ?


Hi Frank, I know there is only a bit of fuel in the tank ... my testdrive actually was to the gas station (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) . I have no idea how many liters is sufficient but I will add some more fuel (if this would be the case then (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) ).

I am pretty sure that the there is fuel going to the engine... as said I started the car several times over the last days, and drove her from my driveway (idled for + 5 minutes).

I'll report back

thks
Dax
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914_teener
post Nov 23 2020, 10:14 AM
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That disconneted wire looks to be from your FI harness and could be from the spades grounds that are underneath the plenum.

If one of those is disconnected that could be your problem.

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dax1969
post Nov 23 2020, 12:00 PM
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Tank is more than half full and still the pump makes the funny noise.

Will check if the white wire has to go to the plenum somewhere.
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